Buying my first SLR, Nikon N75, Minolta Maxxum 5, or Cannon EOS Rebel Ti?

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by James Cloud, Apr 21, 2004.

  1. James Cloud

    James Cloud Guest

    Hello everyone,

    I'm looking to buy my first SLR film camera to renew my photography
    hobby, which I once had over 20+ years old. With a total camera and
    lens budget of $300, the three SLR cameras I am considering are Nikon
    N75, Minolta Maxxum 5, and Cannon EOS Rebel Ti. I am going to pair it
    with a Sigma 24-70 /f3.5-5.6 lens.

    The three models I listed above are selling for about the same price
    at camera stores, with Minolta being the least expensive ($150), and
    the Cannon Ti the most ($200). I am wondering if you have any
    recommendations on which one is preferred over the others?

    Thanks in advance for your help.

    James
     
    James Cloud, Apr 21, 2004
    #1
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  2. James Cloud

    Lung Fish Guest

    (James Cloud) wrote in
    Why a Sigma lens? Your choice should be based upon the SYSTEM you are
    entering into, not just that body and one lens. The wonderful thing
    about getting your first SLR is all of the accessories that will come
    along with it, now or in the future.

    Look at the lens offerings for Canon, Nikon, and Minolta. Are the lenses
    you are going to want to use offered?

    Look at the AF, flash, and countless other options.

    Then look at the bodies last. Does it have the features you need? How
    does it feel in your hands? How rugged is it built?

    Trust me, if you don't take the time to evaluate things in this order,
    you'll be selling your whole kit to move to the one that you should have
    gotten not too far down the road.
     
    Lung Fish, Apr 21, 2004
    #2
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  3. James Cloud

    Tony Spadaro Guest

    The Maxxum 5 or Rebel Ti are both complete cameras. The N75 is crippled. I
    would suggest the "kit" lenses from the manufacturer over the Sigma lens -
    why pay more for something of lower quality? Take a look at the articles on
    selecting equipment here:
    http://www.chapelhillnoir.com/mani/manifest00.html
     
    Tony Spadaro, Apr 21, 2004
    #3
  4. James Cloud

    PhotoMan Guest

    The Cannon uses ammo, not film.
     
    PhotoMan, Apr 21, 2004
    #4
  5. James Cloud

    Alan Browne Guest

    Most bang/$ = Maxxum 5.
     
    Alan Browne, Apr 21, 2004
    #5
  6. James Cloud

    James Cloud Guest

    Tony,

    Thank you for your help. I am leaning toward the Minolta at this
    point because the spot-metering. The rebel Ti is nice in its handling
    and display, so the question is: does the lack of spot-metering in Ti
    make the Maxxum 5 more desirable?

    Lung Fish:
    The reason I am looking at the Sigma 24-70mm f/3.5-5.6 is because I
    have about $100 left after the body purchase. If I buy a bundled
    Minolta or a Cannon lens with the camera, I can actually save a little
    money. But the entry level lens that comes with either camera is
    usually a 28-90, f/4.5-5.6. I like landscaping work and thought a
    24-70mm lens a better starter lens for me than 28/90. What do you
    think?

    Also, I think in term of optical quality, the Sigma lens may actually
    be slightly better than the cheap bundled lens from either Canon or
    Minolta. Mechanically I think they probably work equally well with
    the body. Am I correct in wanting to pay extra for a third-party lens
    than the OEM one? That sounds a bit odd, doesn't it?
    James
     
    James Cloud, Apr 21, 2004
    #6
  7. James Cloud

    ROBMURR Guest

    Tony,
    Who told you the Rebel TI does not have spot metering? It does.
    You know how rarely you would use spot metering? In 25 years
    I have used spot metering one time and I shoot unforgiving slide film.

