chemical advice needed svp

Discussion in 'Darkroom Developing and Printing' started by Lloyd Erlick, Jun 25, 2007.

  1. Lloyd Erlick

    Lloyd Erlick Guest

    June 25, 2007, from Lloyd Erlick,

    Last year I got some Glycin and made a lot of
    prints using the Edwal 102 print developer
    formula. I substituted potassium sulfite for
    the sodium salt in the original formula.
    Here it is:

    Edwal 102 — Glycin-Only Print Developer,
    partial-Potassium version,
    Working Solution

    Water 1000 ml
    Potassium Sulfite anhydrous 25 g
    Sodium Phosphate Tribasic 30 g
    Glycin 6 g
    Potassium Bromide 0.5-6 g (I use 3

    NOTE: Potassium Sulfite is produced in
    solution by combining Potassium Metabisulfite
    2 parts and Potassium Hydroxide one part to
    yield three parts Potassium Sulfite. This is
    approximate but close to exact (error around
    five per cent).

    For the above formula, combine 17.7 grams
    Potassium Metabisulfite plus 9 grams
    Potassium Hydroxide, for 25.4 grams Potassium

    I'd like advice from those with confidence in
    their chemical acumen on two points:

    1) Is the above method of producing potassium
    sulfite in solution correct? I think I might
    have learned it from this forum, but I

    2) I'd like to go the next step into
    Potassium Land, and replace Trisodium
    Phosphate with Potassium Phosphate
    Monohydrate (I just bought almost four
    kilograms). I'm sure the TSP is a hydrate
    too, but I don't know. It's the commonly
    available form; I got it from Canadian Tire!

    Naturally, I'd like to know how much of the
    potassium salt to use.

    Thanks for all assistance ...


    PS -- the reason for substituting potassium
    salts is that warm tone print material is
    sensitive to it. Sodium salts yield a cooler
    tone. When all sodium is replaced by
    potassium the results are very noticeably
    warmed up.

    In fact, I've found that Forte PolyWarmtone
    gets so warm as to be decidedly red (ish).
    More than even I like, too.

    My plan is to make excessively (potentially,
    at least) warm prints on Forte, and gold tone
    them. I've found gold toner changes the image
    tone to a very neutral, and attractive,
    black; I've only done this on Ilford MGW
    Warmtone so far. I'm hoping the Forte will
    remain at least slightly warm after gold

    Thanks again to all.

    Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
    telephone: 416-686-0326
    Lloyd Erlick, Jun 25, 2007
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  2. Lloyd Erlick

    sreenath Guest

    Potassium metabisulfite is used along with hydroxide during Rodinal
    (or its clones) preparation. So this must be right.
    sodium salt, and when it is desired to use potassium sulfite, it is
    prepared in the solution by using potassium metabisulfite".

    Perhaps potassium metabisulfite keeps better than sulfite?

    Aside: I use p-aminophenol in paper developer when I want warm tones
    with Ilford MG Warmtone(Fiber) paper. The tones are distinctly warm,
    but not reddish as you seem to be getting with Glycin and potassium

    Do you know of any way to get brownish/redish tones on Ilford MG
    Warmtone without Glycin? I can't get Glycin in India.

    sreenath, Jun 26, 2007
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  3. I have a similar problem here in Israel. Just out of curiosity what
    do you use?

    A method that has worked for me is to have friends or relatives buy
    it for me in the U.S. and ship it here surface mail. Before 9/11
    no one really cared what was in your baggage since then almost all
    photographic chemicals are forbidden to be in luggage, even if
    it is checked nor can it be sent airmail.

    Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jun 26, 2007
  4. Try Hydroquinone-only developers.

    Gevaert 262:

    warm water 125 F 750 ml
    sodium sulfite 70 g
    hydroquinone 25 g
    sodium carbonate 90 g
    potassium bromide 2 g
    cold water to make 1000 ml

    Dilute 1:6, paper will need lots of exposure at this dilution.
    Nicholas O. Lindan, Jun 26, 2007
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