blur photo...need help...urgent!!

Discussion in 'Photography' started by Janette Lo, Sep 11, 2003.

  1. Janette Lo

    Janette Lo Guest

    Hi, I just bought a SB22s Nikon flash and have it attached on my Nikon F80s
    camera. I chose f5.6 for most of the shots with Fuji Reala100 film, the
    shutter speed automatically set to 1/60s once the external flash is attached
    on my camera. No filter was used for the test shots, my lens was Nikkon
    28-80mm G lens. I used the flash for all of my shots, both indoor and
    outdoor, I set to "A" mode with shutter speed fixed at 1/60s and let the
    external flash did the rest automatically.

    After developed this "test" roll at the Wal-mart, I found that "all" of my
    matte photos are "blurred". It doesn't look like out of focus, because
    nothing was focused, not even the subject nor the background. It more looks
    like adding a soft lens/filter on my camera. I was actually shooting an
    informal wedding rehearsal (both indoor and outdoor) and now I'm so scared
    the same problem will occur again on the actual day.

    I used to take lots of pictures with my camera and never find a situation
    like this. However, that was the first time I attached an external flash.

    I would be very appreciated if anyone can give me some comments. Thanks in
    advance!

    Janette
     
    Janette Lo, Sep 11, 2003
    #1
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  2. Janette Lo

    garryac Guest

    Sounds like it couldbe a little camera shake

    Doanother test roll.

    Shoot a subject with the flash on as you did already, take the flash
    of and then shoot it again with the same apature and shutterspeed you
    used with the flash on, and then shoot it again with a much higher
    shutter speed.

    see how they turn out then


    garry ac
     
    garryac, Sep 11, 2003
    #2
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  3. Janette Lo

    photojennic Guest

    hi there, I have the f80 and I have used an external flash....Try setting
    your camera to the P (auto) setting to see if you have the same
    problems....also try having walmart re process maybe it was an err on their
    behalf...look at your negs....all the best
     
    photojennic, Sep 12, 2003
    #3
  4. Janette Lo

    Janette Lo Guest

    Hi everyone, thanks for all your suggestions! There's some more things that
    i would like to add:

    1. I used to hand hold my camera with slow shutter speed, ie slower than
    1/60 and they came out nicely. I usually take landscape photos.

    2. The photos are blurred in the same way, if it's caused by hand shaking,
    then each one should blurred differently. They look that adding a soft
    filter, whole image was soften.

    3. I used tripod for some of the shots with a cable release, and as well,
    they are also blurred in the same way as others.

    4. I "just" remember one "important" thing...when I took those pictures, my
    camera indicator showed that the shot was underexposed, ie. the bar went to
    the negative side, quite a few stops actually. So, I now try to guess if my
    photos are "all" underexposed...I was unaware of the indicator because I
    thought the flash will "do" something to compensate it, and now i know it's
    not!

    5. And tonight I tried with another roll of film and found something that I
    don't understand...when I used "A" mode and set f4 (the largest aperture for
    my lens) with the external flash turned on, the shutter speed was fixed at
    1/60s, with the indicator bar pointed towards the negative sign
    (underexposed).

    Question: does it mean that if I take the photo with this setting (with the
    external flash), my photo will get underexposed?

    Then I switched off the flash and the shutter speed changed automatically
    (to a slower speed), and the underexposed sign was gone (that means the shot
    was in right exposure).

    Next, I used shutter priorty "S" mode and set the shutter speed to 1/60s
    with the external flash on. It surely said it was underexposed. So I change
    the shutter speed until it said it was at right exposure, at that time it
    was already 1/10s with f4.8.

    Question: If I used the above "S" setting, will I get a proper exposed
    picture, even though the flash speed (sync speed??) is different from the
    shutter speed?

    Next, I used "M" mode and adjust the shutter and aperture until the
    underexposed sign was gone. However, it seemed to me that the setting was
    not affected no matter I used the external flash or not (ie. no matter I
    turned on or turned off the external flash, my setting stayed the same --
    unless I adjust it by myself).

    Question: As the external flash never affect the aperture or shutter speed I
    manually set in "M" mode, will I still able to get a proper exposed picture?

    Finally, I tried "P" mode with the external flash and found the setting to
    be f5.6 with 1/60s. However, it doesn't have an underexposed sign. Then, I
    switched off the external flash and found the new setting was f4.2 with
    1/10s.

