Fuji Hunt or Tetenal for E-6??

Discussion in 'Fuji' started by ¯urek, Sep 9, 2006.

  1. ¯urek

    ¯urek Guest


    I'd like to process E-6 in my home darkroom, but I'm not sure which
    chemcals to use. There are Fuji Hunt and Tetenal available on the market
    and it's prices are very close. I mostly shoot Fuji slides, so Fuji Hunt
    should be natural choice, but as we all know, it's not nescesary always
    true. So what is your experience?? And maybe there is no difference
    between them?? And if there is no difference maybe one of them have longer
    shelf life?? I shoot about 2 rolls per month so shelf life is is important
    ¯urek, Sep 9, 2006
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  2. ¯urek a écrit :
    I can't help you on the Fuji versus Tetenal debate as I use the Kodak
    5-liters 6-baths one-shot kit.

    For consistent results, I strongly suggest you use a one-shot kit.

    Regarding the shelf life, here is what I do:
    I don't dilute the whole kit but keep it in concentrate form.
    Once the kit open, I put the first developer (the most sensible to
    aging) into separate brown glass bottles (pharmacy type).
    As the Kodak kit used with 15xx Jobo drums let me develop 8 rolls in one
    liter of developer and I need 200ml of concentrate, I decided to use
    200ml bottles.
    I fill the bottles with exactly 200ml of concentrate and complete with
    distilled water up to the neck so there is no air in the bottle.
    When I need it, I just dilute it to obtain the final liter.
    Bottles are kept in the dark at my darkroom temp.

    So exposed rolls are kept in the fridge until I have 8 rolls to develop.

    I can't give you a definitive shelf life as I started to use this method
    with my E-6 kits only recently but I'm using it for years with Xtol
    developer and have reached the 4 years longevity which is far beyond the
    This test is still running as I've still a few bottles of this batch.

    With Kodak E-6 kits, in the past I used a protection gaz (Protectan or a
    mix of butane/propane) inside the original concentrate bottle but it
    gave me only a 10 months shelf-life. As Kodak's kit lets you develop 40
    135-36 rolls it may not be enough for low production.

    I'm not sure whether it is interesting to develop yourself your slides
    for only a couple of rolls per month.
    You may try to find a good lab instead.

    Claudio Bonavolta
    Claudio Bonavolta, Sep 9, 2006
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  3. ¯urek

    ¯urek Guest

    Po¶wiêcaj±c chwilkê wolnego czasu Claudio Bonavolta naskroba³(-a):
    6-bath Kodak kit is unavailable in my country (Poland) so I consider Fuji
    and Tetenal only.
    Yes I know. I'm planning to use it as one-shot kits - 0.4l of solution for
    2 rolls. Maybe it's a waste of chemistry as its possible to do 5 rolls in
    0.4l, but it's still cheaper and, I hope, better than in a pro lab.
    Great idea! Earlier I thought about filling bottles with propane-butane
    but your idea is perfect. I only need to buy, some pharmacy bottles. They
    shouldn't be expensive.
    I'm a hobbyist, so I'd like to do it for my pleasure. And if I will have
    better results than from a lab, it'll be great. :)
    ¯urek, Sep 9, 2006
  4. ¯urek

    darkroommike Guest

    You might also ask around and see if some other photographers in your
    area are shooting slide film, split the cost and the labor of processing
    your slides and getting your volume of production up to a more cost
    effective figure. Not only is do-it-yourself processing fun, it can be
    financially rewarding and the final product of higher quality than many
    labs are capable of producing. Case in point: my local E-6 lab uses a
    roller transport machine which deposits "gunk" (technical term) on my
    slides and his rollers. Dried gunk on his rollers can also scratch
    film. And since I shoot 120 more often than 35mm my wider film travels
    to parts of his machine that the narrower 35mm rolls do not and that
    yields even more gunk and scratches.
    darkroommike, Sep 9, 2006
  5. ¯urek

    Rod Smith Guest

    If I'm not mistaken, the Fuji-Hunt chemistry is a 6-bath process, whereas
    Tetenal makes both 3- and 6-bath kits. The 3-bath kits are simpler to use,
    but some people insist they can see a difference in quality between the
    two types. You should also check on the number of bottles in the package.
    Put simply, the more the better from a shelf life perspective; if the
    manufacturer splits components up into multiple bottles, it's likely done
    to keep it from going bad. If the same chemicals are put in the same
    bottles, they may react and the solution as a whole will go bad more
    quickly. I've had this happen with a Paterson 3-bath kit that came in
    (IIRC) 5 or 6 bottles; it went bad within about 3 months of my opening it.
    Kodak's 6-bath kit, which ships in something like a dozen bottles, lasts
    longer than this, but I don't know its real-world limits. OTOH, more
    bottles means more hassle when mixing your chemicals for use, along with a
    greater chance of error when measuring the chemicals.
    Rod Smith, Sep 12, 2006
  6. ¯urek

    darkroommike Guest

    Right and some kits facilitate dividing and others are a real pain to
    divide when mixing smaller quantities.
    darkroommike, Sep 14, 2006
  7. When I bought my 5L Colortec Tetenal 3-bath E6 I was advised to use a
    preservative spray into the colour dev bottle after extracting what I needed
    for use. (I queried why the advice didn't also apply to the 1st. dev. and
    was advised that the concentrate was stable.) Unfortunately, having gone
    digital since my E6 days, I can't advise whether the advice was sound in the
    longer term! Seem to remember having no problems upto a year after purchase
    and 1st. opening.
    Malcolm Stewart, Sep 14, 2006
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