Contrast problem with Durst Laborator

Hi,

I have a problem getting hard contrasty prints with my Durst Laborator 1000.
I have a condenser head and use Agfa multicontrast FB paper with above the
lens filters from Ilford. In recent months I seem not to be getting the
contrast from prints consistent with the higher paper grade filters and am
wondering whether this might be attributable to an old tired bulb.

The bulb in it is a rather large 4 1/2" diameter thing marked "p 3/15 Atlas
110V - 200W". Can anyone confirm my suspicions about the bulb or offer any
other explanation. Also I'd like to replace the bulb and wonder what
suitable modern bulb alternatives would be suitable? Do I need something
that diameter for even illumination (I have the full set of condensers)?

What are my options regarding a cold light solution for this enlarger (on
the cheap preferably)?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
John

 

First look in your lens to be sure you don't have a fungus problem
killing your contrast. Then be sure the filters are clean and not
faded out. The bulb I've never heard of having an effect on the
contrast.

 

I also suggest checking the lens. Shine a flashlight through it and
see if its hazy inside. The only other suggestion is to get a new set
of filters. Even though the set you have looks OK to the eye it may no
longer have the right transmission values. The eye is not very good at
judging the actual transmission of filters.
I've used Agfa paper with both Kodak and Ilford filters with good
results although the contrast values vary a little between them. I
think Agfa has their own set but I never saw any for sale.

Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA

 

Is this the same stock of paper? Agfa MCC is known to loose contrast
with aging faster than one might be used to.

best

Stefan

 

They used to be available for sale here but I get the impression that Agfa
has stopped making them.

Nick

 

Has your mixing box yellowed with age?

-Peter

 

The bulbs do loose contrast with age. The GE ph-213 version will
loose a grade of contrast and 1 stop of speed as it gets toward the
end of its life. Also, check for safelight fog, using the standard
practice of giving the paper about 1/3 of the normal exposure you
would for a specific negative. Then keep in the easel, and put an
opaque object on it. wait 5 to 6 minutes and develop. If you see the
area where you had the opaque thing, you have safelight fog, which
will also, and even faster, fog when the paper is in the developer. (a
way to make sure the test above is accurate is to develop in total
darkness. Its easy to do.)

Alexis

www.alexisneel.com

 

Don't have a mixing box (don't think so anyway). Have a big bulb, a big
clean mirror at 45 degrees, and a pair of various sized condensers before
the neg holder. Is the enlarger missing something? ( well I know its missing
a sheet of IR sheilding glass in the filter drawer but I haven't melted
anything yet).

 

Might be a dud batch right enough. Thanks.

 

Thanks for those tips. I think I'd like to get a new bulb and a new set of
filters and a fresh box of paper. What is the correct currently available
bulb to get for a Durst Laborator 1000. Is that GE ph-213 a good choice?
John

 

I'm not sure, you'd have to check what kind of bulb you need. The
GE-ph213 is a regular screw in type bulbe, like for a lamp, just with
the name and model number on the side not on te end. It has about a
3.5 hour usage life.

Don't Durst's use a long, narrow halogen type bulb? I know the 5x7
one I used did.

Alexis

 

I eventually found the instructions for the thing and it doesn't list a
specific bulb, but states an opal lamp bulb at least 3.5" in diameter is
required for 135mm and longer lenses (that's me - or 2.5" for 105mm or
less). PH213 seems to be 2 5/8" in diameter according to
http://donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b.pl/ph213.html so would do for smaller
formats, but I do a fair bit of 4x5.

The instructions do mention halogen point source light units but with these
you are supposed to use a surface coated reflecting mirror and coated
versions of the condensers.

 

I eventually found the instructions for the thing and it doesn't list a

hmm, i suspect you can get away with any cheap opal bulb of the correct
wattage, as the L1000 is designed in such a way that the bulb stands upright
and the label printing on the bulbs do not "seem" to affect much the light
source... of course this is my unproven suspicion only : )

on a side note, my used L1000 does not have a filter drawer....: (
can you tell me where is the drawer located ?
( not the one missing on mine, but where is your's located : )

Thanks
Lam

 

"Real" bulbs for Durst are very thickly opalized as well as being quite
squat. Thorn is the brand name in Europe. The "filter slot" might be the
HAG filter (heat absorbing glass). The original post was about a L 1000
wasn't it?