Glass negatives - need friends!

Discussion in 'Photography' started by Alex Frank, Mar 6, 2005.

  1. Alex Frank

    Alex Frank Guest

    I have just startet working with my old glass-negatives from about 1910.

    I need help to find good web-resources where I can learn about how to make
    good prints. I use an Epson 4870 now - and I am a beginner.

    It would also be nice to get in touch with someone out there who have old
    negatives too, not only glass.

    Alex
     
    Alex Frank, Mar 6, 2005
    #1
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  2. Alex Frank

    McLeod Guest

    I set up my digital camera on a copystand and put the glass plates I
    had on a lightbox and copied them that way. In photoshop I just
    inverted them.
     
    McLeod, Mar 6, 2005
    #2
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  3. Alex Frank

    RSD99 Guest

    Scanning directly with an Epson 4870 will produce **much** better results,
    up to it's maximum size of (roughly) 5.7" x 8.5". If you have 8" x 10"
    glass negatives, you will need to get the newer Epson 4990 ... which
    (reportedly) will scan the full 8" x 10" negatives and transparencies.

    If the OP has any further questions, he should check the Google Groups
    Archives for

    alt.comp.periphs.scanner

    comp.periphs.scanners

    Scanning glass negatives has been well "treated" recently in several
    threads in those groups.
     
    RSD99, Mar 6, 2005
    #3
  4. Alex Frank

    bmoag Guest

    Are you a beginner to all of photography or just the digital end of it?

    There is more instruction available for color scanning /printing than for
    high quality b&w.

    For starters:

    Your Epson scanner is excellent for this use.

    Cleanliness is digital godliness. Start with clean plates. No amount of
    scanner "dust removal" can make up for a century of neglect. Cleaning these
    things is basic photography but can cause damage.

    Although it will generate large size files do not scan at less than 300dpi
    as this will yield a file that will print at 4x5 without interpolation.
    However most likely you will need to retouch the image and may want to crop
    some of it. Therefore you will likely want to scan at even higher dpi. It is
    actually easier to retouch (clean up scratches, dust) with larger file size
    images. This is a complex subject for which simply following tables of
    dpi/print size can cause you to make scans that are actually far larger, and
    sometimes smaller, than you really need. Once you gain experience you will
    understand what works for you.

    When you get to the larger file sizes you start needing lots of RAM and a
    fast processor. High quality scans of 4x5 originals can be huge and choke
    machines that have less than 512mbs of RAM (more is better) and processors
    less than 2ghz. This gets very expensive on a Mac and will never be as fast
    as a Wintel machine.

    Always save your basic, unretouched scan in a lossless format as this is now
    your digital negative. You can also save as many iterations of it as you
    like once you start working with the image.
     
    bmoag, Mar 7, 2005
    #4
  5. Alex Frank

    No One Guest

    Amen to all of the above. I scan my B/W negatives in color at 48 bit.
    I set the output size to the largest anticipated print size, usually
    8 by 10 and scan at 300 dpi. After all processing is done (except for
    sharpening) I save the image as a .stn file. This now is my
    "negative".

    Hank
     
    No One, Mar 8, 2005
    #5
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