Re: anyone experiences with the efke 25 asa BW film?

Jeff Novick wrote:

> Craig Shroeder just reminded me of what I was getting. Emulsion lift offs
> similar to pinholes but not pinholes and what you would normally call flare.
> It would only happen using Efke25. If I switched to PanF+, which I happened
> to do, they would disappear. Same lighting conditions (studio), and
> camera/lens combo. Very strange and disappointing as I liked the film.

For Efke 25, do not use acid like alcoholic vinegar, nor any other
chemical in a washing water to cut developing process.

If your favourite developer contains any kind of sodium to add to
alcalinity, in contact with a chemical which cuts developing in a
water for washing, a process of forming carbon dioxyde [CO2] will
be initiated, and CO2 will form bubles between a plastic tape and
emulsion. If there is too much acid in a water for washing, and
developer is rich with sodium, CO2 will even make a little hole in
the emulsion.

Instead of using chemicals to cut developing process, pull out the
film out of a developer a bit earlier, wash the film in a destiled
water three times. Leave the film for 2 minutes in a third water.
Only after a real good washing in a destiled H2O put the film in a
fixer.

> Jeff
> "Aaron van de Sande" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> news:(E-Mail Removed) om...
> > What kind of artifacts are you talking about? Efke film is very soft
> > and succeptable to scratching and reticulation.
> >
> > --Aaron
> >
> > "Jeff Novick" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> news:<nuP89.4763$(E-Mail Removed) igy.com>...
> > > It occurred more than once and it was within the last 6 months.
> > >
> > > Jeff
> > >
> > > "Willie wjb" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> > > news:3d639285$0$29785$(E-Mail Removed)...
> > > > If this is so, i wouldn't use the film.
> > > > Did it occured once or more than once?
> > > > And was is long time ago or not?
> > > >
> > > > > I also question Efke's quality control. I have seen strange
> artifacts on
> > > > > their film which cannot be explained by my developing habits. While
> I
> like
> > > > > the film, I don't trust it as I do other films.
> > > > >
> > > > > Jeff
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
>
>
>
>





Fotke

It's an old fashioned thin layer emulsion and unhardened in manufacturer,
so extremely intolerant to temp or pH change. We forget how lucky we are
with modern films now.

With carefull handling Adox (EFKE) 25 will out perform virtually all modern
multi layer films. Especially when processed in Adax Borax MQ film dev !

Ian
"Fotke" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message news:3F138EAC.2BCA5CF@localhost...
> Jeff Novick wrote:
>
> > Craig Shroeder just reminded me of what I was getting. Emulsion lift
offs
> > similar to pinholes but not pinholes and what you would normally call
flare.
> > It would only happen using Efke25. If I switched to PanF+, which I
happened
> > to do, they would disappear. Same lighting conditions (studio), and
> > camera/lens combo. Very strange and disappointing as I liked the film.
>
> For Efke 25, do not use acid like alcoholic vinegar, nor any other
> chemical in a washing water to cut developing process.
>
> If your favourite developer contains any kind of sodium to add to
> alcalinity, in contact with a chemical which cuts developing in a
> water for washing, a process of forming carbon dioxyde [CO2] will
> be initiated, and CO2 will form bubles between a plastic tape and
> emulsion. If there is too much acid in a water for washing, and
> developer is rich with sodium, CO2 will even make a little hole in
> the emulsion.
>
> Instead of using chemicals to cut developing process, pull out the
> film out of a developer a bit earlier, wash the film in a destiled
> water three times. Leave the film for 2 minutes in a third water.
> Only after a real good washing in a destiled H2O put the film in a
> fixer.
>
> > Jeff
> > "Aaron van de Sande" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> > news:(E-Mail Removed) om...
> > > What kind of artifacts are you talking about? Efke film is very soft
> > > and succeptable to scratching and reticulation.
> > >
> > > --Aaron
> > >
> > > "Jeff Novick" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> > news:<nuP89.4763$(E-Mail Removed) igy.com>...
> > > > It occurred more than once and it was within the last 6 months.
> > > >
> > > > Jeff
> > > >
> > > > "Willie wjb" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> > > > news:3d639285$0$29785$(E-Mail Removed)...
> > > > > If this is so, i wouldn't use the film.
> > > > > Did it occured once or more than once?
> > > > > And was is long time ago or not?
> > > > >
> > > > > > I also question Efke's quality control. I have seen strange
> > artifacts on
> > > > > > their film which cannot be explained by my developing habits.
While
> > I
> > like
> > > > > > the film, I don't trust it as I do other films.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Jeff
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>

In article <3F138EAC.2BCA5CF@localhost>, Fotke wrote:

> If your favourite developer contains any kind of sodium to add to
> alcalinity, in contact with a chemical which cuts developing in a
> water for washing, a process of forming carbon dioxyde [CO2] will
> be initiated, and CO2 will form bubles between a plastic tape and
> emulsion. If there is too much acid in a water for washing, and
> developer is rich with sodium, CO2 will even make a little hole in
> the emulsion.

