How do you clean a Nikon SLR and strap covered in toxic chemicals?

Discussion in 'Photography' started by Danny D., Jan 9, 2013.

  1. Danny D.

    Danny D. Guest

    Well stated!

    I will look up if the favored solutions will damage the polycarbonate
    body of the Nikon D5000 SLR.

    For the equipment, the favored solutions is a mix of:
    - 1/3 non-bleaching oxidizer (e.g., pool trichlor or non-chlorine bleach)
    - 1/3 wetting agent (e.g., rubbing alcohol or acetone)
    - 1/3 surfactant (e.g., dish detergent)

    For the polycarbonate camera body, I probably should NOT use acetone (as
    someone already stated), nor common household chlorine (sodium
    hypochlorite), which may oxidize too much on the camera body.

    But what do you think of the rest of the chemicals?
    That's vastly less worrisome because it can take being soaked in the
    solution; but the camera has to be done muuuuuch more carefully!
     
    Danny D., Jan 10, 2013
    #21
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  2. Danny D.

    Danny D. Guest

    The strap is going into the wash tomorrow. Before/after pictures will
    result and you'll be the first to know whether or not it gets ruined.
    All cameras are sacrificial. I have a box of Nikons all broken over the
    years. I can snap a picture of them if you like - but the plain fact is
    that, to me, a camera is worthless as a camera if I don't have it with me
    when I want to snap a picture.

    Of course, it's my fault for buying a cheap ($1000) Nikon SLR - my next
    SLR will be metal!
    I'm not at all worried about the chain saw. The kids and wife never touch
    it, for example. And I can dump it in the cleaning fluid and wash it off
    with the hose. Hell, Technu (according to the Davis site you pointed me
    to) is made out of gasoline anyway! :) So, I could pour gasoline on it,
    and that would work as well.

    None of that will work on the SLR!
    I agree. Gasoline should work, as it's, apparently, poor-man's Technu
    anyway!
     
    Danny D., Jan 10, 2013
    #22
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  3. Danny D.

    Savageduck Guest

    Ok! I'm down at Lake Nacimiento.
    I have a friend, another retired Lt. who lives up in the Santa Cruz
    Mountains outside of Felton.
     
    Savageduck, Jan 10, 2013
    #23
  4. Danny D.

    Savageduck Guest

    Yup! CDF firefighters are probably the one group with the highest
    exposure and at the highest risk for inhalation injury. Them, and
    marijuana growers.
    Unfortunately, I don't know where to get any of those items. I would
    think injection molding suppliers would be able to provide polyethylene
    granules.
    ....and Google is your friend, leading to one of many.
    < http://www.goodfellow.com/E/Polyethylene-High-density-Granule.html >
    However I suspect quantities are going to be the issue.
     
    Savageduck, Jan 10, 2013
    #24
  5. Danny D.

    Danny D. Guest

    Since I have a few spots of the rash forming on my ears, neck, cheek,
    wrists, and ankle, I'm going to beef up my poor-man's Zanfel/Technu by
    picking up some spermicide at the local drug store tomorrow.

    Googling, I find spermicide is usually bundled with an oily lubricant,
    which kind of defeats my purpose, so I'll have to look carefully for
    "just" the spermicide sans unwanted oils.

    As for the PEG granules, I suspect I can use almost anything slightly
    gritty, such as talcum powder or toothpaste on the rash spots that I have
    along with the solution.

    So, here's the 'kit' I'll be making up for the rash in 1/3 quantities:
    a) Oxidizer (bleach or pool trichlor)
    b) Wetting agent (rubbing alcohol)
    c) Surfactant (dish detergent)

    In the shower, I will apply that triplet solution plus I'll squirt a dab
    of spermicide and a squish of toothpaste at the rash itself.

    Then I'll rub those five ingredients together (poor man's Zanfel/Technu)
    on the rash. Hopefully that will work - but the chances of that lessening
    the rash is slim given the time lag.

    But the solution and ingredients should work for the next time, when I
    can carry the 5 ingredients out to the field to wash up.
     
    Danny D., Jan 10, 2013
    #25
  6. Danny D.

    Savageduck Guest

    That is my concern.
    If you are referring to the coatings, I would first ask if you had any
    sort of filter on your lens. if you did, just remove the filter and
    clean with soap and water. Wipe down with a lint free cloth. This would
    have been one of those times having a "protective" filter on the lens
    would have been helpful. If not, and the lens is visibly contaminated,
    a drop of IPA on a lint free cloth, NOT a COTTON BALL or SWAP, if you
    can get some PEC Pads use those;
    Micro-Tools seem to be out of stock at the moment, so head to the
    obvious source
    That should be the least of your problems.
    Sensitivity to allergens is one of those things which can be
    unpredictable. I have seen some guys who show no signs of sensitivity
    for years, and suddenly they have a disabling reaction far worse than
    average when exposed.
    I don't think that sort of time frame can be written in stone. Some of
    the worst reaction I have seen have come hours after initial contact
    when removing contaminated clothing.
    My days of deliberately placing myself in harms way are long over.
    If it is to provide an abrasive suspended in the decontamination
    liquid/lotion/gel, try coarse sugar, or even rice.
     
