20D Grey Highlights At ISO 1600

Discussion in '35mm Cameras' started by Giulia, Apr 27, 2005.

  1. Giulia

    Giulia Guest

    Hi. I have just been viewing some photos I shot indoors, but have noticed
    that the highlights seem to be grey! Anyone else experienced this?

    The photos were shot on a 20D. All the shots at ISO 800 and lower seem OK.
     
    Giulia, Apr 27, 2005
    #1
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  2. Giulia

    Douglas Guest


    The contrast range of 20D at the running man idiot setting of 3200 ISO is
    about 60% of the range at 100 ISO. I can only presume the range at 800 ISO
    is somewhere less than 80% . Add this to shooting JPG and you'll lose the
    highlights and the shadow detail and get exactly what you have.

    Douglas
     
    Douglas, Apr 27, 2005
    #2
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  3. You have underexposed. Use photoshop, go to levels, and adjust the grey so
    that it becomes white. You will lose some tonality doing this, so next time
    you should correctly expose the photo when you take it by using the partial
    metering on the white, and increasing exposure by 1 or 2 stops.

    Duncan.
     
    Duncan J Murray, Apr 27, 2005
    #3
  4. Giulia

    Giulia Guest

    Thank you Duncan (and Douglas) for your posts.

    You are right. I increased the exposure by 0.2 and the grey highlights
    disappeared.

    Unfortunately, in this situation I was shooting in low light, with a long
    focal length and a fast moving subject (my nephew!), so increasing exposure
    by 1 or 2 stops would have caused motion blur.

    Thank you for your advise, it is greatly appreciated.

    Please excuse my ignorance, but it there a way to detect this when shooting?
    The histogram looked OK (although little detail at the high end). Also, the
    photo looked fine on LCD, it was only when viewed on computer that it was
    visible. Maybe spot metering (although 20D doesn't really have spot
    metering)?




    "Duncan J Murray"
     
    Giulia, Apr 27, 2005
    #4
  5. Giulia

    Douglas Guest

    Spot metering... Hmmm. Canon's metering on a 20D is a little strange for
    many people. The way it focuses (out of the box) is odd too. Those little
    squares in the viewfinder are all active for focus and exposure at Canon's
    default settings and this is detrimental to good photography.

    How it works (focus wise) is which ever square finds the closest part of the
    subject becomes the active square so your pictures may or may not be focused
    properly. It will however always focus on the closest object it detects.
    Focus on a face with f2.8 and the nose will be in focus but the eyes out of
    focus.

    With exposure, all the squares are read and averaged so that the whole
    picture is exposed at a reading which will result in incorrect exposure with
    all but flash. Personally I've never found any use for this ridicilous
    method of metering. I set the metering to the single centre point and use
    the toggle to change it if this doesn't pickup what it is I'm metering on.

    My experience is that although many people here report the 20D as a fine
    camera, the two I bought were not actually as convienient to use and produce
    as well exposed and focused results as my earlier 10D did and (shock horror)
    as sharp a shot as my trusty old SD9 Sigma does!

    Douglas
     
    Douglas, Apr 27, 2005
    #5
  6. Giulia

    Paul Bielec Guest

    Thought that the 20D does have the spot metering???
    As for the AF, it is always set to the center AF point on my 300D.
    I never use the remaining AF points.
     
    Paul Bielec, Apr 27, 2005
    #6
  7. We're all ignorant!

    From what I have heard, the LCD screen is good for checking sharpness, but
    it is often not calibrated correctly for looking at colour/tone.

    The 20D has partial metering, which will be fine for this. Basically, and
    this is the hardest part of photograph (in my opinion), you need to meter
    from a particular area (preferably all the same tone), and then 'select' how
    that area will turn out on the image by adjusting the exposure up or down.
    For highlights (things that are meant to be white) you need to increase
    exposure. For slide film, it's just over 1 stop (i.e. double the time of
    exposure), for digital, I think it's about the same.

    You could try out some experiments using your partial metering and
    bracketing over a 6 stop range, in half stops, using partial metering. That
    way you'll find out just about where different compensation values will lie
    on the tone curve.

    If you don't get any of the above, do say.

