Comparison of New Zeiss 50mm f/1.4 Nikon Mount vs. Older Nikon Normal Lenses

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by jeremy, Aug 16, 2006.

  1. jeremy

    jeremy Guest

    Of course they're not worth fixing, unless you want to keep them alive for
    sentimental reasons.

    How many pros would stake their professional reputations on old Nikons, much
    less old Pentaxes? All of those wonderful classic cameras still bring much
    gratification to aficionados, but times have changed and parts, service and
    "new" replacement bodies are not readily available. Equipment this old is
    not the kind of stuff that can be expected to take a beating.

    It is analogous to a 25 year-old automobile, that has been well-maintained
    by its owner and still is used for everyday trips. It is not the kind of
    vehicle that one would take on a 2000 mile journey.
    jeremy, Aug 21, 2006
    1. Advertisements

  2. jeremy

    Denny Guest

    OK, those of you in this thread have staked out your positions and
    declared you will defend them to the death...

    Clara is now gone to beef heaven but someone has to carry on...


    Everyone on here is experienced, literate, and opinionated... Show me
    the pictures to back up your position...
    Pro's still work with 1957 bodies and lenses because they are
    superior.. Great... Show me! Show me pictures of a pro(s) working with
    that gear, or show me your recent pictures shot with that gear that you
    sell commercially...

    Old bodies and old lenses and film are better because they are steel,
    and glass, and manually focused?... Show me the pictures...
    Borrow the latest all electronic digital wonder with plastic lens
    Use a tripod...
    Take the pictures side by side with your old camera...
    Print the pictures to the same final size (none of this scanning and
    posting a jpeg crap, even Ghod couldn't tell from that)...
    Take the comparison pictures around and ask people which they prefer
    (no fair telling them the difference before hand, and play nice)

    I know that most of you don't know... Yes you have beliefs... Beliefs
    that you got by reading someone elses opinion... But you have not
    really done the, 8X10, hang it on the wall, side by side comparison...
    If you do you are going to be surprised, very surprised...

    Don't believe me, eh... Try it... Prove me wrong...

    Denny, Aug 21, 2006
    1. Advertisements

  3. Please come back after taking reading comprehension 101...
    Chris Loffredo, Aug 21, 2006
  4. My F5 has a hand crank....It's tiny and wimpy, and I have to be careful with
    it, but it's very useable, and I use it to save battery power unless I am in
    a real big hurry to reload another roll........
    William Graham, Aug 21, 2006

  5. You'd lose that bet, at least in one instance.

    The Nikon FE can be operated with no batteries
    at all in the M90 (shutter speed) position.

    The only thing electronic on the FE is the meter and
    the shutter *timing*. The force driving the shutter
    is purely mechanical.

    My first FE went about 5 years on one pair of
    button cells. The 2nd (newer) dead FE won't
    even fire in the M90 position.

    rafe b
    Raphael Bustin, Aug 21, 2006

  6. What the eff are you going on about?

    Do you suppose that we haven't compared prints from film
    against prints from digital captures?

    rafe b
    Raphael Bustin, Aug 21, 2006
  7. jeremy

    Bandicoot Guest

    That's a good way of making the distinction.

    The lenses are as good as ever, though some more recent Pentax lenses are
    improved over the Takumar ones, others differ in little except coating,
    because they didn't need improvement. However, using screw-mount lenses on
    K-mount bodies makes little sense, as they then become manual aperture
    lenses. And the Screw mount bodies are now very long in the tooth: a body
    is much more likely to fail than a lens. Besides, when I have LX (and
    other) bodies to choose, I am seldom if ever going to prefer a simple
    Spotmatic, great though they were in their day. So the bodies really drive
    the decision: K mount bodies make using K mount lenses much more sensible.

    I still have a large collection of Takumar screw mount lenses, and three
    Spotmatic bodies. It's really for sentimental reasons that I keep them,
    but, since screws keep dust out better than bayonets, there may be a time
    when a job makes me decide to use one of these instead of something newer.
    I have ocassionally loaned out some of these lenses to students who've
    wanted to try a particular focal length, since adapters are easy to come by
    for almost any make of body. But that hardly constitutes serious use.