    Buy the 50mm F1.8 lens for $80. Forget the Sigma it will have
    no resale value and may not be compatible with future Canon
    bodies.If you need a wider lens I suggest the discontinued
    Canon 22-55mm lens for $125 or so used.
    Rob
     
    ROBMURR, Apr 21, 2004
    #7
  8. James Cloud

    z-one-b Guest

    z-one-b, Apr 21, 2004
    #8
  9. James Cloud

    Mike Guest

    Spot metering is important for B&W shooters practicing zone-system type
    techniques for contrast control.
     
    Mike, Apr 21, 2004
    #9
  10. James Cloud

    James Cloud Guest

    Ok, I made up my mind;)

    I am getting the Maxuum 5 with Minolta 28-100mm/f3.5-5.6 Lens from
    this place: http://www.central-camera.com/minolta/slr/2163-910.htm for
    $225, which includes free shipping and a couple of junk items like a
    holster bag and an SF-1 flash.

    The bundled lens deal is too good to pass up, therefore I convinced
    myself the Sigma lens is not worth the extra money compared to Minolta
    OEM lens. (They may be just as good, but nevertheless, not worth the
    extra money).

    20 years ago I was using a manual camera with a single lens because I
    didn't have two nickels to rub together, literally;) so you can tell
    I'm thrilled! Thank you for your help!

    James
     
    James Cloud, Apr 21, 2004
    #10
  11. James Cloud

    James Cloud Guest

    :)
     
    James Cloud, Apr 21, 2004
    #11
  12. James Cloud

    Tony Spadaro Guest

    Not to me. I don't find spot meters to be of much value at all. I would go
    with whichever has the features you want though so long as you have the
    features you need - and both cameras have that. Antohter factor would be
    "handiness". Try each out - one may scream I'm the caemra for you at you, or
    may scream I'll frustrate your every move.
     
    Tony Spadaro, Apr 21, 2004
    #12
  13. James Cloud

    Tony Spadaro Guest

    And teh zone system is useless on 35mm.
     
    Tony Spadaro, Apr 21, 2004
    #13
  14. James Cloud

    Dallas Guest

    James Cloud said:
    Buy the best lens you can afford and then get the cheapest body you can to
    make use of the glass.

    If I had to do it all over again, I would have spent less on bodies and
    more on getting good glass.
     
    Dallas, Apr 21, 2004
    #14
  15. James Cloud

    Tony Spadaro Guest

    No Rebel has ever had spot meters - there is a partial meter I think - but
    no spot.
     
    Tony Spadaro, Apr 21, 2004
    #15
  16. James Cloud

    David Chien Guest

    The three models I listed above are selling for about the same price
    Any are fine cameras -- lots of features in all of them to keep most
    people happy for years.

    Any model that has spot metering, AE/AF lock, flash & EV exposure
    comp., depth-of-field preview, etc. -- extra features, will be
    particularly nice if you're expanding your photography later on.

    In-viewfinder display of the AF point locked on by the camera is
    particularly nice to have, as is fast adjustment of the AF point in use
    (eg. spot AF or select AF).

    See www.photographyreview.com for lots and lots of user reviews on
    each camera (they're all ~4.5 out of 5 ranked, so you can't go wrong
    with any of them).

    ---

    ( That said, I'd pickup the Canon for the faster, quieter AF on the USM
    lenses (canon) if you're going to expand lenses in the future to much
    better & expensive ones from Canon. Other models tend to be slower,
    noisier. However, if you're going with 3rd party lenses, don't worry
    about this point.... eg. if you're going to go with a nice Tamron
    28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di or long-zoom Tamron 28-200/300 later on. Minolta
    lens choices are the smallest of the bunch. The USM motor driven Canons
    are the quietest, fastest AF lenses around, in general. )

    ( Same with external flash systems. Nikon or Canon here will be better
    and more flexible in having more intelligent wireless flashes, esp.
    multiple off cameras... Nikon SB flashes have been well tested and
    known to provide excellent results. )

    ---

    $200 for a Ti?!?