    Duncan.
     
    Duncan J Murray, Apr 28, 2005
    #7
  8. Giulia

    Matt Clara Guest

    Hi,
    Questions specific to the 20D and what its sensor can do don't belong
    in this group.
    Thanks!
     
    Matt Clara, Apr 28, 2005
    #8
  9. Giulia

    Frank ess Guest

    What group is that?
     
    Frank ess, Apr 28, 2005
    #9
  10. Giulia

    Douglas Guest

    Any that mentions Canon.
    You ought to know that by now Frank
    If you don't have a Leica or shoot on that old stuff which needs chemicals
    and environmental permissions, don't post in this group!

    Douglas
     
    Douglas, Apr 28, 2005
    #10
  11. The question was about exposure - and who better to know about it than film
    users?

    Duncan.
     
    Duncan J Murray, Apr 28, 2005
    #11
  12. Giulia

    Mark Lauter Guest

    I don't want to get into the middle of "right group/wrong group" discussion,
    but he might get a better (read more helpful) response in
    rec.photo.digital.slr-systems, especially since the OP was about a potential
    problem with the 20d. Of course he got good help here too. Just my $.02 :)
     
    Mark Lauter, Apr 28, 2005
    #12
  13. Giulia

    Giulia Guest

    Matt, you have a valid point.

    However, having spent many years on older newsgroups such as
    rec.photo.equipment.35mm, I do not want to cut it dead as I know for a fact
    that there are some very intelligent people who regularly read this
    newsgroup.

    If it was a newsgroup which I just picked randomly, then fair enough.
    However, I am familiar with the people who visit this newsgroup and just
    because I have changed to digital, I am still interested in their opinions.
    Furthermore, many of these people are converging and are shooting both film
    and digital.

    Believe it or not, there isn't really much difference between film and
    digital. Even shooting 35mm isn't non-digital, as a lot of people drum scan
    the negatives and slides for post processing on the PC.

    I apologise it I offended you.
     
    Giulia, Apr 28, 2005
    #13
  14. Giulia

    Alan Browne Guest

    Perhaps appropriate links such as
    , and
    www.dpreview.com would have been helpful information too.

    Cheers,
    Alan
     
    Alan Browne, Apr 28, 2005
    #14
  15. Giulia

    Douglas Guest

    I suppose the fact the message was cross posted to rec.photo.digital has
    escaped the eagle eye of the Sherrif, has it?

    Douglas
     
    Douglas, Apr 28, 2005
    #15
  16. Giulia

    ian lincoln Guest

    Your quite right. I would like to talk to you about god and how your lack
    of faith blah blah blah blah........
     
    ian lincoln, Apr 28, 2005
    #16
  17. Giulia

    JPS Guest

    In message <wVSbe.31332$>,
    Well, my 20D focuses much better than my 10D did, and faster.

    As far as exposure is concerned, the 10D's metering is false. The 10D,
    when set to ISO 100, actually meters for about ISO 64, so the exposures
    tend to be more saturated, by default. I keep my 10D at +2/3 EC most of
    the time, to get the same level of exposure, but I shoot RAW, and I
    think the 10D's implicit +2/3 EC is not a good match for it's
    sharp-clipping of JPEG highlights.
    The SD9 is "sharp" because it is aliased and therefore pixellated.
    Sharpness does not equal detail.
    --
     
    JPS, Apr 29, 2005
    #17
  18. Giulia

    JPS Guest

    In message <d4q5a3$l3q$>,
    Digital exposure has different concerns than film exposure, and will
    even vary from camera to camera.
    --
     
    JPS, Apr 29, 2005
    #18
  19. Giulia

    Alan Browne Guest

    I suppose it did, shaddow. Keep up the good work Dougie.
     
    Alan Browne, Apr 29, 2005
    #19
  20. Giulia

    paul Guest


    That's OK, I've played with dcraw to get a sharper more aliased look out
    of the D70. Some shots it's great, some no improvement, some less sharp
    looking, I've seen it make awful patterns but not necessarily. Each
    alternative has it's strengths that can be harnessed.
     
    paul, Apr 29, 2005
    #20
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