Fash sync. with Nikon F100

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by wjjk, Nov 16, 2003.

  1. wjjk

    wjjk Guest

    I have a question about the fash sync. of the Nikon F100. I am using
    this camera together with a Metz 40MZ-3i flash. When I am using it in
    TTL mode (but not in the fill-in mode), I would expect that the camera
    will function as its shortest sync speed of 1/250 s. However, the camera
    always tells me that it using 1/60 s. Does anyone knows why?

    Thanks, Walter
    wjjk, Nov 16, 2003
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  2. wjjk

    Matt Clara Guest

    While I don't know why, except perhaps it allows for more forgiving depth of
    field, I can assure you that in bright lighting conditions it will go to
    1/250th of a second. At least mine does with the SB-28 and SB-80.
    Matt Clara, Nov 16, 2003
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  3. This camera is much more than a "snap-shooter" - take it out
    of program mode, which limits its flash synch speed to 60-250th
    second speed, depending on light level...
    David Ruether, Nov 16, 2003
  4. wjjk

    T P Guest

    What is "fash"?
    T P, Nov 16, 2003
  5. wjjk

    Alan Browne Guest

    T P wrote:

    In the context of the question, even you should be able to figure that
    one out.
    Alan Browne, Nov 16, 2003
  6. wjjk

    wjjk Guest

    Sorry, flash

    wjjk, Nov 16, 2003
  7. wjjk

    Adam F Guest

    fashion sync stupid
    get with the lingo

    adam f

    Adam F, Nov 16, 2003
  8. wjjk

    Mike Guest

    OH you mean a Designer sync?
    Mike, Nov 16, 2003
  9. wjjk

    Alan Browne Guest

    Don't apologize, you were being TPd (er, jerked) around.
    Alan Browne, Nov 17, 2003
  10. My F5 does the same thing in P mode, or A mode.....If I want 1/250th I have
    to put it in S or M Mode. - I think this is normal.......
    William Graham, Nov 17, 2003
  11. wjjk

    T P Guest

    Sorry, I must be a 'flashion victim'.

    T P, Nov 17, 2003
  12. wjjk

    Deathwalker Guest

    Is that a fashion statement?
    Deathwalker, Nov 17, 2003
  13. In "A", it should also allow the shutter speed to "float" to
    any appropriate value for the ambient light (1/250th and lower);
    the "P" mode limits the range to 1/60th-1/250th; the "S" mode
    permits selection of specific shutter speeds for flash synch up to
    1/250th. In "P" mode, if the correct ambient-light exposure can
    be had using 1/60th, 1/125th, and 1/250th, the program can be
    shifted to use one of these specific shutter speeds, as I recall.
    As I pointed out earlier, though, just getting the F100 (or F5)
    out of program mode so you can better control the camera
    can improve things with these fine tools (which should not be
    used as "snapshooters", stuck in program mode...;-).
    David Ruether, Nov 17, 2003
  14. wjjk

    Matt Clara Guest

    As I pointed out earlier, though, just getting the F100 (or F5)
    I must take exception with this last statement, as some serious photography
    can yet be accomplished in P mode. I shoot several weddings every summer
    using Nikon equipment, and the flash and camera are on P mode 90% of the
    time with an occasional dial in exposure adjustment. The results are
    superbly exposed images. The remaining 10% is for the formals in which case
    I use Alien Bees for lighting and the camera is in M mode. Generally once
    you've got those settings down they don't vary much unless the crowd gets
    big for one of the formals and I need greater depth of field.
    Moreover, in bright light the camera will go for 1/250th.
    Sometimes P is the best tool for the job, in which case these fine tools
    _should_ be used in P mode, at least when the situation warrants it.
    Matt Clara, Nov 17, 2003
  15. wjjk

    T P Guest

    No, it's a "flashion" statement. You really should pay more
    attention; I will be asking questions on this topic later this week,
    and woe betide anyone who gets less than 9 out of 10.

    T P, Nov 17, 2003
  16. message
    This is true - but a rare condition, IMHO. As with wedding photography,
    where using P mode most of the time will cause severe underexposure
    of the low ambient-light levels found at weddings much of the time - and
    it may also force the lens wide open, which is often not always ideal for
    best image quality. 1/30th and even 1/15th or slower shutter speeds are
    often useful, especially when using wide-angle lenses which can be hand-held
    at slow speeds and which often need to be at f5.6 for good performance.
    For the original poster, use of P in a studio situation doesn't work if there
    are reasons why 1/250th shutter speed is desireable (noticeable light sources
    or reflections from these that should not predominate in the exposure is
    one reason) and since program mode may force the aperture too wide
    for the set-up. Knowing photographic techniques and having good tools
    often help in producing better/more-varied images than mere snapshooting
    with fully automatic controls engaged will - which the newer cameras
    (even the good ones) now permit...;-)
    David Ruether, Nov 17, 2003
    William Graham, Nov 18, 2003
  18. As long as you can achieve full control, I don't think it really matters
    which mode you are using....I can fudge the program in P mode with the
    control wheels, and that seems to work OK. Where I seem to have difficulty
    is figuring out how to use fill flash.....I can use the flash in P mode, and
    the pictures seem to come out OK, but it bothers me that I don't really know
    what the camera is doing......Exactly what percentage of the light does it
    get from the flash? How can I force the camera to use (for example) 66%
    ambient light, and 33% light from the flash? Should I go to manual mode and
    intentionally underexpose by 33%? - Will it then make up that 1/3 stop with
    the flash?
    William Graham, Nov 18, 2003
  19. wjjk

    Alan Browne Guest

    Horsefeathers Bill. It doesn't matter where the meter is. What matters
    is understanding the weighting of that TTL meter.

    Alan Browne, Nov 18, 2003
  20. wjjk

    Matt Clara Guest

    No, Bill's right. In fact, to me a _real_ manual camera would occasionally
    poke you in the eye, just to make things even more difficult!
    (just kidding, Bill!)
    Matt Clara, Nov 18, 2003
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