Canon IS lenses

Discussion in 'Canon' started by Mother, Dec 30, 2007.

  1. Mother

    Mother Guest

    I'm having a problems taking nature photographs. I'm using a Canon
    Digital Rebel with a Tamron 28-300mm lens. The problem is blurred
    pictures, that I know is caused by camera shake. Most of our photos
    are taken under moderate to heavy tree cover and 20 to 40 feet away
    with the subject being river otters.
    Would a similar Canon lens with Image Stabilzation help?
    Thanks
    Mike



    Go ask your mother!
     
    Mother, Dec 30, 2007
    #1
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  2. it might do in terms of lighting etc, but if you are trying to shoot a
    subject that's contstantly moving, I don't think IS will do much for
    you...try using a tripod or a fast shutter speed and cranking up the ISO
     
    the_niner_nation, Dec 30, 2007
    #2
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  3. Mother

    Doug Guest

    Tamron is also making an IS 28-300 now.

    Doug
     
    Doug, Dec 30, 2007
    #3
  4. Mother

    Mr. Strat Guest

    A tripod is less expensive.
     
    Mr. Strat, Dec 30, 2007
    #4
  5. Camera shake will be minimised by IS but subject movement won't. You may try
    using a high ISO so that the shutter speed can be kept high. That will
    reduce blurring due to both camera shake & subject movement. The noise can
    be later tackled in post-processing.
     
    Gautam Majumdar, Dec 30, 2007
    #5
  6. What is the apperture of this lens?

    What shutter speed and apperture are you using? Check the EXIF data to find
    out.
    The rule of thumb is that for handheld photography at 300mm you should use
    1/300s or faster, on a DX camera like the Rebel this translates to even
    1/450s. Unless this is a very fast lens (unlikely for a Tamron 11x zoom) you
    need a lot of bright sunlight to get that.
    Probably somewhat. It will probably reduce camera shake by 2-3 f-stops, but
    of course it will not freeze the otters, so you will still get motion blurr.

    A much cheaper and IMO better option would be to use a tripod instead of
    trying to handhold a slow shutter speed at 300mm.

    And you may have even better luck wich a faster lens. Unfortunately those
    are really expensive at that focus range.

    jue
     
    Jürgen Exner, Dec 30, 2007
    #6
  7. Mother

    Colin_D Guest

    You might find that a monopod would be a better solution, leaving the
    camera reasonably mobile yet restraining camera shake. Tripods,
    monopods and IS lenses will do nothing, though, for subject movement.
    Only a faster shutter speed will help this, meaning high ISO or a faster
    lens.

    Colin D.
     
    Colin_D, Dec 30, 2007
    #7
  8. There is no similar Canon lens but a similar Tamron lens is highly
    affordable - the new VC version of the 28-300mm - and also pretty good
    optically, much improved over the older non-stabilised version.

    However, it won't stop otters moving, and they move very quickly. I have
    had trouble shooting sharp pictures of otters playing in a zoo (I visit
    them regularly) because even a slight head or paw movement demands
    1/500th, they are so rapid.

    David

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    David Kilpatrick, Dec 30, 2007
    #8
  9. Mother

    just bob Guest

    IMO, the tripod or IS will only help if your Otters are motionless.

    Try this before spending money on either:

    Try shooting in shutter priority (Tv mode) at 1/1000 of a second. If the
    image is too dark, raise your ISO. I think you will also like what this
    shutter speed does to water as it will freeze the droplets.
     
    just bob, Dec 31, 2007
    #9
  10. Mother

    TH O Guest

    Wildlife shots with slow zooms ... this brings back painful memories!

    In addition to the other suggestions, what time are you taking the
    pictures at? Switching to the middle of the day will increase light and
    allow faster shutter speeds. Decreasing the ISO (400, 800 but it affects
    picture quality) and using a monopod or tripod will also help.
     
    TH O, Dec 31, 2007
    #10
  11. Mother

    Yoshi Guest


    You're using a 28-300 lens and wondering why your photos suck? Amazing.

    Yoshi
     
    Yoshi, Dec 31, 2007
    #11
  12. You need a good lens for shooting natures. Wide angel for landscape and
    something like
    http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-500mm-f-4.0-L-IS-USM-Lens-Review.aspx
    for birds etc.

    See also:
    http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Lenses/Canon-Wildlife-Lens.aspx
    http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Lenses/Canon-Landscape-Lens.aspx
     
    Jørn Dahl-Stamnes, Dec 31, 2007
    #12
  13. Mother

    TH O Guest

    He's using an entry level camera and an entry level lens. He's not going
    to go purchase a $5,000+ lens today after reading your post. He's
    received some great suggestions about how to best work around the
    limitations of his existing lens. As he gains more experience he'll be
    in a position to know exactly what lenses will be more effective for his
    type of photography.
     
    TH O, Dec 31, 2007
    #13
  14. Trust me that Canon lens has some of the most atrocious bokeh you ever want
    to see. I'll give it one thing; its inexpensive price tag is all it got
    going for itself. Canon cut too many corners. How much more would it have
    cost Canon to put 9 aperture blades in that thing like Nikon? There isn't a
    500mm lens out there that could even come close to the quality and
    performance of the old Nikkor.





    Rita
     
    Rita Ä Berkowitz, Dec 31, 2007
    #14
  15. Mother

    TH O Guest

    And what exactly does that have to do with this thread about helping a
    Canon user and his entry level lens?
     
    TH O, Dec 31, 2007
    #15
  16. Nada. It's just the yada-yada guy going on. Always blowing hard, always
    hyperbolic, and never accurate.
     
    John McWilliams, Dec 31, 2007
    #16
  17. Mother

    Scott W Guest

    My wife and I have two lenses that would might work well for the kind
    of shooting you are doing. She like to use the Canon 70-300 IS
    lenses, not bad optics and very good IS. I like to use the Canon
    300mm IS L, not bad IS and really good optics, I also have a 1.4X tele-
    converter to use with it.

    There are better lenses but the cost starts to go up.

    IS will help some with getting the shoot, but if you are seeing a lot
    of blur in your photos using a non-IS lens you will likely see at
    least some using a IS lens. My rule of thumb is that if I take 10
    shots without IS and 10 shots with the IS both on and off, my worst
    shot with IS on will be about as good as my best shot with IS off.

    I would suggest you rent a lens or two for a week and see how well it
    works for you.

    Scott
     
    Scott W, Dec 31, 2007
    #17
  18. Mother

    -hh Guest

    I'm guessing that its no faster than f/5.6

    Which should also reveal what ISO he is set at.

    Agreed. But since Mike mentions moderate/heavy tree cover, its
    unlikely.

    Even cheaper would be to bump up the ISO (if it hasn't already been
    done).


    My inclination would be to first try some shots with the existing gear
    on a monopod and ISO pumped up. That should give an indication of if
    you're close enough that the extra few stops from IS are worth the
    investment cost. While one is considering this, one can also decide
    if the solution also needs a faster ($$$) lens...ie, a 70-200 f/2.8 IS
    if the full 300m reach isn't needed would pick up another 2 stops.


    -hh
     
    -hh, Jan 1, 2008
    #18
  19. Mother

    Yoshi Guest

    Yoshi, Jan 1, 2008
    #19
  20. Funny... it was just a misspelled word. It should be wide angle... ;-)
     
    Jørn Dahl-Stamnes, Jan 1, 2008
    #20
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