First RAW conversion - Be kind!

Discussion in 'Photography' started by kombi45, Jun 15, 2005.

  1. kombi45

    kombi45 Guest

    Looking for constructive criticism - I just did my first RAW
    conversion, and would love some tips, helpful hints, positive
    criticism. I used RawShooter Essentials and Photoshop 7.0.

    The lens is a 55MM Nikon MF up close at 2.8. I couldn't get the
    built-in flash to work with this MF('n) lens for some reason...any


    kombi45, Jun 15, 2005
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  2. kombi45

    eawckyegcy Guest

    Poorly chosen plane of focus. Poorly selected f/ratio. Basically, the
    entire image (or at least the parts that might be interesting) are
    completely out of focus. Use of RAW conversion can not work around
    basic technical errors like this.


    1) for macro work you must position the camera so it's focal plane is
    parallel to the subject plane of interest.

    2) after (1) is obtained, use a smaller aperture for more depth of

    3) get a book on basic macro technique. John Shaw's 'Closeup's in
    Nature' is worth a read (see
    eawckyegcy, Jun 15, 2005
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  3. kombi45

    kombi45 Guest

    Gotcha. I'll give it a go tomorrow.
    Ya' know, even at 2.8 the RAW file seemed a little murky. I did shoot
    several at lower f stops at ISO 200, 1/60 or so, and they were all but
    completely dark. And as I stated in my OP, the flash wouldn't fire in
    the D70S w/ this lens. It works fine, as I shot some with the lens I
    bought - the 24-120 VR Nikon.
    Thanks - I appreciate the feedback and the suggested book.

    kombi45, Jun 15, 2005
  4. kombi45

    Sheldon Guest

    You had the same problems I did when I started. Not enough depth of field.
    The closer you get the more you have to stop the lens down. And, I'm pretty
    sure the flash that comes on the camera is made to work with the digital
    automatic lenses so it can read the exposure and distance. I'm also working
    on close-up shots with an older macro lens and a D70. You can get some
    great results, but it takes a bit of planning and small apertures.
    Sheldon, Jun 16, 2005
  5. kombi45

    Dirty Harry Guest

    How about the actual raw conversion? When I saw all the noise I thought it
    must be at iso 1600 or something...I think a lot of it could be jpeg
    Dirty Harry, Jun 16, 2005
  6. kombi45

    Stacey Guest

    You mean you shot this at f2.8? You should never attempt to shoot anything
    this close wider than f11 if you expect any DOF. But the RAW conversion
    look fine! :)
    Stacey, Jun 16, 2005
  7. kombi45

    kombi45 Guest

    I took some unadvised liberties in the workflow - it was literally my
    first one, and I thought I was above reading the 72 page tutorial! I
    followed along last night and had some luck with a different photo.

    kombi45, Jun 16, 2005
  8. kombi45

    dadiOH Guest

    As far as DOF goes (never very far in macro:) the best thing you can do
    is use a small flash so you can stop all the way down.

    Because of the proximity of the light source (flash) to the subject and
    it's large size relative to same, the flash won't look like
    will look like a large, soft source. Which it is in this case. It is
    common in macro to use 2-3 flashes or as a top light, another
    as a "fill", another for the background.


    dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
    ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
    LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
    Get it at
    dadiOH, Jun 16, 2005
  9. kombi45

    dadiOH Guest

    dadiOH, Jun 16, 2005
  10. kombi45

    kombi45 Guest

    I would LOVE to use a flash, or two or three. However, with the D70S
    and the 55MM Nikon MF lens I am using, the flash will not fire. Any
    suggestions? Settings I am missing?
    kombi45, Jun 16, 2005
  11. kombi45

    UC Guest

    Why aren't you using film?
    UC, Jun 16, 2005
  12. kombi45

    Mr. Mark Guest

    1) for macro work you must position the camera so it's focal plane is
    Take the focus advice with a grain of salt - things don't have to be focused
    to be interesting. From where I sit what makes this shot interesting is the
    plain of focus fading fast from the top right to the bottom left of the
    image. That coupled with the motion blur of the web strand on the bottom
    right makes this an unusual shot.

    I think you /should/ learn to get focus through out the photo but mostly so
    that you can break the rules /on purpose/ next time. ;)

    Can't comment on the raw conversion as I've never done one.

    Mr. Mark, Jun 16, 2005
  13. kombi45

    kombi45 Guest

    Thanks, Mark - I really liked the shot as well, but I completely
    understood his advice. I like the legs, in particular - they almost
    look like chlorphyl reflecting off of translucent blades of grass.

    kombi45, Jun 16, 2005
  14. kombi45

    dadiOH Guest

    Not really, don't know the camera. Does it have a sync cord jack
    (usually compur type) on the camera body? The norm is to plug cord from
    flash into jack, select an appropriate shutter speed and push the
    button. Lens used shouldn't matter (unless it were to have an internal
    leaf shutter) as the lenses are independant of the shutter (and sync) on
    35mm type cameras.


    dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
    ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
    LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
    Get it at
    dadiOH, Jun 16, 2005
  15. kombi45

    dadiOH Guest

    Apparently not. How wierd and, umm, inconvenient...

    "Using a cord in the studio is always a pain and I know someone is going
    to trip on it and smash the camera to the ground. Thus I don't care that
    there's no PC terminal on the camera. If you do care, no big deal: the
    Nikon AS-15 coupler costs $19 and slips in the hot shoe to give you a PC

    dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
    ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
    LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
    Get it at
    dadiOH, Jun 16, 2005
  16. kombi45

    kombi45 Guest

    I'm just an ant marching in the technological procession.
    kombi45, Jun 17, 2005
  17. kombi45

    Ken Tough Guest

    Check the manual for custom setting 19. You must change this from
    TTL to Manual for the camera to fire in M with a non-CPU lens.

    You can get slave flashes that will fire off the main one on
    the camera too, for easier setup. Also try using some mirrors
    to increase the lighting in sunlight.
    Ken Tough, Jun 17, 2005
  18. kombi45

    Mr. Mark Guest

    Yeah, the advice was good and I didn't intend to diminish it's value. What
    happened to me this year was that my girlfriend and I started shooting
    together. I'm the consummate technologist (software engineer type) and this
    translates to my photography. She's the exact opposite. Seeing the photos
    she ends up with is teaching me to let loose a bit. Blurry, improperly
    exposed, amazing composition, and almost always more interesting to me than
    the way I saw the same subject. :)
    Mr. Mark, Jun 17, 2005
  19. kombi45

    JPS Guest

    In message <[email protected]>,
    Noise comes mainly from exposure level; not ISO per se. In fact, at the
    same absolute exposure level, lower ISOs tend to be noisier, as the
    noise is more posterized and therefore, more contrasty.
    JPS, Jun 23, 2005
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