acceptable percentagel of DVD returns?

Discussion in 'Amateur Video Production' started by Steve S., Jan 10, 2007.

  1. Steve S.

    Steve S. Guest

    When burning DVD's for distribution using a DVD duplicator (I am using a
    "Shark" brand), what is considered a normal and acceptable percentage of
    returns? Are most of these due to DVD player compatibility problems? All
    thoughts and experience with this issue welcome.
    Steve S.
     
    Steve S., Jan 10, 2007
    #1
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  2. Steve S.

    Mike Kujbida Guest


    "Shark"? Can't say that I've ever heard of that brand.
    I'd say 1 - 2% maximum for returns. Anything more and you're doing
    something wrong.
    Are you using name brand media? Taiyo Yuden or Verbatim are the rwo brands
    most recommended.
    Also (in spite of a lot of rumours), most folks that I know are sticking to
    the DVD -R format.
    Are you checking your copies on a range of players (cheap ones & good ones,
    new ones and old ones) to ensure compatibility?
    Lastly, make sure that your master is burned at no more than2X.

    Mike
     
    Mike Kujbida, Jan 10, 2007
    #2
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  3. I use Taiyo-Yuden DVD+R discs exclusively
    I burn at 2x using DVDdecrypter (from an IMG file from Encore)
    I have <1% returns.
     
    Richard Crowley, Jan 10, 2007
    #3
  4. Steve S.

    GaryT Guest

    When making copies, what is the best way to make a "nice" result for the DVD
    itself without negatively affecting playability? For my daughter's wedding I
    wanted to make a label, using a picture from the event itself. The DVDs I
    made would play fine in both my computer and stand alone DVD player, until I
    placed the label. The labeled ones would then only play on the computer. I
    do not (yet) have available a Lightscribe burner or a printer that can print
    direct to disk.

    I was wondering if the label effect varies depending on the particular DVD
    player. Unfortunately I only have the one player to test with so do not know
    if it is just my machine, however I do not want to distribute copies to
    other family members that are likely to be unplayable on most other units
    too.

    Gary
     
    GaryT, Jan 10, 2007
    #4
  5. I use Verbatim +R and have about 1% return over several 100 copies. Burn
    rate max 4 times.

    Never ever use glued labels on DVDs. Too high risk of problems due to the
    fact that speed and temps are too high.
     
    Peter O Sjostrand, Jan 10, 2007
    #5
  6. Steve S.

    Steve S. Guest

    Thanks for the input. I am using different brands--whatever the local
    source, which is well-respected here in Atlanta, says is "best quality", but
    that has included Verbatim and Fuji. Most of these masters were built in DVD
    Studio Pro and then burned in Toast at 1x speed; then the duplicates are
    burned in the Shark at 1x speed.

    I'm trying to get more information about the returns to troubleshoot it. So
    far the description is "no audio". Whenever I've heard "no audio" in the
    world of VHS tape, I always suspect that the audio is split between Ch. 1
    and Ch. 2, and the consumer simply doesn't have both speakers hooked up. Or
    there is a problem with one particular master. This is occurring on several
    different titles, and I've checked some of them, and audio is on both
    channels. Plus, for one of these titles, I burned 25 more of them recently
    and checked them all, no problems here. I have four DVD players and have not
    tested on all four; that will be next to see if I can identify a
    compatibility issue. I am using -R format.

    If I learn more specifics about what the failures are and if they are
    consistent, I'll post again.
    Thanks,
    Steve S.
     
    Steve S., Jan 10, 2007
    #6
  7. Steve S.

    Mark Burns Guest

    We have debated the labels on DVD for a long time on these forums.
    About half of us have had good luck with pre-printed labels, the other
    half has not been as fortunate. I have personaly not had a problem
    with the few that I have tried, but why take a chance?

    The LightScribe is a good choice for some, but it doesn't do color and
    is slow. I have a one and don't use it for that.

    Many of us use the Epson Stylus printers that print directly on
    prelabled CD/DVD. I purchased my Epson R200 at Sam's for $90 about a
    year ago, pre-labeled Verbatim DVDs for $38/100. I also have an R220
    model at my office. This is a great product. I have not tried the new
    R340 that also has a CD/DVD tray but did see it on a recent visit to
    Sam's.

    My experience on many pre-labeled DVDs and not had a single problem yet
    on many different players.

    Cheers...
     
    Mark Burns, Jan 10, 2007
    #7
  8. Steve S.

    Steve S. Guest

    What about writing on CD's and DVD's with markers? I have gone to using
    "approved" markers, but only to cover my own butt in case a client should
    ever have a problem.

    Also, I recently purchased a HP Photosmart D5160 which also prints on
    printable DVD's, but it has the standard two ink cartridges--one black and
    one color. The Epson has several small cartridges, and the black cartridge
    is the same size as the other colors, which I thought was a poor design and
    which is what kept me from buying one (since, presumably, the black would
    run out faster). The HP model is the same price as the Epson, roughly $100.

    HOWEVER, the installation CD was defective, and when I downloaded the
    installation software from the website (for my Mac), it did not contain the
    template required to print directly on DVD's. (All this took customer
    service about 2 hours on the phone to determine.) HP is sending me a
    replacement installation CD, so the jury is still out on this one.
    Steve S.
     
