Re: Copying B/W Negatives

In rec.photo.darkroom Nicholas O. Lindan <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>
> Peter <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote
>> You might want to try Eastman 5360 Direct MP film. It is a very slow
>> (around EI 0.3) copy film which forms direct positives (or in your
>> case direct negative copies) with normal black and white developer.
>
> The directions for it imply contacting in a machine for making dupes
> of B&W movies - which I sort of discounted most folks having access
> to, and so I passed it by.
>
> But, yes, there is nothing to preclude cutting the stuff up in 6-exposure
> strips and contacting it to the original negative strips. 5360 is ortho,
> so you can use it with a red safelight, making the job easier.

I had a go at dupliciating negatives tonight with 5360 in a Leitz
Eldia contact printer. I think that 7 minutes in D76 1:1 is about
right. My original estimate wasn't near enough. It also requires
exposures several times those of fast enlarging papers or 5302
Fine grain Release Positive.

I won't know for sure until I print them, but I think that the
duplicates are of decent quality. They certainly look sharp
with a 10x loupe.

> This may be the best solution. Chuck the slide duplicator.

You could use 5360 in a good setup with a proper macro
lens and it would make dust much easier to control.
The Eldia contact printer does a wonderful job, but I find
it very difficult to get all surfaces dust free.

>On the emulsion side, http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/pr...lab/5234.shtml,
> appears to be Kodak's recommendation for the highest quality reproduction.
> It is a negative/positive process, but you would end up with a set
> of B&W slides as the 'internegative'.
>
Let me know if you can get 5234 neg and 5366 master positive film
in short lengths. I think the smallest unit Kodak sells them in is
1000 feet. They are pretty cheap by the foot, but it does seem
like a lot to have in my fridge.

Peter.
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Peter Irwin

In article <bf50op$gkv$(E-Mail Removed)>,
Peter Irwin <(E-Mail Removed)> writes:
>
> I had a go at dupliciating negatives tonight with 5360 in a Leitz
> Eldia contact printer. I think that 7 minutes in D76 1:1 is about
> right. My original estimate wasn't near enough. It also requires
> exposures several times those of fast enlarging papers or 5302
> Fine grain Release Positive.
>

I wonder - would it be possible to make B&W slides from B&W negs by
contact. Assuming contrast would be low I'd assume that one would need
to push the film a lot to boost it. Would the result be too grainy?

--
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http://www.petezilla.co.uk

"Peter Chant" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote ...
>>
> I wonder - would it be possible to make B&W slides from B&W negs by
> contact. Assuming contrast would be low I'd assume that one would need
> to push the film a lot to boost it. Would the result be too grainy?
>
Well, one thing is for certain, it would give better results than trying to
produce B&W slides by cross-processing some of the chromogenic C-41 B&W
films in E-6 chemistry. Unless, of course, you like a nasty green cast on
your B&W Slides

In rec.photo.darkroom Peter Chant <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
> In article <bf50op$gkv$(E-Mail Removed)>,
> Peter Irwin <(E-Mail Removed)> writes:
>>
>> I had a go at dupliciating negatives tonight with 5360 in a Leitz
>> Eldia contact printer. I think that 7 minutes in D76 1:1 is about
>> right. My original estimate wasn't near enough. It also requires
>> exposures several times those of fast enlarging papers or 5302
>> Fine grain Release Positive.
>>
>
> I wonder - would it be possible to make B&W slides from B&W negs by
> contact. Assuming contrast would be low I'd assume that one would need
> to push the film a lot to boost it. Would the result be too grainy?
>

You can use Eastman 5302 Fine Grain Release Positive film
to print slides from negatives. It is movie print film,
which has an emulsion similar to enlargement papers.
You can use the same safelight that you use with paper.

Developement in straight Dektol for 4 minutes give good results
for many negatives. You can vary the contrast by choice of
developer. D-76 gives softer results, I understand that D-19
gives harder results, but I haven't tried it.

The film is very fine grained, even when developed in Dektol.

Peter.
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