I haven't used it in almost 7 years, but I was using ADOX KB14 through
EFKE KB25* from 1968 until 1996 developing it in Edwal FG-7 1:15 (water)
and an acid stop bath (1oz 28% acetic acid to 1 quart of water) and
never had a problem.

I wish I could get my hands on it now. The cost of sending it from
Europe or the U.S. to here (Israel) would almost equal the price, and
the chance of it not getting X-rayed would be pretty low.

Also I have not seen FG-7 in any of the stores here. I know Falcon sold
the line of chemicals to someone else. Is it still made? Anyone in
Europe see it?

Geoff.

* Originaly the film was manufactured in Germany by Adox as KB14 (cinema
film DIN 14). Adox changed their name to Orwo and sold the film to EFKE
who renamed it to KB25 to accomodate the ISO standard (ISO 25 = DIN 14).
The film was esentialy unchanged.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson (E-Mail Removed) 972-54-608-069
Do sysadmins count networked sheep?

Efke 25 available from USA www.jandcphoto.com
But he imports it from Europe

From Europe I believe Fotoimpex in Germany has it.


In article <(E-Mail Removed)>, (E-Mail Removed) wrote:

> I haven't used it in almost 7 years, but I was using ADOX KB14 through
> EFKE KB25* from 1968 until 1996 developing it in Edwal FG-7 1:15 (water)
> and an acid stop bath (1oz 28% acetic acid to 1 quart of water) and
> never had a problem.
>
> I wish I could get my hands on it now. The cost of sending it from
> Europe or the U.S. to here (Israel) would almost equal the price, and
> the chance of it not getting X-rayed would be pretty low.
>
> Also I have not seen FG-7 in any of the stores here. I know Falcon sold
> the line of chemicals to someone else. Is it still made? Anyone in
> Europe see it?
>
> Geoff.

--
Check out My Homepage at
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~gblank

Support bacteria - they're the only culture
some people have." -Stephen Wright

I've been using Efke roll and sheet films, especially the 25, for a
long time. I used to see problems 4-5 years ago. I have not seen any
defects since they moved their factory out of Zagreb. Rodinal at 1:100
is fantastic as is ABC Pyro with the sheet films. They are my favorite
films.

"John" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed)...
> On 15 Jul 2003 20:53:30 -0700, (E-Mail Removed) (Brian Weiss) wrote:
>
> >I've been using Efke roll and sheet films, especially the 25, for a
> >long time. I used to see problems 4-5 years ago. I have not seen any
> >defects since they moved their factory out of Zagreb. Rodinal at 1:100
> >is fantastic as is ABC Pyro with the sheet films. They are my favorite
> >films.
>
> Sheet films ? If so have you also tried using a anti-static brush to
> remove any dust from the films ?
>
> Regards
>
> John S. Douglas, Photographer
> http://www.darkroompro.com

John, I've tried every imaginable cure except Voodoo. Aside from
transparency film in general, all my black and white sheet film suffers from
dust. The slower films seem to be the worst, and, Efke is the slowest and
worst. I've even taken the suggestion of going into the bathroom, steaming
it up, and, loading the film. Better, but, not complete success.

I don't shoot anything larger than 120 but I will say that I have a
Sharper Image Ionic Breeze "desktop" ionizer thing in my darkroom as
well as several bigger models in my house and I never, ever, ever,
ever have dust problems.

Some say that all those things do is kick up dust, which is probably a
little true until the dust is *gone*. It runs 24/7, whisper quiet-
etc. Just a thought- they aren't cheap. Of course not, it says
"Sharper Image" on it. I paid about $250 for the desktop model which
nicely fits anywhere in even a small darkroom. They *do* work for
keeping the air clean- which is to sort-of to imply that you wouldn't
have dust on your film after running it for a while.

Also- You should try a lint roller to get the dust off. No, just
kidding. Really.




On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 03:35:36 GMT, "Jeff Novick" <(E-Mail Removed)>
wrote:

>
>"John" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
>news:(E-Mail Removed).. .
>> On 15 Jul 2003 20:53:30 -0700, (E-Mail Removed) (Brian Weiss) wrote:
>>
>> >I've been using Efke roll and sheet films, especially the 25, for a
>> >long time. I used to see problems 4-5 years ago. I have not seen any
>> >defects since they moved their factory out of Zagreb. Rodinal at 1:100
>> >is fantastic as is ABC Pyro with the sheet films. They are my favorite
>> >films.
>>
>> Sheet films ? If so have you also tried using a anti-static brush to
>> remove any dust from the films ?
>>
>> Regards
>>
>> John S. Douglas, Photographer
>> http://www.darkroompro.com
>
>John, I've tried every imaginable cure except Voodoo. Aside from
>transparency film in general, all my black and white sheet film suffers from
>dust. The slower films seem to be the worst, and, Efke is the slowest and
>worst. I've even taken the suggestion of going into the bathroom, steaming
>it up, and, loading the film. Better, but, not complete success.
>