    Question: Which mode will you suggest me to use? I want the safest mode for
    that important occasion. I will definitely use ISO400 films.

    Thanks in advance!!

    Janette
     
    Janette Lo, Sep 12, 2003
    #4
  5. It could be that the SB22 isn't giving you enough flash.

    But it sounds like you didn't "zero" the meter; that is, adjust aperture or
    shutter speed to compensate for underexposure. If the meter says the shot is
    underexposed, it IS underexposed!
    The flash may have TTL capability, but I don't think it can adjust your
    shutter or aperture.

    Wal-mart does not offer glossy paper, only that horrible matte paper that
    they use to hide their inferior digital printer output. Take a neg and pay
    another photo shop to print on glossy. Costco or Sam's is as cheap. But
    maybe cut-rate isn't the way to go for a wedding...

    One of the quickest ways to learn metering is to borrow a good digital
    camera (not a point-and-shoot) so that you can learn right after taking a
    shot instead of waiting for development, then trying to remember your
    settings. Instant lesson.

    If you have access to a scanner, we may be able to help you if you could
    upload an example photo. We're just taking shots in the dark (pun intended).
     
    Larry CdeBaca, Sep 12, 2003
    #5
  6. Janette Lo

    Janette Lo Guest

    Hi, thanks again for everyone's suggestion!

    I redeveloped the photos at Walmart (of course free of charge) and guess
    what...the photos are sharp and the grayish color is gone! They said it's
    their machine's focus problem...something like that...

    However, I now realize that if I use "A" mode and use the external flash,
    the metering value will not be changed....so I will meter normally and then
    add the flash with "A" mode....or should I use "A" mode for the indoor
    shots??

    Thanks again,
    Janette
     
    Janette Lo, Sep 16, 2003
    #6
  7. Janette Lo

    flytoomuch Guest

    First... you can't change the laws of physics. A ISO 100 film at
    5.6 with the SB22 gives you a flash range of 2 to 10 feet. You can
    wish anything else you want.. but that is the law of physics.

    So what went wrong? Depends on how you set the flash sync and the
    flash to subject distance. The camera will behave differently on slow
    sync or normal sync. If you were on normal sync, then the subject
    will be underexposed if it is further than 10 feet from the flash.
    If you are on slow sync, then the camera will drop the shutter speed
    to get a good natural light exposure. The second scenario is a
    disaster for hand helds as the shutter speed could easily approach 1
    second. The first probably means just underexposed negatives, which
    will give you unsharp photos as they try to compensate in the printing
    or scanning process.

    If you are going to use a flash in Aperture or manual mode, you must
    think for every shot. First, determine the flash to subject distance,
    and then choose the appropriate aperature. Shutter speed won't make a
    difference here, so long as it is set to a suitable (1/60 to 1/250 for
    the N80) sync speed. Unless you are using a tripod set the flash mode
    to normal sync and not slow sync. With SB22 and 100 ISO films, the
    following are example exposures:

    Aperature Flash to Subject Distance Flash to Subject
    ISO 100 ISO 400
    f11 1 to 5 feet 1 to 10 feet
    f8 1 to 7 feet 2 to 14 feet
    f5.6 1 to 10 feet 3 to 20 feet
    f4 2 to 14 feet 4 to 30 feet
    f2.8 3 to 20 feet 5 to 40 feet

    I find it much easier when shooting weddings to use the Program mode
    and let the camera do the calculations. Even in program mode, the
    above rules apply. That is with a f 5.6 lens, your subject must be
    closer than 10 feet. The only time I use aperature or manual modes is
    for the formal shots when the camera sits on the a tripod and I can
    accurately asses the flash to subject distance.

    As you are probably realizing, an 5.6 lens with 100 ISO film and the
    SB22 severly limits your flash range. As a long term solution, you
    need a more powerful flash (ie SB28D or SB50D), and a faster lens. As
    a short term solution, use a faster film... and for crying out loud
    don't take wedding photos to the hacks at Walmart.. or any other one
    hour photo place with glorified cashiers running the machines. Take
    them to a pro who understands photos. If this is your friend, then the
    friendship is hopefully worth more than then difference in price and
    if its not your friend, then take them to a pro and recoup the cost.

    Jim
     
    flytoomuch, Sep 19, 2003
    #7
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