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HDR Halos in CS4

 
 
darkman
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      09-08-2011, 10:39 PM
This will probably start a thread, but hey, the more the merrier.

After I process landscape images in Photomatix Pro, I open the HDR's in
Photoshop CS4 to to deal with the prominent halos in skies above trees
and buildings. I could back off on HDR's Strength or boosting Smoothing,
but that defeats why I'm using HDR in the first place. If I try cloning
out the halos in Darken blend mode, the results are blotchy, and Darken
tends to 'leak' and gray the edge of the horizon/ trees, buildings. I've
tried selecting the sky with Color Range, Magic Wand, and even Topaz
Remask, putting the problem area on its own layer and hammering away at
it there. The blotch problem stays.

I envy the HDR images I see where here are zero halos, but they never
explain how they got rid of them. What's the best way? Thanks in advance.

 
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Carrie
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      09-08-2011, 11:31 PM

"darkman" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:mubaq.11881$(E-Mail Removed)...
> This will probably start a thread, but hey, the more the merrier.
>
> After I process landscape images in Photomatix Pro, I open the HDR's in
> Photoshop CS4 to to deal with the prominent halos in skies above trees and
> buildings. I could back off on HDR's Strength or boosting Smoothing, but
> that defeats why I'm using HDR in the first place. If I try cloning out
> the halos in Darken blend mode, the results are blotchy, and Darken tends
> to 'leak' and gray the edge of the horizon/ trees, buildings. I've tried
> selecting the sky with Color Range, Magic Wand, and even Topaz Remask,
> putting the problem area on its own layer and hammering away at it there.
> The blotch problem stays.
>
> I envy the HDR images I see where here are zero halos, but they never
> explain how they got rid of them. What's the best way? Thanks in advance.
>


Is this anything useful?
http://www.ghawkinsphotos.com/downlo...otoshop_P1.pdf
I have no idea what you are talking about (just when I think I know
something about PS (LOL) so looked around via google.



 
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Kele
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      09-09-2011, 02:00 AM
Everything I learned about the subject is here:
http://www.stuckincustoms.com/hdr-tutorial/

Watch the video on the linked page... lighting affects, white point. In the
text tutorial, Trey talks about ghosting and how he controls it.

Hopefully, you have a fast connection. I wish my computer was as fast as
Trey's.

Also, if you erase the top layer with HDR applied to show the non-HDR copy
below, you can selectively reduce the HDR affect.

I use HDR software almost always to adjust the image lighting. I've been
able to be more subtle at applying HDR processing now - resulting in less
ghosting and still get a good image pop. I use less or no flash more often
now when taking pictures because I know HDR processing can pull more light
from shadow. I can save poorly taken photos with HDR. Try to work on a
large image size; there will be less ghosting imo.

Treys favorite HDR software is the best for true multi-image HDR, but not as
a Photoshop plug-in because it requires 32bit processing and flattening the
image. Redynamix is almost as good as Photomatix without the in-Photoshop
bit depth restrictions. Both work on a single photo.


 
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Savageduck
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      09-09-2011, 03:26 AM
On 2011-09-08 19:00:36 -0700, "Kele" <(E-Mail Removed)> said:

> Everything I learned about the subject is here:
> http://www.stuckincustoms.com/hdr-tutorial/
>
> Watch the video on the linked page... lighting affects, white point. In the
> text tutorial, Trey talks about ghosting and how he controls it.
>
> Hopefully, you have a fast connection. I wish my computer was as fast as
> Trey's.
>
> Also, if you erase the top layer with HDR applied to show the non-HDR copy
> below, you can selectively reduce the HDR affect.
>
> I use HDR software almost always to adjust the image lighting. I've been
> able to be more subtle at applying HDR processing now - resulting in less
> ghosting and still get a good image pop. I use less or no flash more often
> now when taking pictures because I know HDR processing can pull more light
> from shadow. I can save poorly taken photos with HDR. Try to work on a
> large image size; there will be less ghosting imo.
>
> Treys favorite HDR software is the best for true multi-image HDR, but not as
> a Photoshop plug-in because it requires 32bit processing and flattening the
> image. Redynamix is almost as good as Photomatix without the in-Photoshop
> bit depth restrictions. Both work on a single photo.


I am currently using NIK HDR Efex Pro which has among its tools the
ability to reduce halos, along with a few different levels and types of
ghost correction.
< ttps://www.niksoftware.com/hdrefexpro/usa/entry.php >

Here is a comparison of a 5 exposure -2, -1, 0, +1, +2 HDR processed
with HDR Efex Pro, against the "0" adjust shot.
< http://homepage.mac.com/lco/filechute/HDR-MB62-comp.jpg >


--
Regards,

Savageduck

 
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Kele
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      09-10-2011, 11:31 PM
Bracketing capable camera? Nice comparison; the HDR is pushed hard and
isn't glowing. Look at the chain spool fwd deck - pulled from xtreme
shadow. I'm addicted to HDR.

I didn't know Nik made one too; thanks.


 
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Savageduck
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      09-11-2011, 01:59 AM
On 2011-09-10 16:31:11 -0700, "Kele" <(E-Mail Removed)> said:

> Bracketing capable camera?


The camera is a D300s.
With that I can shoot 3, 5, 7, & 9 shot brackets, at +- 0.3, +- 0.7, &
+- 1.0 intervals.

> Nice comparison; the HDR is pushed hard and
> isn't glowing. Look at the chain spool fwd deck - pulled from xtreme
> shadow. I'm addicted to HDR.
>
> I didn't know Nik made one too; thanks.



--
Regards,

Savageduck

 
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Savageduck
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      09-11-2011, 02:08 AM
On 2011-09-10 16:31:11 -0700, "Kele" <(E-Mail Removed)> said:

> Bracketing capable camera? Nice comparison; the HDR is pushed hard and
> isn't glowing. Look at the chain spool fwd deck - pulled from xtreme
> shadow. I'm addicted to HDR.
>
> I didn't know Nik made one too; thanks.


BTW: here is a more extreme example of lifting detail in the shadows.
This is also a 5 exposure bracket with +-1 interval.
< http://homepage.mac.com/lco/filechut...HDR-compW2.jpg >


--
Regards,

Savageduck

 
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John J Stafford
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      09-11-2011, 02:30 AM
Do not let the aperture change between shots. That is bound to bring out
differences in renditions unless you have one spendy APO diffraction
limited lens.
 
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Savageduck
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      09-11-2011, 02:56 AM
On 2011-09-10 19:30:14 -0700, John J Stafford <(E-Mail Removed)> said:

> Do not let the aperture change between shots. That is bound to bring out
> differences in renditions unless you have one spendy APO diffraction
> limited lens.




I shoot aperture priority and let the D300s make the exposure
adjustment with the bracketing. The lens was a Nikkor 18-200mm VRII.
So in the example I posted you will find the following exposure set up;
All 5 shots are @ f/4.0 ISO 200.
The five bracketed shots (-2, -1, 0, +1, +2) have the following shutter speeds.
1/3200, 1/1600, 1/800, 1/400, & 1/200

--
Regards,

Savageduck

 
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Johan W. Elzenga
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      09-11-2011, 08:31 AM
John J Stafford <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
> Do not let the aperture change between shots. That is bound to bring out
> differences in renditions unless you have one spendy APO diffraction
> limited lens.


It is going to bring out differences with any lens, because you change the
depth of field between the shots if you change the aperture.

--
Johan W. Elzenga, Editor/Photographer, www.johanfoto.com
 
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