Cleaning my lens

Discussion in '35mm Cameras' started by April Lyons via PhotoKB.com, Mar 13, 2005.

  1. I noticed that my lens on my camera will not stay dust free for a second. I
    can clean it with the little brush and with the tissue. But the dust just
    gets moved around. I don't have any of the liquid stuff. Will it hurt to
    use the cleaner that I bought for my glasses?
     
    April Lyons via PhotoKB.com, Mar 13, 2005
    #1
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  2. April Lyons via PhotoKB.com

    chrlz Guest

    Just stop fussing over it!! Every time you clean your lens, no matter
    how careful you are, you will be leaving micro scratches, eroding the
    coating.., and those problems are far worse than dust specks, which are
    normally irrelevant. It takes a LOT of dust to affect an image, and
    even then, you would probably only notice if you are shooting against
    bright light.

    Don't use the glasses cleaner, unless it specifically states that it is
    safe on coated lenses, and even then, only to remove nasty greasy
    smudges! If you must improvise - for the dust, stick with your lens
    brush or upgrade it to an antistatic one. Microfibre cloths (ones that
    have no polishes or other contaminants) are good for worse problems, eg
    greasy fingerprints. When using a cloth or lens tissue, GENTLE is the
    word - `huffing` on the lens will help, and the humidity you create
    will also reduce the static cling problem.
     
    chrlz, Mar 13, 2005
    #2
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  3. First, don't worry be happy. A little dust is not the end of the world.

    How old is that brush? How much dust is now on it? "Tissue?" Is that
    lens tissue or what? Fresh lens tissue each time. Tear it in half roll it
    up so it forms a brush.

    But don't overdo it. Think about the subject more and the camera less.
     
    Joseph Meehan, Mar 13, 2005
    #3
  4. April Lyons via PhotoKB.com

    Rowan Guest

    Rowan, Mar 13, 2005
    #4
  5. April Lyons via PhotoKB.com

    Bob Hickey Guest

    I hate to clean lenses; so what I do is, clean them once, and keep a filter
    on them. After that I wash the filter under the faucet, and throw them away
    if they get bad. Bob Hickey
     
    Bob Hickey, Mar 13, 2005
    #5
  6. None of that stuff you're using is strong enough-- and ignore the other
    responses to your question.

    Try some 000 or 0000 grade steel wool, that'll fix ya' right up. Make sure
    you press hard and move it over the surface in a circular motion.
     
    Patrick Cleburne, Mar 13, 2005
    #6
  7. Solvents like isopropylic alcohol (i.p.a.), wich is often used in cleaning
    fluid for glasses, are not agressive for coated lenses. The coating
    consists of metals, wich cannot solve in i.p.a..
    Gijs
     
    Gijs Rietveld, Mar 13, 2005
    #7
  8. April Lyons via PhotoKB.com

    Peter Irwin Guest

    Here are my solutions:

    For light dust, use a blower bulb. An ear syringe from the drug store
    makes a great blower bulb. This cannot harm the lens and is very
    effective against light dust.

    For really dirty lenses, I use q-tips and 99% isopropyl alcohol.
    Dip the q-tip in alcohol and start cleaning gently in the middle
    of the lens and work in a circular motion towards the edge. Change
    q-tips often, you don't want to rub dirt into the front of your
    lens. I would normally use half a dozen q-tips for one lens.
    You should not need to do this very often, but I will do this
    with a lens bought used or with a lens on which someone has left
    their fingerprint.

    For in-between jobs, breathe gently on the front of the lens
    so that you get a light fog, and clean with a folded fresh piece
    of Kodak lens tissue. One package of Kodak tissue should last
    many years. If you need more than a blower-bulb on a regular
    basis, you should figure out why your lenses keep getting
    dirty.

    Peter.
     
    Peter Irwin, Mar 13, 2005
    #8
  9. I have never tried to clean the coating off of a lens, but I cleaned the
    anti-glare coating from my computer monitor, and it was very tough stuff. I
    had to soak it in something called, "goo-gone" for several hours, and then
    rub it for a long time with a goo-gone soaked rag before it would come off.
    None of the other solvents I tried would work at all, including alcohol and
    Windex......If lens coatings are that tough, a little brushing with an
    artists brush isn't going to hurt them.....
     