    Bandicoot, Aug 22, 2006
  8. jeremy

    AAvK Guest

    I think there is good reason to keep and use such lenses and bodies, as is my interest,
    for doing visual photographic art on a tripod... then the darkroom art. Saleable framed
    art. Art for art galleries, so RICH can people can buy it!
    AAvK, Aug 22, 2006
  9. I have a small collection of Nikon cameras and in general they just work.

    There are two series that sort of stop working. The first is the Nikkormat,
    where the meter-coupling starts failing. This is a mechanical problem,
    that doesn't prevent you from using the camera. You just lose the
    light meter.

    The second problem I have is with the F4. For some reason, the aperture
    closing mechanism needs a CLA, otherwise it is too slow. This is a nasty
    one because it looks like the camera works, except the all your images
    will be overexposed.

    I got rid of my FE when the ISO settings disc started failing. Like the
    Nikkormat, the camera was still usable but the light meter became a problem.

    Then there is the occasional MD-12 (motor drive) with dirty battery contacts.

    I doubt that anything can be said in general about whether electronical or
    mechanical failures are more likely. It all depends on the design. Robust
    over designed electronics can live very long and can be quite reparable.
    The same goes for mechanical parts.

    If anything, you have to study the track record of the device you are
    going to buy. Find out what the weak parts are and make sure that those
    parts are available of can be repaired.
    Philip Homburg, Aug 22, 2006
  10. This can be the camera equivalent of the scratchy volume control* -
    a bit of contact cleaner can sometimes make everything 'new'

    * The volume control analogy isn't quite right - 1/2 the problem
    is usually leaky electrolytic caps: for low noise you can't have
    DC current flowing through the potentiometer wiper. So if
    contact cleaner didn't work on the old radio ...
    Nicholas O. Lindan, Aug 22, 2006
  11. The difference is that with a volume control dial on an amplifier you
    can usually find a good spot that sort of gives the volume you like.

    Parts of the lightmeter have to work correctly, or you can't rely on
    the meter.
    Philip Homburg, Aug 22, 2006
  12. jeremy

    no_name Guest

    Well, if you happen run into a surplus of 'em, share the wealth bro.


    These are my views. If you've got a problem with it, you can blame it on
    me, but this is what I think. I am not the official spokes-person for
    any Government, Commercial or Educational institution.

    no_name, Aug 22, 2006
  13. jeremy

    jeremy Guest

    And, can someone that makes his living from his equipment afford to be
    playing around with "scratchy volume controls" getting in the way of his
    taking photos? I don't think so.

    That old stuff is fine for non-critical use, but it can't cut it for most
    professional use.
    jeremy, Aug 22, 2006
  14. Your record is skipping - maybe you should get a new needle...
    Chris Loffredo, Aug 22, 2006
  15. He nailed it, is that a problem?
    Floyd L. Davidson, Aug 22, 2006
  16. jeremy

    Bandicoot Guest

    Well, I agree, though both the galleries and the rich people can be hard to
    track down and even harder to cultivate. ;-(

    Even then though, when I have LX bodies and Pentax K-mount lenses, there's
    no advantage - to me - in using Spotmatics and Takumar screw-mount lenses.
    If my main 35mm system was one that stuck me with lousy lenses, maybe using
    the Takumars instead for fine-art work would make sense, but that isn't the
    case for me. Still, most of my fine-art work is done on 6x9 up, not 35mm

    Bandicoot, Aug 23, 2006
  17. jeremy

    AAvK Guest


    Have you ever read this? and the top link "The
    50mm Lens and Metaphysical Doubt" ?

    If not, I think you should. And I think you're way off base in your reply here, here is why:

    Mr. Rockwell posted genuine results of a comparison test made to an average, and basic
    quality Japanese-made lens with a "great big fancy German name" on it, which you would
    trust to be the BEST because of that "great big fancy German name" on it. Without
    knowing the truth about it.

    Compare that reality with what you say in your reply, if you can dice up the difference...
    because it's obvious you didn't read it, Therefore you DON'T know the truth about it.

    He gives a free help to the public with nothing forced on you. You COULD appreciate
    that, in retrospect. Because there is no way I would trust you for the way you think.
    AAvK, Sep 3, 2006
    1. Advertisements

Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.