Fm-2n depth of Field lever problem..

Discussion in '35mm Cameras' started by BeAdesigner1, Aug 19, 2003.

  1. BeAdesigner1

    BeAdesigner1 Guest

    Just got a used Fm-2n, but it seems my depth of field lever is having
    some issues.

    I've pressed it toward the body and it seems jammed. I got it down a
    bit (then it stayed there), and I noticed that suddenly changing
    apperature setting would darken the viewfinder, but I had to "gently
    pry" the lever back foward. Now I dont want to touch it until I get
    some advice. The pinholes in the lever itself look rusted, im
    thinking thats the problem.

    What can I do to get the level functioning smoothly? I know I can live
    without it - but its nice to have it as an option.

    A whole separate question - I previosly expected to use mostly 400
    film for this trip. Now it seems like for most conditions, setting
    the ISO to 800 instead of 400 is the only way to get the exposure I
    want (otherwise I have to set it too slow - I dont have a tripod).

    My question: What are the advantages/disadvantages to sticking with
    400 film and just setting the camera to 800, compared to just buying
    800 speed film?

    Also, How likely am I to have the 400 film developed incorrectly even
    if I inform them about it being shot as 800? Any other advice for a
    newbie? I apreciate the help. (=

    Matt
     
    BeAdesigner1, Aug 19, 2003
    #1
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  2. I'd say you have some problems. My lever meets some resistance as it moves
    toward the body, but its smooth and feels as if the resistance is the
    result of closing down the blades (which, in fact, is the case). Release
    the lever, and it moves smoothly back out.

    I'd suggest removing the lens and looking at the lever that is inside the
    body. Does the whole thing function smoothly without a lens? (Just maybe
    the lens is mounted just the tiniest bit crooked?)

    On the rust, I assume you're talking about the two small holes that you
    insert a device into to unscrew? If you have rust there, it's a problem.
    Take it to a professional to have it cleaned and restored to spec. Get an
    estimate. I have this done to my FM2n every year or so. If you're going on
    a trip, you should have this done before you leave. I can't remember what
    it costs -- a hundred dollars or so. Get an estimate. With a newly-
    purchased used camera, I urge you to have it done before the trip.
    Get a tripod. You should have one anyway. Get a good one. I've often pushed
    film one stop, and it makes little noticeable difference. If you've already
    bought 400 speed film, just stick with it and push it a stop. If you
    haven't, buy some of each. You can always push 400 film a stop if you need
    more speed. Keep track of which film is pushed.
    It depends on where you have it developed, so ask when you bring it in. (If
    you go to a place with a few hundred envelopes for you to fill in and leave
    on a big table, you're in the wrong place.) Tell the person taking your
    film that you want it pushed one stop. There's an extra charge for the
    special handling, and you won't get it back as soon. If they can't do push
    processing, you'll find out then and there.

    Get your camera cleaned and spec'd. Get a tripod. Have a great trip.
     
    Phil Stripling, Aug 20, 2003
    #2
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  3. I hate "me too" postings, but I don't think that this can be emphasized
    enough. If there is rust on the outside, what's on the inside?

    If you bought the camera with any kind of warranty, I would take it back.

    If you can't do that, I agree with Phil, and get it CLA'ed. BEFORE you use
    it. Make sure that the technician who looks at it knows that there was
    corosion damage on the outside when you ask for an estimate.

    Geoff.
     
    Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Aug 20, 2003
    #3
  4. BeAdesigner1

    BeAdesigner1 Guest

    Thanks to Philip, Geoff and Dan for the info...I don't think I was
    clear enough before. The physical mechanical level (for DOF) would
    take some force to move, probably from previous lack of use. What
    seemed like corrosion specifically "on" the lever - the small circular
    part that that attaches the whole lever to the body has two small
    'holes.' Theres no real rust inside or out...Adorama rated it E-, to
    it seems to be in quality condition for its age...but this is my first
    time dealing with these things. Not sure it's rust anymore...dont
    know how it should look, and its hard to get light in there...
    I decided to keep working the lever, and put a VERY little bit of
    lubricant where free motion was restricted. I was very careful, but
    after a few minutes it moved freely, so thats good news.
    I suppose Ill find out when I develop the film if the lever problem
    caused overexposure....
    I'm meeting up with my buddy whos an RIT photo grad, gonna have him
    look it over and let me know what he thinks, and clean what he can.
    I'll take your advice and see if he recommends bringing it to a shop.
    I naively figured this wouldnt be necessary buying it from Adorama in
    this quality. How extensively does Adorama look over things before
    they sell it?

    - Matt
     
    BeAdesigner1, Aug 20, 2003
    #4
  5. I haven't bought anything used by Adorama. E- is supposed to mean Shows
    normal wear, might have minor scratches, glass clean. One would expect such
    a camera to function correctly. But they describe only appearance, don't
    they? Curious.
     
    Phil Stripling, Aug 20, 2003
    #5
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