    How about as low as $158, and $168 from a known dealer that does well
    (buydig.com). See listings at:

    http://shopper.cnet.com/Canon_EOS_R...9-30402857.html?tag=ob_50&orderby=50&sort=asc

    ---

    Maxxum 5 at $119.88
    http://www.jandr.com/JRProductPage....UM50QD&JRSource=zdnet.datafeed.MIN+MAXXUM50QD

    J&R is very, very reliable and reputable.

    ---

    Nikon N75 at $152 ($155 buydig.com)
    http://shopper.cnet.com/N75_35mm_SL...9-30425565.html?tag=ob_50&orderby=50&sort=asc

    -------------

    Out of the three here, I'd say if you want the most for the money,
    I'd buy the Maxxum 5 (excellent 14 point exposure system that's almost
    foolproof) for about $120, the lens for about $110, and still have $70
    left over for another cheap lens or film & accessories. Or simply walk
    spending only $230.

    Or if you're 'smart' buy the lens on ebay.com new for $89
    (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=3342&item=3810947611&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW)

    and you'll be at $120 (camera) + $90 (lens) = $210.

    ----
     
    David Chien, Apr 21, 2004
    #16
  17. James Cloud

    Alan Browne Guest

    Nonesense.

    The poster said, "practicing zone-system type techniques" which is
    wholly valid. You can easily locate the highlights, shadows and mid
    tones and assure the exposure setting will record them per needs. It
    can even be done on a reduced basis for narrow exposure range films like
    slide, as long as you understand the limits of the film and geometry of
    the spot meter in the camera.



    -- >>
     
    Alan Browne, Apr 21, 2004
    #17
  18. James Cloud

    Alan Browne Guest

    Just 'cause the film won't forgive is no reason to kill it.
     
    Alan Browne, Apr 21, 2004
    #18
  19. James Cloud

    Mike Guest

    Are you an alias for Michael Scarpitti?

    I agree and don't practice the ZS for 35mm because I prefer to change
    contrast in the printing stage (even though it has more limitations than
    changing contrast through development).

    However it certainly isn't useless for 35mm

    a) most people will shoot several pics of the same/similar scene contrast
    before switching scenes. Minor variations can be accounted for in the
    printing stage.

    b) many don't care about wasting 75% of the exposures on a 35mm film
    cartridge. A $3 roll of film isn't gonna stop them from loading a new
    roll after taking 5 exposures

    c) some are crazy enough to carry multiple bodies

    d) some are crazy enough to try this technique (which I've tried as
    well). When scene contrast changes, take off the lens and put the camera
    on the Bulb setting. Hold down the shutter, reach through the camera to
    place a sticker on the film! Then when unloading in the dark, cut the
    35mm strip into multiple pieces corresponding to difference scene
    contrasts. Develop accordingly.
     
    Mike, Apr 21, 2004
    #19
  20. James Cloud

    James Cloud Guest

    Thanks everyone for your advises. I went to Tony's site and read the
    "whole" thing. Based on everything I read so far, I deduced:

    1. Minolta Maxxum 5 is a good body and a good value. Canon is good
    too, just to be politically correct here.
    2. Buying the kit is a better value than buying camera and lens
    separately.
    3. Spend some money on real lens. (I will, but probably after another
    rounding of funding approved by my significant other;)

    So I am all gungho and armed with my Amex card, I made the call for my
    Maxxum 5. What do you know, there's always a monkey wrench in there:
    the sales person told me, for the "same" amount of money, I could be
    getting the Maxxum 70 QD instead of the Maxxum 5 QD. 70 being the
    newer model, but I have no idea if it's better. Went to Populare
    Photography, read the review, still no idea.

    And in addition, for the "same" amount of money, I could get TWO sigma
    lenses (28-80mm, and 100-300mm) instead of one Minolta 28-100mm lens.

    That's two monkey wrenches for me to sort out! So, what would you do?
    Choice A) Maxxum 5 with OEM lens
    B) Maxxum 70 with two Sigma lens
    Choice B is about $40 more, aka, the "same" amount of money according
    to the sales person.

    Thanks!
    Steve
     
    James Cloud, Apr 21, 2004
    #20
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