Fine art and D70s

Discussion in 'Digital SLR' started by Vladislav, May 30, 2006.

  1. Vladislav

    Vladislav Guest

    What should be considered as a main issue for fine art shooting?
    with my best reagrds, Vladislav
    Vladislav, May 30, 2006
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  2. Vladislav

    RichA Guest

    RichA, May 30, 2006
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  3. Vladislav

    Ken Davey Guest

    AND technical excellence!

    Ken Davey, May 30, 2006
  4. Vladislav

    J. Clarke Guest

    Same way you get to Carnegie Hall. Practice.
    J. Clarke, May 30, 2006
  5. Vladislav

    Bigguy Guest

    Do you mean create 'fine art' with camera OR...
    take pictures of 'fine art' with camera.

    If the second one then:
    Use a mid length telephoto (or zoom) - approx 100 - 150mm - this will
    minmise lens distortions.
    Use a very solid tripod.
    Align lens to point at cetre of 'art' and at 90deg to 'art' - this will
    minimise perspective distortions.
    Use a small aperture - f8,f11 ish
    Use a cable release -mirror lockup if you have it

    Lighting - God's own daylight is best - indirect diffuse 'North' light.
    Avoid glass over pictures if possible - if not possible then clean glass
    well and try a polarising filter.

    If artificial light must be used then light from both sides at 45 degrees
    with a soft, diffuse source.
    Check colour temperature / white balance.

    Take an incident light reading, use grey card or adjust using camera
    histogram (this does not always show all three colours).
    Maybe bracket +-1/2 and +-1 stops - depends on how much 'art' you have to

    Take a few shots of a Gretag Macbeth or other colour reference chart..

    If you have lots to photograph setup something to hold the pictures and
    bring them to the setup camera + lights.

    Bigguy, May 30, 2006
  6. Vladislav

    Vladislav Guest

    Thank you !!! Exactly what i need , and please give more detail about
    shot mode - are you using an Aperture priority ? and what about
    sharpness mode?
    Vladislav, May 30, 2006
  7. Vladislav

    Bigguy Guest

    Use Manual mode - aperature f8 - f16, shutter speed from incident light or
    grey card reading.
    This will allow correct exposure to be made from dark or light artwork... a
    pencil drawing on white paper will under expose using the camera's meter and
    a very dark painting will overexpose... reading from a grey card or
    measuring incident light with a handheld meter gives an accurate reading
    whatever the subjects tonality.
    Aperture Priority will allow the camera to shoose the exposure and thus be
    wrong! Stick to Manual mode.

    If using daylight take regular readings as lighting can change with time...

    I would shoot RAW mode and do any sharpening later in Photoshop... amount
    depends on the camera - some do more in-camera sharpening than others...
    shooting RAW can eliminate any need to bracket exposures too...

    Bigguy, May 30, 2006
  8. Vladislav

    tomm42 Guest

    50 or 60mm macro is the best lens, if using zooms (not recommended)
    then use mid telphoto range 100-150mm, and have it in the midrange of
    the zoom, or a 90-105 macro. The 50 or 60 macros give flat field and a
    decent working distance (still a little long really with film they were
    perfect). Shooting a 4'x6' painting, with a midranged tele you'd need a
    large studio. I also prefer tungsten lights or strobes. North light is
    too high a color temperature, too blue. Polarizing filters on lights
    and the camera also help, oils especially can be very reflective. My
    set up was generally 4 Lowel Totalights on 2 stands, polarizing filters
    aligned on each light. Polarizer on the camera and the camera aligned
    with the painting XYandZ axis. This is sometimes tough.
    This can get hot and sweaty, strobes are nice but their color temps
    vary too.

    tomm42, May 30, 2006
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