    Steve S., Jan 10, 2007
    #8
  9. "GaryT" wrote ...
    Printable discs. I use printable Taiyo-Yuden DVDs and CDs
    and print them on my cheap Epson R300. NEVER use paper
    labels on DVD discs. And they are tacky (no pun intened)
    on CD discs.
    From what I have heard, Lightscribe is dreadfully slow. Way
    to slow for practical real-world use unless you are doing only
    one or two discs on odd ocasions.
    Avoid paper labels altogether. End of message.
     
    Richard Crowley, Jan 10, 2007
    #9
  10. "Steve S." wrote in ...
    The data layer in DVDs is sandwiched between two slices
    of plastic. You could scratch on a DVD with a rusty nail
    with little risk to the data. OTOH, CDs are "protected" by
    only a thin, screen-printed layer of lacquer on the "label"
    side (which is also the data side). I only use inkjet printing
    on CD discs.
    Many vendors offer continuous ink conversion kits for the
    Epson printers. It reduces the cost of ink to a tiny fraction
    of the cost of the little plug-in cartridges. I have used one
    here at home on my R300 for a couple of years, and I just
    installed a different brand in the office R200 yesterday.

    Dunno if there are any conversion kits for the HP, however?
     
    Richard Crowley, Jan 10, 2007
    #10
  11. "Steve S." wrote ...
    Most of the "brands" just use whatever discs are cheap that
    month and put their name on it. There are only a few actual
    manufacturers of discs and everybody else just slaps their
    name on the brand-du-jour. Many of the well-known "brand-
    names" are just OEMing other people's products. And you
    can't even rely on getting the same discs from one order to
    the next.

    That is why I use Taiyo-Yuden exclusively. They were the first
    (and still the best IMHO) maker of writable discs. They cost
    literally only a few pennies more than the "random junk" brands.
    Be sure to buy them from a reputable vendor who won't re-
    brand counterfeit discs. I use http://www.supermediastore.com
    exclusively. I have no connection with this vendor except as a
    satisfied, paying, customer. I am ordering another 200 T-Y
    printable CD discs this morning for a big project.

    I have published some of my BKMs (Best Known Methods)
    here: http://www.rcrowley.com/VideoBKM.htm I have
    customers for whom I have produced DVD masters so they
    can reproduce copies as they need them. I created that page
    to document what I have found to be reliable (and cheap).
    If you are looking for the fast/expensive methods, you won't
    find them on that page.
     
    Richard Crowley, Jan 10, 2007
    #11
  12. Are there Taiyo-Yuden inkjet printable DL 8.4Gb blanks available?
     
    Claude V. Lucas, Jan 10, 2007
    #12
  13. "Claude V. Lucas" wrote ...
    A quick check with my friend Google says apparently not
    yet. DL is still to new/immature/expensive for my tastes.
    When T-Y sells them at a decent price, I will reconsider.
    Meantime, you guys can work out the kinks and force the
    market to lower prices. I'll leave it to you-all. Good luck.
     
    Richard Crowley, Jan 10, 2007
    #13
  14. I've had decent luck with the Verbatims, no duds so far.

    I'll be buying the T-Ys when/if they become available.
     
    Claude V. Lucas, Jan 10, 2007
    #14
  15. Steve S.

    Ray S Guest

    Can you then 'buff out' surface scratches on DVD's? It seems to me that
    disks that get careless treatment, such as laying about on the floor,
    that end up with multiple light scratches often have difficulty playing.
     
    Ray S, Jan 10, 2007
    #15
  16. Steve S.

    marks542004 Guest

    yes , dvd and cd can both be polished a little . There are a number of
    machines available at different price levels.

    They all seem to be variations of toothpaste and a felt polishing pad.
     
    marks542004, Jan 11, 2007
    #16
  17. "Ray S" wrote ...
    In my experience, yes. But note that with a much greater
    data packing density, DVDs are more critical (and easier
    to damage beyond buffing) than CDs.

    Please note that when I talked (facetiously) about
    scratching on the DVD with a rusty nail, I was talking
    about the LABEL side, NOT the side that gets read
    by the player!!

    The "reading side" is just as fragile in all optical discs.
    But with CDs, the label side is almost as fragile as it
    is very minimally protected.
     
    Richard Crowley, Jan 11, 2007
    #17
  18. Steve S.

    Ray S Guest

    Ah, very good then. I had thought that as well.
     
    Ray S, Jan 11, 2007
    #18
  19. Steve S.

    Steve King Guest

    Polishes for plastic have been around for many years. I have bottle here
    somewhere, that lost its label long ago, that I purchased to take minor
    scratches from the windshield of an aircraft I restored. Used with a power
    buffer lambswool pad, it worked great. Auto supply stores carry a
    fibreglass polishes in various grits that should work, too.

    Steve King

    Steve King
     
    Steve King, Jan 11, 2007
    #19
  20. Steve S.

    codecpage Guest

    Tis can't ne the burner nor the media. If there is video, audio surely
    would be there, unless you used some settings the players can't cope
    with.
    I've once heard that mpeg audio is not really part of the DVD standard
    at least in the US, so maybe if your customers have 'vintage' DVD
    players you may better use uncompressed or AC3 for audio encoding.

    Another possibility, that the audio descriptions in the IFO files of
    your authoring may mislead some players.

    (I'm assuming that you talk about authored DVDs and not of just avi
    files of course).

    Cheers


    http://www.codecpage.com
     
    codecpage, Jan 11, 2007
    #20
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