Cold Weather Photography

Discussion in '35mm Cameras' started by Sarah Hergen, Aug 6, 2003.

  1. Sarah Hergen

    Sarah Hergen Guest

    Greeting folks, from Alaska. I was wondering if you could help me
    select either a camera/film combo (35mm or 120) to photograph the
    great outdoors in the freezing winter here.

    Or should I go digital?

    What format would be better for extreme cold weather?

    Can a digital camera survive in sub-zero temperatures?

    Am I better off with film? If so, what would be a good film choice?

    I would like my results to look something like this:

    http://www.winternet.com/~redright/scatsite/scatpix/dpandl_page/scatrat7.jpg

    I am open to a variety of choices.

    Here are some other possibilities:

    http://www.winternet.com/~redright/scatsite/scatpix/dpandl_page/dump404.jpg

    http://www.winternet.com/~redright/scatsite/scatpix/dpandl_page/dump405.jpg

    http://www.winternet.com/~redright/scatsite/scatpix/dpandl_page/Levis06.jpg

    http://www.winternet.com/~redright/scatsite/scatpix/dpandl_page/3QTFUN-4.JPG

    http://www.winternet.com/~redright/scatsite/scatpix/dpandl_page/dump128.jpg

    Any suggestions?
     
    Sarah Hergen, Aug 6, 2003
    #1
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  2. Sarah Hergen

    McLeod Guest

    Stop crossposting and feeding the damn trolls.


     
    McLeod, Aug 6, 2003
    #2
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  3. Sarah Hergen

    Polytone Guest

    Alaska sounds a little too cold for me in the winter to be outside taking
    pictures. Wouldn't the wildlife be easier to spot in the summer? What are
    the 24 hour darkness/light seasons up there?
     
    Polytone, Aug 6, 2003
    #3
  4. Sarah Hergen

    Paul W. Ross Guest

    Well, here in the lower 48, we can get some cold weather too!

    My experience has been that I'm better off with something that does
    NOT use batteries, as the available power drops drastically when they
    are cold -- look at the temperature specifications on your typical
    modern camera.

    This suggests a classic rangefinder or older SLR, well-cleaned, of
    course.

    I keep my camera in next to my body inside my parka, when skiing, or
    hiking out-of-doors in very cold weather (zero and sub-zero).

    The other issue is the high level of UV -- a UV, or better yet, pale
    yellow skylight filter is a must. You might also consider a circular
    polarizer for dealing with glare.

    Also gloves or mittens that you can easily get off and on to
    manipulate the camera. Travel light.
     
    Paul W. Ross, Aug 6, 2003
    #4
  5. Sarah Hergen

    Roland Guest

    You couldn't send some of that Alaska weather over here to the UK, to mix in
    with today, perhaps?
     
    Roland, Aug 6, 2003
    #5
  6. I am no expert, just lucky to have shot a few during cold weather in
    Moscow, Russia. The main consideration you need to give to the kind
    of the camera you want: can you handle a fully manual camera or do you
    have to have an automatic (in some way) one. If you think you need
    a camera that uses a battery, the main problem is that any battery
    cameras use behaves differently (usually badly) in freezing conditions.
    One solution is to keep a spare in your inner pocket and swap them at
    the sign of misbehaviour. If you use a fully manual camera, there
    will be no problem with the battery. One down.

    When camera sits in a warm room, it has some moisture in its mechanism.
    That's inevitable. What you really want to do is (a) keep moisture
    content to a minimum and (b) when transitioning between warm and cold
    conditions, bring the camera's temperature to the outside _slowly_.
    That means, keep it in a somewhat, but not extremely, thermally
    insulated packaging and let it sit outside for a while. The moisture
    will have a chance to evaporate or dissipate instead of freezing in
    the camera gears. The same on the way back into warmth. Anything
    cold attracts condensation in a warm and humid environment of our
    houses. Keep your camera in its [cold] bag for a few hours before
    unpacking.

    You need to find the camera that does not have too much grease (or the
    wrong kind of it) inside. It concerns lenses even more. Some
    lubricants tend to get more viscous when cold. Fortunately, most of
    modern cameras use either oils that don't change much or don't use any
    oils at all. My guess would be that you could contact the manufacturer
    to get more information.

    It is sometimes possible to keep the camera warm until you have to take
    a shot. Do remember, though, that even when you're outside, the moisture
    content under a few layers of your clothing is high, and putting the
    camera back after it was outside even for a minute may mean that it is
    going to attract some condensation. Keeping it cool is probably better.

    I am sure I am forgetting something. Let's hope others will chip in.

    Best of luck!