Cheers,
-sd
http://www.zoom.sh

"Some Dude" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed)...
> I don't shoot anything larger than 120 but I will say that I have a
> Sharper Image Ionic Breeze "desktop" ionizer thing in my darkroom as
> well as several bigger models in my house and I never, ever, ever,
> ever have dust problems.
>
> Some say that all those things do is kick up dust, which is probably a
> little true until the dust is *gone*. It runs 24/7, whisper quiet-
> etc. Just a thought- they aren't cheap. Of course not, it says
> "Sharper Image" on it. I paid about $250 for the desktop model which
> nicely fits anywhere in even a small darkroom. They *do* work for
> keeping the air clean- which is to sort-of to imply that you wouldn't
> have dust on your film after running it for a while.
>
> Also- You should try a lint roller to get the dust off. No, just
> kidding. Really.
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 03:35:36 GMT, "Jeff Novick" <(E-Mail Removed)>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >"John" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> >news:(E-Mail Removed).. .
> >> On 15 Jul 2003 20:53:30 -0700, (E-Mail Removed) (Brian Weiss) wrote:
> >>
> >> >I've been using Efke roll and sheet films, especially the 25, for a
> >> >long time. I used to see problems 4-5 years ago. I have not seen any
> >> >defects since they moved their factory out of Zagreb. Rodinal at 1:100
> >> >is fantastic as is ABC Pyro with the sheet films. They are my favorite
> >> >films.
> >>
> >> Sheet films ? If so have you also tried using a anti-static brush to
> >> remove any dust from the films ?
> >>
> >> Regards
> >>
> >> John S. Douglas, Photographer
> >> http://www.darkroompro.com
> >
> >John, I've tried every imaginable cure except Voodoo. Aside from
> >transparency film in general, all my black and white sheet film suffers
from
> >dust. The slower films seem to be the worst, and, Efke is the slowest and
> >worst. I've even taken the suggestion of going into the bathroom,
steaming
> >it up, and, loading the film. Better, but, not complete success.
> >
>
> Cheers,
> -sd
> http://www.zoom.sh

Keeping dust off sheet film is harder than keeping dust in check in a
darkroom with an ionizer or humidifier. There is also the problem of being
out in the field loading film. Some films are better than others repelling
dust. I dont know why.

(E-Mail Removed) (Geoffrey S. Mendelson) schrieb:

>I wish I could get my hands on it now. The cost of sending it from
>Europe or the U.S. to here (Israel) would almost equal the price, and
>the chance of it not getting X-rayed would be pretty low.

Fotoimpex has a flat rate for shipping which barely covers their own
expenses. Just order "enough" and clean up your fridge prior to this.
The comparativly low price (2,30EUR/roll of R50) does it´s own to the
whole price.

X-rays shouldn´t too much damage (if any at all) to the low sensitized
emulsions.

Just do it. And tell us. ;-)

Kodak has a pretty good information on its servers regarding x-raying
controls. If you need it, I´ll dig it out for you.

>Also I have not seen FG-7 in any of the stores here. I know Falcon sold
>the line of chemicals to someone else. Is it still made? Anyone in
>Europe see it?

Not in Germany.

>Geoff.

>The film was esentialy unchanged.

Well, just slight changes - other layers (like the ORWO acetat layer
since the 1990s until now - they pour the emulsion on Polyester.

Since you were interested in the Adox story (and got that partly wrong
<g>)- are you interested in that of the Adox camera works (and the
Wirgin factory in Wiesbaden)?
Gruss, Roman

I actually find myself liking the Efke 25 in 4x5, I did testing over here and
wrote an article for View Camera on the Efke 25,....I shot some last weekend
and I started think maybe I'll give it a try in eight by ten size.

In article <(E-Mail Removed)>, (E-Mail Removed) wrote:

> (E-Mail Removed) (Gregory W. Blank) schrieb:
>
> >Efke 25 available from USA www.jandcphoto.com
> >But he imports it from Europe
>
> Guess where they get it from..
>
> >>From Europe I believe Fotoimpex in Germany has it.
>
> ... exactly. They are cooperating.
>
> Has anyone already experience with the "new" Efke? According to Mirko
> of Fotoimpex, they changed the layer material from Acetat to
> Polyester, plus "minor" changes to emulsion and AHU layer. I just
> placed an order for R50, so maybe I´ll have to report back from myself
> when I am back in September.
>
> >> Geoff.
>
> Gruss, Roman

--
Check out my website @
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~gblank

Considering eating out?; You may end up spending a fortune in cookies.