AIS MF Nikkors 28mm f2.0 vrs. 28mm f2.8

Discussion in '35mm Cameras' started by Roger, Sep 7, 2004.

  1. Roger

    Roger Guest


    I've been using a 28mm f2.8 AIS MF Nikkor for quite some time as a
    street lens. Recently I got some back some photos that I had taken on
    a trip and noticed that I just didn't seem to be getting the
    performance I expected at the corners and edges when the lens was
    focused at infinity (at f8-16). I went back through many prior photos
    and realized that I had fallen into a routine of using the lens as a
    "night" street lens and most of the photos were such that the
    corners/edges didn't really play into the final image. I've also been
    working around a bit of flare when strong point sources are included
    in the image, quite common for the "night" shots.

    After some research, it seems that the 28mm f2.0 MF AIS lens might be
    a better lens for the kind of work I'm doing.

    Can anyone with experience with the 28mm f2.0 MF AIS lens comment on
    the flare resistance in high contrast images and the infinity
    performance at medium/high apertures (e.g. daylight).

    BTW: The 28mm f2.8 MF AIS lens is near perfection for close up images
    and medium range images. It has been a mainstay lens, but I just had
    an opportunity to use it for some mountain and urban skyline scenic
    panoramas and noticed the slight falloff when I started stitching the

    The falloff of the 28mm f2.8 is barely noticeable in smaller stand
    alone frames and even if the 2.0 appears to be a better solution for
    some of what I, I'll keep the 28 for its mid distance performance. I
    really like it at f5.6 on the street with ISO 400 film. The softness
    does begin to show at larger magnifications (e.g. 10x14).

    Thanks for the help,
    Roger, Sep 7, 2004
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  2. Roger

    Matt Clara Guest

    Check out David Ruether's review of those two lenses. Short and to the
    point. I'm sure he wouldn't mind some correspondence on the subject,

    I've heard the 2.8 AIS is better when focused on objects in the foreground
    to middle distances. I own one and think it's a fantastic lens.
    Matt Clara, Sep 8, 2004
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  3. Roger

    Gordon Moat Guest

    I had some similar problems and experiences with several Nikon 28 mm
    manual focus lenses.
    To use in really low light conditions, that f2.0 would provide a
    brighter view through the viewfinder. Unfortunately, I don't think you
    will avoid darker corners, unless you stop down the lens to f5.6 or f8.
    Unfortunately, again I have yet to find a 28 mm manual focus Nikon lens
    that is really good at avoiding flare. Using an HN-1 or HN-2 hood can
    help, though it is still important to be careful when setting up the
    shot. Most of the 24 mm Nikon lenses are much better in this regard.
    That one is probably better than other Nikon 28 mm choices at close
    distance, especially with the CRC feature. My preference is to using a
    28 mm more stopped down, than wide open. I almost went with the 28 mm
    f2.8, though I tried out a 28 mm f3.5 AIS, and found I liked the stop
    down performance better. I am now finding that I am leaning more towards
    getting a 24 mm f2.8 instead.
    The newer autofocus 28 mm f1.4 is supposedly a much better lens, and
    better resistance to flare. However, these are much more expensive, and
    the manual focus feel seems quite loose compared to a true manual focus
    Okay, it might sound weird that I went with a 28 mm f3.5 AIS. I really
    wanted more stop down performance, though there are compromises. This
    lens shows almost no distortion, which was one of the reasons I got it.
    During night shooting, a split image screen will just go dark, so you
    really need to change screens to use it under low light. This lens is a
    very simple construction, which might explain why it is more flare
    resistant than the other 28 mm lenses. Close focus is not as good as the
    28 mm f2.8, so I cannot recommend it for that. It does close focus to
    under 1' (less than 0.3 m), though it works better with a short PK-11
    extension tube at close distance. If you find yourself doing many shots
    at f2.0, then stick with that version, or try to get a newer f1.4


    Gordon Moat
    A G Studio
    <> Updated!
    Gordon Moat, Sep 8, 2004
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