    Victor
     
    Victor Bazarov, Aug 6, 2003
    #6
  7. Sarah Hergen

    Nick Zentena Guest


    Sounds like a question for a camera expert. No?

    Nick
     
    Nick Zentena, Aug 6, 2003
    #7
  8. I don't see any sick photos. I see a bunch of WWW links which I prefer
    not to follow. If replying to questions instead of calling others names
    makes one a moron, then I am a moron.
     
    Victor Bazarov, Aug 6, 2003
    #8
  9. Sarah Hergen

    james Guest

    Victor, maybe you should follow just one of those WWW links and see what
    this IDIOT posing as a serious poster is trying to get people to look at.
    Because this person asked not only about cold weather photography , they
    asked about getting results similar to the photos at the links they (she, if
    she is a she) provided.
    That is why I did not post a direct response to this person's questions, as
    that kind of sick mind doesn't deserve photography help, they need mental
    help.
    james

     
    james, Aug 6, 2003
    #9
  10. Sarah Hergen

    Charlie D Guest

    I guess not looking at the urls and replying seriously to a sick jerk
    off does make you, shall we say, not too swift.
     
    Charlie D, Aug 6, 2003
    #10
  11. Sarah Hergen

    Nick Zentena Guest


    Sarah from Alaska is posting from a New York city dialup. Posting via
    google. Funny so did the Camera Expert. Call me untrusting but if these
    aren't the same trolls I'll eat my hat.

    Nick
     
    Nick Zentena, Aug 6, 2003
    #11
  12. Sarah Hergen

    Don Stauffer Guest

    If you are shopping for a camera, consider one with a Copal shutter.
    Copal shutters used to have a VERY good reputation for reliability and
    accuracy in cold weather.

    In some ways, digital cameras actually work better in cold, at least as
    far as long time exposures and slow shutter speeds. Either film or
    digital should stand temps okay. If it is REALLY cold, I have heard to
    take care during film advance - some films get brittle and winding them
    too fast might crack them. At least, I have heard this, but do not know
    of a specific instance where this has happened, however, I wind slowly
    just in case :)
     
    Don Stauffer, Aug 6, 2003
    #12
  13. Sarah Hergen

    Slavko Eror Guest

    I sometimes think people on this newsgroup are just plain morons. This guy
    posts a bunch of sick photos and you go into a lenghty discussion about
    which camera to use in winter.

    Dude you don't need a camera... you need therapy!
     
    Slavko Eror, Aug 6, 2003
    #13
  14. Sarah Hergen

    Charlie D Guest

    Good point.
     
    Charlie D, Aug 6, 2003
    #14
  15. Sarah Hergen

    Sarah Hergen Guest

    Thank you, Victor. That was the best advice yet.
     
    Sarah Hergen, Aug 6, 2003
    #15
  16. I don't care what whose concern is and who has what agenda.
    And please don't tell me how to respond and to whom. If you
    have nothing else to do Slavko, go ahead and piss off.
     
    Victor Bazarov, Aug 6, 2003
    #16
  17. Sarah Hergen

    Andrew Denny Guest

    There are obviously a lot of good people contributing to this thread,
    and I'm sure all think are trying to react in a decent way.

    One way is to ignore it, in a straight, wise-monkey 'see no evil' way.
    But it assumes you know in advance it is a provocation.

    The second is if you don't know it's a wind-up, or if you don't have
    time to follow links. You are then not a 'moron'; you are simply a
    kind and generous person who's been hoodwinked.

    A third reaction is to protest that those who replied to the original
    post are being morons.

    Personally I think the first way is the noblest, and the third is the
    most moronic - and I include myself for getting involved here!
     
    Andrew Denny, Aug 6, 2003
    #17
  18. Sarah Hergen

    skipcashwell Guest

    Humph! I did reply to the original post as if it was a legitimate
    info-seek - first in rec.photo.digital and also in rec.photo.equipment.35mm.
    The "links" did not interest me to "click". Anyway, Sarah's email at
    dogomania.com links to a real dog information site with a forum in which she
    is listed as a member. How do we know (other than the cross-posting) that
    the msg is a troll?
     
    skipcashwell, Aug 6, 2003
    #18
  19. Like you I seldom follow links. Answering questions, even from trolls
    is not at all bad. Others can lean from the answers and it has little or no
    effect on the trolls

    --
    Joseph E. Meehan

    26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math


     
    Joseph Meehan, Aug 6, 2003
    #19
  20. Sarah Hergen

    Slavko Eror Guest

    If you're so willing to help Victor, go ahead and show the guy how to get
    the same results as on those samples he provided.
    After all that was his main concern.

    Slavko
     
    Slavko Eror, Aug 6, 2003
    #20
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