Equipment for skiing photography.

Discussion in '35mm Cameras' started by Ollie Clark, Mar 3, 2005.

  1. Ollie Clark

    Ollie Clark Guest

    I'm not a great photographer but I know vaguely what I'm doing. I'm off
    skiing in a week and intend to do a bit of photography. I've got a 70-210
    zoom lens and polarising and UV filters. Just wondering if anything else
    would be recomended?

    Any other hints and tips?
    Ollie Clark, Mar 3, 2005
    1. Advertisements

  2. Ollie Clark

    Alan Browne Guest

    Which camera/lens?

    ...bring a plastic bag to put your gear in before you re-enter a warm
    building or vehicle. Let it warm up in the bag before removing.
    Prevents consensation on lens, body, etc.

    ...slower film (ISO 100). As a compromise for evening/night pics without
    the chance to change rolls, a 400 is fine.

    ...spare batteries in inside pocket. Cold batteries live short lives.

    ...small bag that you can ski with. I've (in the past) ski'd with my
    maxxum 9 and 20mm on a neckstrap inside my coat. That's a big camera so
    very uncomfortable and of course lots of condensation (it's a metal
    body; gets cold then you put inside a steamy coat...).

    ...I suggest a wider angle lens. I like a 20mm or 28-70 for ski trips.

    ...if you intend to shoot people outside in the sun, bring a small flash
    unit and put some fill in at about -1.5. (If its an autoflash, set the
    flash to 1.5 to 2 stops larger aperture than the lens setting. Or if
    flash dictated, set the aperture 1.5-2 stops closed from the flash
    rating and increas exp. time accordingly).

    ...when the scene is filled with a lot of snow, regardless of the amount
    of sunlight or overcast, the meter will over read and the film will
    underexpose. So, either set your exposure compensation to +1.5 to +2
    (slide) or +2 to +3 (negative), or meter for "over", or set your ISO to
    1/4 its rating. (for 100 film, set ISO to 25). (OTOH: if a spot meter,
    and the subject (a person) is wearing dark clothes, then go the opposite

    [note: if you're able to dial in flash comp on your camera, then you're
    likely able to dial in exp comp too. They are usually seperate systems
    in the camera, that is to say, the exp comp goes to ambient light, the
    flash comp goes to flash light only. Rate ISO normally of course when
    you have these comp. features].

    Break a leg.

    Alan Browne, Mar 3, 2005
    1. Advertisements

  3. Ollie Clark

    TAFKAB Guest

    I was up at Attitash (NH, USA) last week, and the mountain was littered with
    photographers who were shooting the absolutely perfect conditions. I noticed
    two classes of lenses: a wide angle zoom (28-80 or around there) and a
    70-200 (or around there, as well). Many were shooting staged shots of skiers
    and boarders coming toward them at a predetermined spot, and wanted to get a
    close-up of a turn, with a suitable background and lighting. The longer zoom
    was, of course, used for distance shots.

    Be careful with the polarizer, and don't overdo it. Black skies aren't great
    TAFKAB, Mar 3, 2005
  4. Ollie Clark

    Skip M Guest

    Skip M, Mar 4, 2005
  5. Ollie Clark

    Roxy d'Urban Guest

    Waterskiing or snow skiing?
    Roxy d'Urban, Mar 4, 2005
  6. Ollie Clark

    Ollie Clark Guest

    Centon DF300 body and the older versions of the Centon 28-70mm F3.4/4.8
    and Centon 70-210mm F4/5.6 lenses. I know, not great equipment but it was

    I guess the first of my lenses would be OK for that then.
    I haven't got a flash (yet). Is it pointless trying to take pictures of
    people on snow without one?
    Gonna have to be the ISO on my camera.
    Thanks. :) Cheers for all the advice.
    Ollie Clark, Mar 4, 2005
  7. Ollie Clark

    Ollie Clark Guest

    Got both of those(ish) so I should be alright. I've never been able to get
    decent staged shots of people skiing and so I was thinking of using the
    longer lens which I've just got to try and get more natural shots of
    people skiing from a distance. Don't know how easy it's going to be
    without auto-focus though.
    No, I guess not! Thanks for the tip.
    Ollie Clark, Mar 4, 2005
  8. Ollie Clark

    Ollie Clark Guest

    Ollie Clark, Mar 4, 2005
  9. Ollie Clark

    Alan Browne Guest

    If it works, that's all that counts.
    The flash is for the on slope portrait in the midday sun. People are
    squinting (regardless of the direction as it is bright) and the sun is
    casting strong shaddows on the face. You can get people to relax the
    squint for a moment, then the flash fills out the shaddows without
    adding much to the exposure (if you do it right...).

    So, no, it's not pointless, but if you can, it improves the looks of
    your subjects.

    Then be careful and remember to reset it to rating after each set of shots.

    k a leg.
    Quite welcome.
    Alan Browne, Mar 4, 2005
    1. Advertisements

Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.