    William Graham, Mar 13, 2005
    #9
  10. 1. Don't use eyeglass cleaner.
    2. A little dust won't hurt.
    3. Buy a UV or skylight filter for the lens and a BLOWER brush.
    4. Buy a bottle of Kodak lens cleaning solution to go along with the
    lens cleaning tissues. They are CAMERA LENS CLEANING tissues aren't
    they?
    5. Follow the directions on the bottle, ie. Blow & brush the lens to
    get the dust and grit off. Put one drop of cleaner on a crumpled
    tissue. Gently wipe in circles from the center. Dry with another
    crumpled tissue. Clean the inside surface of the filter and put it on.
    Keeping the clean surfaces face down while working in a fairly dust
    free area (bathrooms and kitchens are better) helps. Leave the filter
    on and don't clean it too often either.
    6. Train yourself to not touch the front of your lens and explain to
    your dog while taking those cute wide angle extreme closeups that he is
    not to touch your lens with his nose either.
     
    bob.kirkpatrick, Mar 15, 2005
    #10
  11. April Lyons via PhotoKB.com

    Bandicoot Guest

    [SNIP]
    LOL!

    Pigs are even worse for that - I know...


    Peter
     
    Bandicoot, Mar 15, 2005
    #11
  12. What makes 'Kodak Lens Cleaning Solution' and 'Camera Lens Cleaning Tissues'
    so special?
    Price?
    Gijs
     
    Gijs Rietveld, Mar 16, 2005
    #12
  13. April Lyons via PhotoKB.com

    Alan Browne Guest

    Given how cheap both products are, it's not the price. The 16 oz ( 473
    ml) bottle cost me under $10.00 3 or 4 years ago, and I still have 95%
    or more of the product. The tissues are $1.99 for a pak. I have two
    packs and haven't finished the first.

    It's a good product, effective when used properly and a PITA when used
    excessively. I just wish it had been available in a 2 or 4 Oz bottle
    instead. (It may be, but not where/when I bought it).

    Microfibre cloths are my first choice for cleaning filters and lens
    front ends. But when there is something stubborn, the KLC is fine.

    Cheers,
    Alan.
     
    Alan Browne, Mar 16, 2005
    #13
  14. Kodak lens cleaning solution is formulated to not attack lens
    coatings, lens body materials including various plastics, or adhesives
    while dissolving dirt and oils and leave no residue. This is not true
    for many solvents and things like eyeglass cleaner. KLCS used to be
    primarily a weak ammonium carbonate solution in distilled water. It
    may still be.

    The Kodak lens cleaning tissues are very clean. No acid, no oil, no
    aloe, no lanolin, no antifog chemicals, just tissue. That by itself
    makes them almost unique. They have a carefully designed balance
    between softness and stiffness to avoid scratches yet allow cleaning
    without too much pressure. They have large open pores between the
    fibers to allow remaining dust and grit particles to be trapped inside
    the tissue rather than staying on the surface against the lens. They
    are also packaged to stay clean and dust free.

    Lenses are fragile and the largest part of your investment because
    they are almost totally responsible for the quality of your images.
    Why skimp a few cents when cleaning your $500-$1000 lenses.
     
    bob.kirkpatrick, Mar 17, 2005
    #14
  15. April Lyons via PhotoKB.com

    Alan Browne Guest

    Though the ratio is not given, the 'ingredient' list says:

    -Water (one assumes a clean or cleaned source, neutral, mineral-free)
    -Amonium carbonate
    -nonionic surfactant
    -cationic surfactant

    Cheers,
    Alan
     
    Alan Browne, Mar 17, 2005
    #15
  16. The fact that they've been used safely for many decades by many people.
    May not ultimately be the "best" but they work, are universally known
    and available, and cause no damage. Can't say the same for other, more
    "modern" formulas.
     
    Scott Schuckert, Mar 18, 2005
    #16
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