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I'm using HC-110 and carefully following instructions, yet my negatives keep
coming out with too much contrast. I've tried carefully controlling my
temperature and minimizing agitation, yet I find the negatives difficult to
print in most cases--it's always highlights or shadows, highlights or
shadows. (Sometimes I end up scanning twice and combining in photoshop.)
Do I simply need to try five minutes instead of six, or what's going on
here?
Yes, I'm a newbie, relatively speaking (two years self-taught, darkroom the
size of a walk in closet). Thanks.

--
Regards,
Matt Clara
www.mattclara.com

Matt Clara wrote:
>
> I'm using HC-110 and carefully following instructions, yet my negatives keep
> coming out with too much contrast. I've tried carefully controlling my
> temperature and minimizing agitation, yet I find the negatives difficult to
> print in most cases--it's always highlights or shadows, highlights or
> shadows. (Sometimes I end up scanning twice and combining in photoshop.)
> Do I simply need to try five minutes instead of six, or what's going on
> here?
> Yes, I'm a newbie, relatively speaking (two years self-taught, darkroom the
> size of a walk in closet). Thanks.

Highlights or shadows what, exactly? Too dense is too
dense. You're overexposing or overdeveloping. Or both.
The relationship between exposure and development is
reciprocal, and the exposure index (i.e., film speed)
changes depending on development.

Might want to reseach basic film sensitometry, i.e., do
some step wedge testing and draw some film curves (see
Davis, Beyond the Zone System.) A normal contrast negative
(normal CI) that prints on a grade 2 or 3 isn't arrived at
by chance. Photoshop can't cure it. In fact it might be
useful if you made some actual photographs. Nutshell, you
can simply reduce development times and/or reduce exposure
(increase you film speed) but you'd still just be guessing.

In article <zgOlf.258369$(E-Mail Removed)>,
"Matt Clara" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

> I'm using HC-110 and carefully following instructions, yet my negatives keep
> coming out with too much contrast. I've tried carefully controlling my
> temperature and minimizing agitation, yet I find the negatives difficult to
> print in most cases--it's always highlights or shadows, highlights or
> shadows. (Sometimes I end up scanning twice and combining in photoshop.)
> Do I simply need to try five minutes instead of six, or what's going on
> here?
> Yes, I'm a newbie, relatively speaking (two years self-taught, darkroom the
> size of a walk in closet). Thanks.

Dilution? If your using B its a bad idea.
--
"To announce that there must be no criticism of the President,
or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong,
is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable
to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918

www.gregblankphoto(dot)com

"Gregory Blank" <greg@greg_____photo.com> wrote in message
news:greg-(E-Mail Removed)...
> In article <zgOlf.258369$(E-Mail Removed)>,
> "Matt Clara" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>
>> I'm using HC-110 and carefully following instructions, yet my negatives
>> keep
>> coming out with too much contrast. I've tried carefully controlling my
>> temperature and minimizing agitation, yet I find the negatives difficult
>> to
>> print in most cases--it's always highlights or shadows, highlights or
>> shadows. (Sometimes I end up scanning twice and combining in photoshop.)
>> Do I simply need to try five minutes instead of six, or what's going on
>> here?
>> Yes, I'm a newbie, relatively speaking (two years self-taught, darkroom
>> the
>> size of a walk in closet). Thanks.
>
> Dilution? If your using B its a bad idea.

I am using B. What do you recommend? Perhaps a different developer?

--
Regards,
Matt Clara
www.mattclara.com

Try Paterson FX-39 1+17 for 8 minutes.


Matt Clara wrote:
> "Gregory Blank" <greg@greg_____photo.com> wrote in message
> news:greg-(E-Mail Removed)...
> > In article <zgOlf.258369$(E-Mail Removed)>,
> > "Matt Clara" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
> >
> >> I'm using HC-110 and carefully following instructions, yet my negatives
> >> keep
> >> coming out with too much contrast. I've tried carefully controlling my
> >> temperature and minimizing agitation, yet I find the negatives difficult
> >> to
> >> print in most cases--it's always highlights or shadows, highlights or
> >> shadows. (Sometimes I end up scanning twice and combining in photoshop.)
> >> Do I simply need to try five minutes instead of six, or what's going on
> >> here?
> >> Yes, I'm a newbie, relatively speaking (two years self-taught, darkroom
> >> the
> >> size of a walk in closet). Thanks.
> >
> > Dilution? If your using B its a bad idea.
>
> I am using B. What do you recommend? Perhaps a different developer?
>
> --
> Regards,
> Matt Clara
> www.mattclara.com

In article <DDWlf.267014$(E-Mail Removed)>,
"Matt Clara" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

> "Gregory Blank" <greg@greg_____photo.com> wrote in message
> news:greg-(E-Mail Removed)...
> > In article <zgOlf.258369$(E-Mail Removed)>,
> > "Matt Clara" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
> >
> >> I'm using HC-110 and carefully following instructions, yet my negatives
> >> keep
> >> coming out with too much contrast. I've tried carefully controlling my
> >> temperature and minimizing agitation, yet I find the negatives difficult
> >> to
> >> print in most cases--it's always highlights or shadows, highlights or
> >> shadows. (Sometimes I end up scanning twice and combining in photoshop.)
> >> Do I simply need to try five minutes instead of six, or what's going on
> >> here?
> >> Yes, I'm a newbie, relatively speaking (two years self-taught, darkroom
> >> the
> >> size of a walk in closet). Thanks.
> >
> > Dilution? If your using B its a bad idea.
>
> I am using B. What do you recommend? Perhaps a different developer?

