eos 5 eos 1 or whole new nikon system?

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by Deathwalker, Oct 8, 2003.

  1. Deathwalker

    Deathwalker Guest

    been offered an eos 5 for £225 with battery grip in a private sale is this
    good? i'm alos considering an eos 1. There seem to be several variants.
    Not worried about picture taking modes but would merely like a camera with
    high flash sync speed, deadly accurate focus which doesn't require an af
    illuminator and as easy to use in manual overide as possible. Used to own
    an A1 with genuine FD lenses. Disappointed with my 300 exposure and 50E
    focusing. Some afficionadoes say the only way to get best optical quality
    and accurate metering is to go nikon route. Currently have sigma 80-200,
    canon 75-300 and 28-80 usm. AFter the A1 simplicity and build quality seem
    better than all the other tricks they stuff in these days. Only thing is
    fully manual with 50E only leaves me with centreweighted metering.

    your thoughts and advice please.
    Deathwalker, Oct 8, 2003
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  2. Canon, Nikon, Minolta etc all make good cameras; you really should think
    very carefully before incurring the cost of changing to a different
    system. However, your Canon-fit lenses are from the bottom end of the
    range, and you may feel it would not be too much of a sacrifice.

    I have used an EOS 1n as my main 35mm camera for several years. Its AF
    is unerringly accurate, its exposure metering is about as good as it
    gets, and all in all it is an excellent, robust pro-level camera. It
    lacks a few of the bells and whistles of the 1v but I certainly never
    thought they were important enough to spend £1000 to upgrade! You may
    find it a little heavy compared with your previous EOS bodies. Near-mint
    second hand bodies are now quite reasonable in price.

    I have never used an EOS 5 but I have handled one. I didn't really care
    for it, as it seemed a bit plasticky (but bear in mind that I am a 1n
    user!). There have been many reports of the thumb wheel breaking. It
    does however have the advantage of built-in flash, eye-control AF, and
    of course is now even cheaper on the second hand market.

    I think your best bet is to find a dealer who has good second hand
    examples of both, and give them a good try out in your hand.

    BTW, I also used to use an A1 as my main camera before moving to EOS,
    and thought it was excellent (in fact I still have it for repro and
    macro work).
    David Littlewood, Oct 8, 2003
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  3. Deathwalker

    Deathwalker Guest

    Deathwalker, Oct 8, 2003
  4. Deathwalker

    Deathwalker Guest

    Deathwalker, Oct 8, 2003
  5. Penultimate question first, the 1n has an incrementally faster frame rate,
    5 focus points vs 1, better AF and that's pretty much it. Like David, I am
    quite satisfied with my 1n, with an A2 (EOS5) as backup, I never felt the
    need to upgrade to a 1v or EOS3 (the 5's successor.) You have the model
    line up down pretty well, the A2/EOS5 is the EF mount equivalent of the old
    FD mount A-1, the EOS1 series, the equivalent of the F-1 series.
    Better glass is probably your best investment. Sigma is probably not the
    best way to go about it, although I've been pretty happy with the two Sigmas
    I have, the 15mm fisheye and 17-35 f2.8-4. Sigmas have a documented history
    of compatibility problems with successive Canon introductions, you may find
    yourself with a Sigma lens that won't work on some future Canon you may buy.
    Tamron and Tokina are alternatives to look into, Tokina has a 28-80 f2.8
    that is supposed to be a stellar performer. I checked one out, and was duly
    impressed. The Canon 28-135 f3.5-5.6 IS USM is an impressive lens, coming
    in at under $400US new at B&H these days. I have one, and swear by it. It
    is light years better than the 28-90 you are using now.
    Try better glass, and if that doesn't do it, then go to another body, but
    there's no reason the glass shouldn't improve your images satisfactorily.

    Skip Middleton
    Skip Middleton, Oct 8, 2003
  6. Deathwalker

    Deathwalker Guest

    Ok. I have a 80-200 sigma that doesn't reliably work with the 50E. Had
    the camera and lense checked they concluded same as yourself. I thought
    they would say that canon only was best for their own reasons you seem to be
    justifying that suspicion. They didn't mention tokina and tamron which they
    obviously should have.

    Rang sigma and they reckoned the diaphragm contact was breaking down hence
    the intermediate fault. They said if it was incompatibility it would work
    or it wouldn't. Anyway after coming back from local camera shop the thing
    is working. Sigma want £60 to just look at lense and attempt fix. probably
    not worth that. Probably work on eos 5 or eos 1000.

    Local shop gave me my repair deposit back as yes there was a fault and no
    they couldn't fix it. So they ain't all bad.

    They also blamed the poor focusing performance on my cheap replacement film
    instead of konica fuji or kodak.

