how do I develop a photo????? PLEEEEEZ HELP!?

Discussion in '35mm Cameras' started by Chris Loffredo, Aug 24, 2006.

  1. I assume you are going to use Black and white.

    If you use the paper you bought inside the camera, you'll end up with a
    negative image.
    You could contact print the paper negative to get a positive, but it
    will be a bit fuzzy.
    Otherwise you need to use film (what size/format?).

    Bare bones, you will need:
    1) Negative developer (in a pinch, you can also use it to develop paper).
    2) Fixer.
    3) Reccommended - pure white vinegar and a few drops of dishwashing
    detergent or baby shampoo.

    Life will be much easier (maybe - if you figure how to load it) if you
    can use a developing tank.

    If you can answer the question about the film size and can get hold of
    the ingredients I listed, I'll look around for a good site.
     
    Chris Loffredo, Aug 24, 2006
    #1
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  2. Chris Loffredo

    max_rodimon Guest

    HI, i made a pinhole camera for a school project, but i dont know how
    to develop the film. i cant ask my teacher, and there are no books in
    any of the librarys. the paper came with directions, but i dont
    understand them at all. the paper is ILFORD MGV MULTIGRADE IV RC
    DELUXE. Pleeeeeeezzzzzz help me, i have to know before school starts!
     
    max_rodimon, Aug 24, 2006
    #2
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  3. Chris Loffredo

    ShibbyShane Guest

    Do you have to develop the film yourself? If you don't then just take
    it to a film processor. If you do then go to your school's photo lab
    and ask someone there.. the process is different for black and white
    and color film, and I don't feel like going through it all.
     
    ShibbyShane, Aug 24, 2006
    #3
  4. Chris Loffredo

    max Guest

    Hi, i'm using black and white, and the problem is that its still summer
    in maine, and when my parents get home, the school is already closed,
    Does anyone know of a website that could go over EVERYTHING? i tried
    the library, and the only one that had a book was not in my town, so
    they old me i would have to pay 20 dollars a month for an account. This
    would help alot cause i dont have long b4 school
    thanx
     
    max, Aug 24, 2006
    #4
  5. Chris Loffredo

    Draco Guest

    Hi Max,
    What type of film(manufacture & size) did you use?
    Knowing this will help others give you the
    correct information to develop and print your
    images.
    If you are using film(B&W) try and see
    if there is a local lab who can progess it for you.
    If you are using paper for your negative then
    all you would need is a dark room, a
    red light (15 watts or less), a few
    trays and chemistry.

    There are a lot of folks who can answer your
    questions. As long as we have some
    idea of what your materials are, you will
    get honest answers.


    Draco


    Getting even isn't good enough.
     
    Draco, Aug 24, 2006
    #5
  6. Chris Loffredo

    Kinon O'Cann Guest

    Is that film or paper? Sounds like a multigrade/multicontrast paper. It'll
    make a big difference in the process (different chemicals). Read the box.
    It's common for pinhole cameras, like the ones made from Quaker Oats boxes
    to use a piece of black and white paper instead of film.
     
    Kinon O'Cann, Aug 24, 2006
    #6
  7. Chris Loffredo

    max Guest

    HI, i'm using paper, it is 5x7 and it is black and white. i dont have
    any chemicals yet because i dont want to buy any and find out i need
    more and have to make another trip out. i'm planning on doing it
    myself, so all i really need is a list of good brands, and how to use
    them.
    thanx
     
    max, Aug 24, 2006
    #7
  8. Chris Loffredo

    Peter Irwin Guest

    Paper developer - Anything sold as paper developer will
    work fine. Kodak Dektol (comes in a yellow foil package
    of powder) is the standard one, and it is the one I use.
    Some people prefer the liquid concentrates. Kodak, Ilford
    and Agfa are all good. Make sure it says on the package that
    it is intended for black and white paper. (Film developer
    will develop paper very slowly and may not give good blacks)

    Stop Bath - 1.25% acetic acid is usual. I use one part
    vinegar to three parts water. Photo stores will sell
    bottles of 28% acetic acid which you dilute more.
    Some stop baths have indicator dye so they change
    colour when carried over developer has neutralised the
    acid. Ilford brand stop bath uses citric acid which
    doesn't smell.

    Fixer - Use any brand of rapid fixer liquid concentrate.
    Dilute as directed on the bottle.