HC 110 is a great teaching device and a developer that is very clean
working, using the 1+11 dilution is better IMop because you can do
time adjustments with a longer starting time. I do use this dilution,
but there are two other developers I personally prefer:

D23 and Pmk. D23 being extremely easy to mix. Hc110 you can get away
with putting your hands in- though I don't recommend it. These other two
you will need gloves.

The main problem I see with Hc110 B dil - is the developer is hot at
that dilution- and is recommended for students because under exposures
and developments would ward off people from learning darkroom and
spending money. If you try the 1+11 you might test it at about 70F and
7-11 minutes depending on agitation. If the negative looks too dense at
those you can still clip off 2 minutes or more and be above the five
minute uneven development dilemma.
--
"To announce that there must be no criticism of the President,
or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong,
is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable
to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918

www.gregblankphoto(dot)com

"Matt Clara" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote

> I'm using HC-110 and carefully following instructions, yet my negatives keep
> coming out with too much contrast.

You don't mention a format. Is it 35mm?

Lots of contrast is what HC-110 does. And lots of contrast is what
T/Delta grain films do when slightly overdeveloped.

One fix is a lower contrast subject. Not that flip an answer -
when you have a really flat subject this combination may work
well for you.

The other fix would be to try using Microdol-X. I use it 1:3
because I am cheap.

If your subject is really contrasty try overexposing
by one stop and underdeveloping by ~25%: ye olde 'N-1'.

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com
Fstop timer - http://www.nolindan.com/da/fstop/index.htm

"Matt Clara" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:zgOlf.258369$(E-Mail Removed) ...
> I'm using HC-110 and carefully following instructions, yet my negatives
> keep coming out with too much contrast. I've tried carefully controlling
> my temperature and minimizing agitation, yet I find the negatives
> difficult to print in most cases--it's always highlights or shadows,
> highlights or shadows. (Sometimes I end up scanning twice and combining
> in photoshop.) Do I simply need to try five minutes instead of six, or
> what's going on here?
> Yes, I'm a newbie, relatively speaking (two years self-taught, darkroom
> the size of a walk in closet). Thanks.
>

Plan A:
If you want to mix your own I'd go with D-23

I've been preaching D-23D to anyone who will listen. Say AMEN! See, "Divided
D-23, The Perfect Film Developer. Camera Arts, Sept. 1989. pp 12-15.
Time/temp not critical, works every time. Very economical; good for at least
a dozen rolls. For even development roll the tank gently 10s/min. No,
technically speaking for the purists it's not a "true" divided developer but
bascially works that way. Start with 4min in A & B. Adjust the the A time
depending on results; more time = more contrast.

The look of D-76 1:1 with less tendency to block highlights which makes it
great for T-Max/Delta films.

To make 1 qt each:

A:
Metol 7.5 grams (2 1/4 tsp)
Sodium Sulfite 100 grams (4 Tbs + 1 1/4 tsp)

B:
Sodium Carbonate (anh) 1 tsp OR 1 Tbs. Arm and Hammer Washing Soda

OR for lower contrast/grain use this Solution B:

Borax 18 grams (1 Tbs + 1 tsp)
--------------------------

Plan B:
If you want prepackaged I'd go with D-76 1+1; it's pretty much the standard.
Remember, recommended time/temps are starting points. Do a quick easy clip
test. Shoot a roll of ISO 100 at f16, 1/125 on a sunny day at noonish of
typical subjects (people, buildings, etc). Clip off maybe 12" and develop.
Adjust development accordingly.

Natural Light Black and White Photography
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze76ane/
-George-

HC110 is a commercial developer, not something you want for fine grain.
FX-39 1+ 17 for 8 minutes, is, I tell you, glorious.



Matt Clara wrote:
> I'm using HC-110 and carefully following instructions, yet my negatives keep
> coming out with too much contrast. I've tried carefully controlling my
> temperature and minimizing agitation, yet I find the negatives difficult to
> print in most cases--it's always highlights or shadows, highlights or
> shadows. (Sometimes I end up scanning twice and combining in photoshop.)
> Do I simply need to try five minutes instead of six, or what's going on
> here?
> Yes, I'm a newbie, relatively speaking (two years self-taught, darkroom the
> size of a walk in closet). Thanks.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Matt Clara
> www.mattclara.com

Matt Clara <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
: I'm using HC-110 and carefully following instructions, yet my negatives keep
: coming out with too much contrast. I've tried carefully controlling my
: temperature and minimizing agitation, yet I find the negatives difficult to
: print in most cases--it's always highlights or shadows, highlights or
: shadows. (Sometimes I end up scanning twice and combining in photoshop.)
: Do I simply need to try five minutes instead of six, or what's going on
: here?
: Yes, I'm a newbie, relatively speaking (two years self-taught, darkroom the
: size of a walk in closet). Thanks.

Matt,

I've gotten very good results developing Delta-100 with Infotek(?) DDX. I
diluted it 1+9, developed at 75F and as always used it one shot.

--




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