    Given the choice i prefer fuji. Their frontier machines are brilliant
    too. I use fuji own process paid slide film too.

    1.so on balance you would recommend tokina and tamron over sigma?
    2.Is the extra to buy genuine canon glass worth it?
    3.Do tokina and tamron do this apo glass? I believe there is some kind of
    crystal that qualifies the APO (Apochromatic) it having a better refraction
    index than normal. Seen adverts for canon and sigma but not the
    other two.

    4.USM may be better than canon standard but its about speed and quiet not

    5. If i bought an eos 1 would i be better spending the extra to get the 1n?

    To be honest after seeing the results with the 50E and the failure of the
    sigma lense i gave up photography for years. Just regretted selling my A1
    with FD 70-210 (with f4 through all the focal lengths) lens too much. That
    had a trombone arrangement so focus and focal length was the one grip.
    Great for doing night zoom effects. Massive enlargements possible pin

    Anyway picked up the camera again and joined southgate photographic society.
    Vast majority of members retired. Most are lrps or some such. There are
    five of us in the beginners group the rest are advanced. I ended up buying
    a minolta dimage scan elite II and a canon i850 printer. Still not winning
    any comps. Not even getting placed. One of the guys is a carpenter so i
    have a device for making framed mounts out of dala. Now they're judging me
    on the edges of my frames and choice of colour sheesh!
    Deathwalker, Oct 8, 2003
  7. 1) Yes, within limits, oranges to oranges, as it were. Best glass to best
    glass, the Sigmas hold their own optically, but are not as well built as
    some, and there's that compatibility problem.
    2) Yes, again within the same limits. The best Canon glass is as good as it
    gets, the bottom of the stack is, while not stellar, better than the bottom
    of the stack from aftermarket mfrs.
    Your 28-90 is better, for instance than the Sigma 28-105 f2..8-4, which is
    truly dire.
    3) Everybody has apochromatic glass, and all have some form of low
    dispersion elements, too, generally farther up the product line. Tokina ATX
    Pro, (the 28-80 f2.8 I mentioned earlier is an example) Sigma EX and Canon L
    fit that description, having both types of glass. Some of Canon's consumer
    line has apochromatic glass, too, as do some of the other mfrs'.
    4) Yes USM is about speed and silence, but they are usually better optically
    than non USM lenses. Not always, but usually. There are exceptions, the
    old 100-300 f5.6 L was not a USM lens, but was superior optically to the non
    "L" lens. Be advised, there are two types of USM, "micromotor" USM, which
    uses an improved version of the standard lens' motor, and "ring" USM, often
    referred to as "true" USM, which has a true ultrasonic ring motor in it.
    There is no way to infer which is which in the product description, but
    "ring" USM has a non rotating front element, critical if you are using a
    filter which has an orientation, like a polarizing filter. "Ring" USM
    lenses are also a little quieter and faster focusing than their micromotor
    USM brethren.
    5) I'd say the extra money is worth it, I feel limited by the one focus
    point. With 5 focus points, you can change to the one closest to the
    subject or the part of the image you want to focus on, and you can connect
    the spot meter to that focus point, so you can meter from the same area.
    An argument can be made for the EOS5, it has the same 5 focus points and
    spot meter, though coverage is slightly larger (something critically missing
    from the 50, IMHO), faster frame rate, a built in flash with a zoom feature.
    It is the command dial that has a habit of breaking, but if this has been
    repaired, the repair is permanent. I've had my A2 for nearly 5 years, and
    it hasn't broken...yet.
    As an aside, my wife has an Elan II, the same as your 50E, but without eye
    control. She loves it, and has gotten excellent results. She has been
    jurored into countless shows and taken many awards, both locally and
    nationally. It's a good little camera!
    Skip Middleton, Oct 9, 2003
  8. Be careful with the 'battery grip', as far as I know Canon didn't make a
    battery grip for the EOS 5. They did produce a 'vertical grip' the
    'VG10' but it does not do anything with batteries, it merely provides a
    vertical grip (still useful though). They did make a remote battery pack
    (BP-5 or BP50?) which took several 'C' or 'D' sized cells on some kind
    of belt pack, but this did not come with a grip.

    The dial that usually breaks on the 5 is the mode dial (left of the
    pentaprism) and not the thumbwheel. Basically it will break and Canon's
    repair does not seem to prevent it happening again. Mine lasted about 6
    rolls of film (from new) with kid-gloves treatment.

    The good thing about the 5 is the 5fps straight out of the box,
    something the 1 & 1n need a booster pack for. Watch battery consumption,
    mine zapped a 2CR5 in 4 rolls and the second battery lasted only two
    more. When not shooting you might be better removing the battery all
    John Halliwell, Oct 11, 2003
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