    Peter.
     
    Peter Irwin, Aug 25, 2006
    #8
  9. Chris Loffredo

    Ron Manfredi Guest

    Peter Irwin wrote:

    Develop the paper about 1-1 1/2 minutes.
    This will work fine. Just dip the print in for about 15 seconds.
    Photo stores will sell
    Leave the paper in the fixer about 2-3 minutes. Make sure you do not
    put on the lights until the paper has been fixed at least a minute.

    Wash in a tray with running water for about 4 minutes and then pat dry
    with a paper towel, and let them air dry, or use a hair dryer on low to
    dry the paper.

    Peter gave you a great answer. Remember you will need to develop your
    paper in a dark room; bathroom at night with the window covered works.
    You can use a small (5-7 Watt) red bulb at least 6 feet away from the
    paper developer tray as a safelight so you can see what you are doing.
    Be sure to leave the paper in the fixer at least a minute before putting
    on the regular "white" lights!

    You will have developed a negative on a sheet of photo paper. Next step
    will be to make a contact print (positive) from it.

    Under the red safelight:
    Place the dry negative on top of new sheet of paper. The shiney side of
    the new paper should be facing up, and place the negative on top of it.

    Hold it down under a clear sheet of glass (use old picture frame glass)
    and then turn on the white light for about 1-2 seconds. This is where
    you will have to experiment a bit to get the right exposure. Remember
    that the MORE light that hits the paper, the DARKER the print will be.
    Try developing the new sheet of paper, and you will have a print
    (positive) of your work.

    Good luck!

    Ron
     
    Ron Manfredi, Aug 25, 2006
    #9
  10. Chris Loffredo

    max Guest

    hey guys, thanks for the help. but one more question, i probably should
    have asked this alot earlyer. how long should i let the photo expose in
    the camera before shutting it and taking it to the darkroom?
    p.s. i'm using a quaker oatmealbox & 5x7 photo paper resin coated i
    think.
    thanx
     
    max, Aug 26, 2006
    #10
  11. Chris Loffredo

    Ron Manfredi Guest

    Depends on the size of the "pinhole". You might try something around
    8-10 seconds as a start if it is a very bright sunny day. Remember that
    to see a change in exposure, you will have to double or halve the
    exposure time. So, you might want to try 10, 20 and 40 second
    exposures, and then develop all of them at the same time. You can write
    on the back of the photo paper with a pen (sharpie) to keep records.
    (remember to do this under safelights!) Hold the camera as steady as
    possible.

    Ron
     
    Ron Manfredi, Aug 26, 2006
    #11
  12. You'll have to experiment in any case.

    IIRC, a pinhole is somewhere on the order of f/128 (depending on the
    size of the hole & the size of the box).

    Photographic paper is somewhere around 8 iso.

    If those values are accurate, that should give you about 8 seconds on a
    sunny day.

    I'd try 2, 8 and 30 seconds.

    For the test, you might want to photograph something with mid tones
    (that will turn out medium grey in the final print) so you can see
    middle gray also on your paper negative.
     
    Chris Loffredo, Aug 26, 2006
    #12
  13. BTW: It seems that if you make the hole in aluminium foil, it will be
    sharper than in cardboard.
    Cut a larger hole in your box where you want your pinhole, glue alu foil
    over it and make the hole in the foil.

    Have fun!
     
    Chris Loffredo, Aug 26, 2006
    #13
  14. Chris Loffredo

    no_name Guest

    sounds like he's exposed photographic paper as his negative. Maybe this
    will help.

    http://photography.about.com/cs/techniques/ht/BW_Printing.htm

    If you don't have the chemicals, here's a possible substitute

    http://www.rit.edu/~andpph/text-coffee.html

    --

    These are my views. If you've got a problem with it, you can blame it on
    me, but this is what I think. I am not the official spokes-person for
    any Government, Commercial or Educational institution.

    John
     
    no_name, Aug 28, 2006
    #14
  15. Chris Loffredo

    darkroommike Guest

    A little off topic, but, why not find or buy at a thrift shop an old
    Polaroid camera that will use Type 107/667 film, saw off the whole
    camera just ahead of the film pack and mate it to your pinhole box
    camera, now you have a pinhole camera using a very fast film (ISO 3000)
    that develops in 15 seconds?

    darkroommike
     
    darkroommike, Sep 10, 2006
    #15
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