Here's what I'd like from Olympus

Discussion in 'Olympus' started by RichA, Oct 11, 2006.

  1. RichA

    RichA Guest

    Since they are stuck with 4/3rds, I'd like this:
    A 6 meg camera (make it the E-3a) with as low a residual noise as
    possible but with in-camera NR being an option ONLY. A 20 meg camera
    (make it the E-3b) for high resolution requirements.

    Olympus stated that their lenses, even the kit lenses can support 22
    megapixels when it comes to resolution.

    If this is the case, make a camera that is MODULAR. With two sensor
    packs that can be exchanged. The new E-3 body is certainly (think
    Canon 1DsMkII) big enough to accommodate this. It is the only way I
    can think that the E-3 will be an all round performer. Making it a
    one only 12-14megapixel 4/3rds is IMO asking for disaster.
     
    RichA, Oct 11, 2006
    #1
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  2. RichA

    Jeff R. Guest

    If its going to be modular anyway, then how about a sensor cooler module,
    with its own dedicated battery pack?

    A little specialised perhaps, but _I'd_ look more than twice.
     
    Jeff R., Oct 11, 2006
    #2
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  3. RichA

    RichA Guest

    You could do a small peltier cooler, but they draw a lot of power and
    you'd need a belt battery pack of some kind. The only other
    alternative would be an integrated fan and that wouldn't work too well
    on its own.
     
    RichA, Oct 11, 2006
    #3
  4. RichA

    J. Clarke Guest

    How about a 20 meg that can bind the pixels in groups of 4 to yield a 5 meg
    low-noise mode?
     
    J. Clarke, Oct 11, 2006
    #4
  5. RichA

    Scott Speck Guest

    From my own experience with old-technology CCD's for use in faint galaxy
    observations with large telescopes, cooling your sensor does wonders in
    greatly reducing your dark current noise. I've thought for a couple years
    now that someone needs to market a thermoelectrically cooled digital sensor.
    I used to cool my old RCA CCD down to -80C, and the dark current was
    phenomenally reduced as a result. You're right, you need a lot of power to
    do it, but considering the amount of gear we dslr photographers are willing
    to cart around with us, why not have the option of cooling the CCD for long
    exposure/low light shots? In the studio, extra power is no problem. In the
    field, I'm sure we could lug around an extra 5 pounds, at least for short
    distances, especially when we saw the low noise results afterward. I've
    always found that a surprisingly spectacular result, in the aftermath of
    some new hardship-inducing technique, is MORE than enough motivation to
    endure that hardship. Face it, we carry around lots of heavy lenses to take
    better pictures, and that's a hardship. But who would give up all those
    lenses for only one lightweight lens, knowing how limited their capabilities
    would become? So tack on another battery source that weighs as much as a
    single decent telephoto lens... As for noise reduction, if the CCD is cooled
    and maintained at a relatively fixed temperature, one could take "dark
    frames" LATER, at that same temperature, and post-dark-subtract the images,
    right? Meaning you could also eliminate taking dark-frame "noise reduction"
    exposures during your shoot. Tell me THAT wouldn't save some time when
    you're taking multi-minute exposures! The other thing I used to cool CCD's
    with was liquid nitrogen, but that's pretty much out of the question for a
    dslr, even though it got those temperatures WAY down there... The only
    thing you have to do is thermally isolate the sensor -- whatever device is
    cooling the sensor must be attached via thermally conductive "struts" to the
    sensor holder itself. And the sensor and its holder must be thermally
    insulated from all OTHER parts of the camera, as well as possible.
    Scott
     
    Scott Speck, Oct 12, 2006
    #5
  6. Our microscope camera is cooled to -80C. Yes, it works well, but besides
    the big TEC and fan, isolating the chip in this camera involves putting
    it in a deep vacuum environment. Any parts exposed to air getting that
    cold result in lots of condensation/frost, undesirable near expensive
    electronics!
    I got the impression that building a well isolated sensor mount that is
    compatible with deep cooling is no small feat (hence $$).

    But also: cooling less may already make a big difference. I think the
    difference between ambient and -20 is a lot more than between -20 and -80.

    Martijn
     
    Martijn van Duijn, Oct 12, 2006
    #6
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