HDR Halos in CS4

Discussion in 'Photoshop' started by darkman, Sep 8, 2011.

  1. darkman

    darkman Guest

    This will probably start a thread, but hey, the more the merrier.

    After I process landscape images in Photomatix Pro, I open the HDR's in
    Photoshop CS4 to to deal with the prominent halos in skies above trees
    and buildings. I could back off on HDR's Strength or boosting Smoothing,
    but that defeats why I'm using HDR in the first place. If I try cloning
    out the halos in Darken blend mode, the results are blotchy, and Darken
    tends to 'leak' and gray the edge of the horizon/ trees, buildings. I've
    tried selecting the sky with Color Range, Magic Wand, and even Topaz
    Remask, putting the problem area on its own layer and hammering away at
    it there. The blotch problem stays.

    I envy the HDR images I see where here are zero halos, but they never
    explain how they got rid of them. What's the best way? Thanks in advance.
     
    darkman, Sep 8, 2011
    #1
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  2. darkman

    Carrie Guest

    "darkman" <> wrote in message
    news:mubaq.11881$...
    > This will probably start a thread, but hey, the more the merrier.
    >
    > After I process landscape images in Photomatix Pro, I open the HDR's in
    > Photoshop CS4 to to deal with the prominent halos in skies above trees and
    > buildings. I could back off on HDR's Strength or boosting Smoothing, but
    > that defeats why I'm using HDR in the first place. If I try cloning out
    > the halos in Darken blend mode, the results are blotchy, and Darken tends
    > to 'leak' and gray the edge of the horizon/ trees, buildings. I've tried
    > selecting the sky with Color Range, Magic Wand, and even Topaz Remask,
    > putting the problem area on its own layer and hammering away at it there.
    > The blotch problem stays.
    >
    > I envy the HDR images I see where here are zero halos, but they never
    > explain how they got rid of them. What's the best way? Thanks in advance.
    >


    Is this anything useful?
    http://www.ghawkinsphotos.com/downloads/HDR_Halo_Removal_in_Photoshop_P1.pdf
    I have no idea what you are talking about (just when I think I know
    something about PS (LOL) so looked around via google.
     
    Carrie, Sep 9, 2011
    #2
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  3. darkman

    Kele Guest

    Everything I learned about the subject is here:
    http://www.stuckincustoms.com/hdr-tutorial/

    Watch the video on the linked page... lighting affects, white point. In the
    text tutorial, Trey talks about ghosting and how he controls it.

    Hopefully, you have a fast connection. I wish my computer was as fast as
    Trey's.

    Also, if you erase the top layer with HDR applied to show the non-HDR copy
    below, you can selectively reduce the HDR affect.

    I use HDR software almost always to adjust the image lighting. I've been
    able to be more subtle at applying HDR processing now - resulting in less
    ghosting and still get a good image pop. I use less or no flash more often
    now when taking pictures because I know HDR processing can pull more light
    from shadow. I can save poorly taken photos with HDR. Try to work on a
    large image size; there will be less ghosting imo.

    Treys favorite HDR software is the best for true multi-image HDR, but not as
    a Photoshop plug-in because it requires 32bit processing and flattening the
    image. Redynamix is almost as good as Photomatix without the in-Photoshop
    bit depth restrictions. Both work on a single photo.
     
    Kele, Sep 9, 2011
    #3
  4. darkman

    Savageduck Guest

    On 2011-09-08 19:00:36 -0700, "Kele" <> said:

    > Everything I learned about the subject is here:
    > http://www.stuckincustoms.com/hdr-tutorial/
    >
    > Watch the video on the linked page... lighting affects, white point. In the
    > text tutorial, Trey talks about ghosting and how he controls it.
    >
    > Hopefully, you have a fast connection. I wish my computer was as fast as
    > Trey's.
    >
    > Also, if you erase the top layer with HDR applied to show the non-HDR copy
    > below, you can selectively reduce the HDR affect.
    >
    > I use HDR software almost always to adjust the image lighting. I've been
    > able to be more subtle at applying HDR processing now - resulting in less
    > ghosting and still get a good image pop. I use less or no flash more often
    > now when taking pictures because I know HDR processing can pull more light
    > from shadow. I can save poorly taken photos with HDR. Try to work on a
    > large image size; there will be less ghosting imo.
    >
    > Treys favorite HDR software is the best for true multi-image HDR, but not as
    > a Photoshop plug-in because it requires 32bit processing and flattening the
    > image. Redynamix is almost as good as Photomatix without the in-Photoshop
    > bit depth restrictions. Both work on a single photo.


