EOS 300D vs. EOS 350D

Hi guys.
I'm just an average amateur photograph.
Now I have EOS 500N with EF 35-80mm 1:4-5,6 and EF 80-2001:4,5-5,6 II, which
I would like to change with digital SLR camera.
Which digital camera is best for my needs?
Should I wait to buy 350D, or 300D is just OK for me?
Thnx.

 

For the small difference, get the 350, well worth it.

Jean

 

Since you don't seem to have a significant investment in Canon lenses,
why not look at the Nikon D70 as well? Btw, I own a Canon 300D and am
satisfied with it.

- Siddhartha

 

Question!!

Do you use the hacked firmware, or are you running it "stock???"

My interest is the difference between the NEW Drebel and the Old Drebel. I
don't consider the difference between 6mp and 8mp to be important enough to
go for the 350 over the 300.

It seems to me that the 300 w/firmware hack would give me everything I need,
but Im looking for someone who has used the hack to fill me in.

Thanks in advance

 

I use the 300D with the firmware hack and the one thing that doesn't quite
work is the selectable AF modes. That alone would steer me towards the
350D.

The other couple of items that would favor the 350D is selectable metering
and the almost instant on.

JMHO

 

Yep, put in the hacked firmware the very next day. There are several
threads on dpreview forums discussing the hack and I don't recall
coming across anyone who reported a problem with the hack. And although
the hacked firmware voids warranty, no one's reported being returned
the camera by Canon for using the hacked firmware when sent for repairs
under warranty.

All functions work as advertised. Just make sure your batteries don't
die while you are doing the upgrade and everything should be fine.

- Siddhartha

 

I never got it clearly as to when to switch between the various AF
modes. Could you explain?

Yes, if the difference is $200 then I don't mind paying it for the
extra MP (however small it maybe) and improved manual control. That
said, I am a bit disappointed in the decision to decrease the camera
size. Some reviews also say it feels more *flimsier* than the 300D.

- Siddhartha

 

First: Thanks for your input!

Im not too concerned about "instant on" as I usually just keep the camera on
for the duration of shooting (I hit whatever button is needed to keep it
awake and carry extra batteries). A given "class" at a horse show is usually
about 10 to 20 minutes, with a short time between classes (long enough to
change batteries, but just barely).

The focus problem concerns me though.. What part doesn't work.

The only function I can concieve of needing (in the ring) is FAST center area
focus.. I dont want the camera to focus on anything outside the center of the
frame. (I usually focus/reframe/shoot when using an SLR in the ring) If I can
accomplish that I'll be a happy camper..

Then again, I always used Manual Focus on my film SLRs.. Having experimented
with the DRebel for a bit, I was satisfied that I could go to Manual if
needed, Im used to it after more than 40 years of manual film cameras, but a
good, functioning center weighted Auto-Focus would be GREAT.

Metering isn't too important to me, as I usually shoot in full manual mode
with a flash (currently using a SunPak 383) and a shutter speed of 1/160th or
faster and arpeture set per the lighting/distance situation. (I can be as
close as 20' or as far as 75' from the subject.

 

I'm a little "put off" by the smaller size myself.. I LIKE a good, big, heavy
(withing reason) box, it aids in stability.

 

Well keep in mind that I'm not Pro but where I want to use selectable AF is
for shooting action shots. For example, I was out taking pics of the kids
sleigh riding and the Rebel was slow to automatically switch AF modes. I
would have rather had the ability to set the AF mode to Predictive and leave
it there. The current hack allows you to select modes but to get
predictive mode to actually let the shutter release you have to flick it
into manual mode when you ready to take the shot. Not all that practical.

 

What do you expect out of the camera?

If you make prints at 30x20 cm, then the 300D will do fine.

 

As I understand it the current rebel automatically switches from One Shot
mode to Predictive depending on the subjects movement in the lens. Well
I've found that this happens slowly. Could be because I'm doing something
wrong but I haven't look into it.

The firmware hack provides for selectable focusing modes but when set to
predictive the shutter doesn't work because the electronics won't signal the
camera that its actual focused. The work around is to set the camera into
Predictive, let it focus as the subject and then just as your ready to take
the shot flick the lens into MF mode. Maybe you can get good at this with a
bit of practice but its not all that practical.

Since you're shooting show horses predictive AF may not be that important or
the time it takes the Rebel to switch may not cause a problem. However, I
had problems trying to take pics of the kids sleigh riding. The camera
wouldn't switch fast enough as the kids were whizzing by. Again, there
maybe some trick to getting the Rebel to switch modes faster but I haven't
found it.

As to manual focusing, I too come from the full manual type of camera (al be
it very casual use) and I can tell you that being accustom to a split focus
system on my manual camera, its not all that easy to focus the EOS lenses.
Now I'm sure lots of people will say "sure it is, I do it all the time" but
it sure isn't as easy as focusing my old manuals.

The Canon AF system does allow for user selectable focus points. I tend to
set my Rebel to the center point but if I understand the metering correctly
the active AF points is heavily weighted when determining correct exposure
setting. Again (assuming I'm correct) if you're going to use manual mode
this really doesn't matter much.

Flash compensation does work with the Hack, and I tend to use it a lot,
along with setting the flash sync rate to 1/200.

All in all I've been very happy with my 300D, but IMO the hack is a
necessity. In a few months I'll be in the marked for a second body and
unless there is a 20D replacement due I think I just may go with the 350D.
If the 350D wasn't released I'd be going with the 20D.

 

I use it but will probably get a 350 because of the shorter start up time,
better continuous shooting, and choice of focusing modes (the hack locks up
when trying to choose focusing modes). Also, I have a feeling that the 350
is going to have better noise reduction.

GT

 

I think that 20x30 will be very rare format of pictures.
Mostly I will print it on normal 10x15.
I was also consider other cameras, not DSLR, but I want to keep zoom lens
what I bought last year.

 

Please don't top post.

10x15 cm can be handilly done by the 300D. Or a 10D. or a D60. or a D30 for
that matter. You might find high value in a used unit.

Cheers,
Alan

 

The focus problem concerns me though.. What part doesn't work.

With the Digital Rebel I used, I simply set the AF zone to the center
zone, and it worked just fine. I don't recall if automatic mode would
override it, but I do remember that it remembered that I wanted the center
AF zone.

steve

 

In retrospect, maybe we should have written that into the charters. ;-)

(not that it would have made much of a difference)

 

While not a fan of size and weight for their own sake, cameras are
approaching the size that makes it hard for me to hold them. I had to get a
grip for my 20D, or actually my wife got it for me for Christmas, so I could
hold it comfortably. The Oly E-1 is too small for me to hold, for instance.

 

While not a fan of size and weight for their own sake, cameras are

instance.

I think that design has more to do with it than just size - one of my
cousins brought over a P&S the other day (I want to say that it was a Fuji,
but I don't recall with certainty) that was *very* small, yet very easy to
get a good grasp on it. I was impressed.

steve

 

It is. Or are you just poking a stick?

If people would read the charters (link in the link below), and emulate the most
common practise of others...

Cheers,
Alan