    I am currently using NIK HDR Efex Pro which has among its tools the
    ability to reduce halos, along with a few different levels and types of
    ghost correction.
    < ttps://www.niksoftware.com/hdrefexpro/usa/entry.php >

    Here is a comparison of a 5 exposure -2, -1, 0, +1, +2 HDR processed
    with HDR Efex Pro, against the "0" adjust shot.
    < http://homepage.mac.com/lco/filechute/HDR-MB62-comp.jpg >


    --
    Regards,

    Savageduck
     
    Savageduck, Sep 9, 2011
    #4
  5. darkman

    Kele Guest

    Bracketing capable camera? Nice comparison; the HDR is pushed hard and
    isn't glowing. Look at the chain spool fwd deck - pulled from xtreme
    shadow. I'm addicted to HDR.

    I didn't know Nik made one too; thanks.
     
    Kele, Sep 11, 2011
    #5
  6. darkman

    Savageduck Guest

    On 2011-09-10 16:31:11 -0700, "Kele" <> said:

    > Bracketing capable camera?


    The camera is a D300s.
    With that I can shoot 3, 5, 7, & 9 shot brackets, at +- 0.3, +- 0.7, &
    +- 1.0 intervals.

    > Nice comparison; the HDR is pushed hard and
    > isn't glowing. Look at the chain spool fwd deck - pulled from xtreme
    > shadow. I'm addicted to HDR.
    >
    > I didn't know Nik made one too; thanks.



    --
    Regards,

    Savageduck
     
    Savageduck, Sep 11, 2011
    #6
  7. darkman

    Savageduck Guest

    On 2011-09-10 16:31:11 -0700, "Kele" <> said:

    > Bracketing capable camera? Nice comparison; the HDR is pushed hard and
    > isn't glowing. Look at the chain spool fwd deck - pulled from xtreme
    > shadow. I'm addicted to HDR.
    >
    > I didn't know Nik made one too; thanks.


    BTW: here is a more extreme example of lifting detail in the shadows.
    This is also a 5 exposure bracket with +-1 interval.
    < http://homepage.mac.com/lco/filechute/DNC_7858_HDR-compW2.jpg >


    --
    Regards,

    Savageduck
     
    Savageduck, Sep 11, 2011
    #7
  8. Do not let the aperture change between shots. That is bound to bring out
    differences in renditions unless you have one spendy APO diffraction
    limited lens.
     
    John J Stafford, Sep 11, 2011
    #8
  9. darkman

    Savageduck Guest

    On 2011-09-10 19:30:14 -0700, John J Stafford <> said:

    > Do not let the aperture change between shots. That is bound to bring out
    > differences in renditions unless you have one spendy APO diffraction
    > limited lens.




    I shoot aperture priority and let the D300s make the exposure
    adjustment with the bracketing. The lens was a Nikkor 18-200mm VRII.
    So in the example I posted you will find the following exposure set up;
    All 5 shots are @ f/4.0 ISO 200.
    The five bracketed shots (-2, -1, 0, +1, +2) have the following shutter speeds.
    1/3200, 1/1600, 1/800, 1/400, & 1/200

    --
    Regards,

    Savageduck
     
    Savageduck, Sep 11, 2011
    #9
  10. John J Stafford <> wrote:
    > Do not let the aperture change between shots. That is bound to bring out
    > differences in renditions unless you have one spendy APO diffraction
    > limited lens.


    It is going to bring out differences with any lens, because you change the
    depth of field between the shots if you change the aperture.

    --
    Johan W. Elzenga, Editor/Photographer, www.johanfoto.com
     
    Johan W. Elzenga, Sep 11, 2011
    #10
  11. darkman

    darkman Guest

    On 9/10/2011 7:56 PM, Savageduck wrote:
    > On 2011-09-10 19:30:14 -0700, John J Stafford <> said:
    >
    >> Do not let the aperture change between shots. That is bound to bring out
    >> differences in renditions unless you have one spendy APO diffraction
    >> limited lens.

    >
    >
    >
    > I shoot aperture priority and let the D300s make the exposure adjustment
    > with the bracketing. The lens was a Nikkor 18-200mm VRII.
    > So in the example I posted you will find the following exposure set up;
    > All 5 shots are @ f/4.0 ISO 200.
    > The five bracketed shots (-2, -1, 0, +1, +2) have the following shutter
    > speeds.
    > 1/3200, 1/1600, 1/800, 1/400, & 1/200
    >

    Yeah, I (exclusively) use aperture priority with HDR shooting, mount a
    tripod (usually), and even use manual focus to disarm any focus change
    during bracketing. I use a Nikon D700, having just gotten up to full
    frame. Previous ideas in the thread here have worked well thanks,
    everybody), and StuckInCustoms does have good suggestions. But all
    involve very labor-intensive masking and layering, and my halos seemed
    strong compared to other folks' HDR work. Which prompted me to post here
    thinking I was off-base with my processing.
    Thanks again for your input - the search goes on.
     
    darkman, Sep 13, 2011
    #11
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