    Savageduck, Jan 10, 2013
    #26
  7. Let go, Grasshopper.
     
    Charles E. Hardwidge, Jan 10, 2013
    #27
  8. Danny D.

    Danny D. Guest

    Unfortunately ... I broke my filter.

    So no. There is no filter, as I haven't had a chance to replace it yet.
    So the lens is almost certainly splattered with urushiol as I tried to
    make a movie of a vine being cut at the base.
     
    Danny D., Jan 10, 2013
    #28
  9. Danny D.

    Savageduck Guest

     
    Savageduck, Jan 10, 2013
    #29
  10. Maybe you should use solvent on the chainsaw, and save the petrol and box of
    matches for the camera?
     
    Charles E. Hardwidge, Jan 10, 2013
    #30
  11. Danny D.

    Eric Stevens Guest

    You have to get in quickly with the cut stumps. I don't know the time
    for poison oak but within 2 or 3 minutes is not unusual. When you cut
    a stump it first oozes sap and then the flow reverses. If you don't
    get in by that stage there will be nothing to suck the glyphosphate
    back into the stump. Leaving it that late is too late.
     
    Eric Stevens, Jan 10, 2013
    #31
  12. Danny D.

    Martin Brown Guest

    Glad it helps. I would still be inclined to put a sacrificial plastic
    bag outer skin on your camera next time or use a throw away one.
    Sort of knowing what to look for - I am a scientist by training.
    Be careful since you need to get every last trace of it detoxified.

    I also lived in Japan where urushiol based lacquerware is common.
    (once the stuff is fully polymerised it is a benign natural plastic)

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lacquer_tree

    It is wise to treat anything in Anacardiaceae with some care.
     
    Martin Brown, Jan 10, 2013
    #32
  13. Danny D.

    Martin Brown Guest

    Too late you need to do it to a freshly cut stump. The sap will have
    formed a pretty much impervious barrier overnight.
    That is because the sap resin exuded tends to prevent uptake of the
    poison. The tree is defending itself from predation and using WWI class
    chemical weapons. Only a handful of rare exotic plants are nastier.
    No it isn't. They are right. Follow their advice.

    If you want to see why they give that advice get your hands well covered
    in black soot and wash one in hot and one in cold water.
    No they are right.

    A small number of lucky people do not react at all - they tend to find
    employment in Japan working with urushiol lacquer. A fraction are also
    tolerant on very first exposure but then sensitised by it and will react
    allergically on subsequent exposure. Complacency is dangerous.
    They are erring on the side of caution. I think this is wise.

    If you are handling seriously nasty chemicals it is wise to have the
    antidote, cleaning materials and remedial treatments close at hand.
     
    Martin Brown, Jan 10, 2013
    #33
  14. Danny D.

    Danny D. Guest

    Aha!

    That explains why I failed to eradicate Spanish Broom on my property
    in addition to the Poison Oak.

    Recently I learned you need to apply the glyphosate within minutes
    of chainsawing the Spanish Broom.

    I never knew why - and - I thought it was specific to Spanish Broom.

    From what you're saying, it's the way plants work.
    http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/11926626/img/11926626.jpg
     
    Danny D., Jan 10, 2013
    #34
  15. Danny D.

    Danny D. Guest

    Given urushiol is a specifically nasty toxic biochemical ...

    Here is my newly created urushiol antidote kit:
    http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/11926557/img/11926557.jpg

    I used it just now on my neck, cheek, ear, wrist, & ankle rashes.

    The only thing missing is a non-oily spermicide.

    I will go to the drugstore tomorrow to see if I can find it there.
     
    Danny D., Jan 10, 2013
    #35
  16. Negroes often used this chemical whilst riding on the underground
    railroad during the Civil War to mask their distinctive odor from eating
    loads of collared greens and watermelon. Too bad for them General Lee
    caught them when they farted up their porch monkey diet.
     
    Kwincay Ercolinowitz, Jan 10, 2013
    #36
  17. Danny D.

    Alan Browne Guest

    Call a poison control center.

    You may not like their reply if you like your gear.
     
    Alan Browne, Jan 11, 2013
    #37
  18. Danny D.

    Danny D. Guest

    I just found out from patent litigation reviews that "Mean Green" might
    also clean the Nikon D5000 camera as well as the tremendously more
    expensive Zanfel does.

    According to the MSDS:
    http://www.meangreendegreaser.com/msds-information
    Mean Green contains a glycol ether, i.e., 2-butoxyethanol
    (spermicide equivalent) and Tetrasodium EDTA (surfactant).

    Interestingly, the MSDS says to avoid strong oxidizing agents
    (e.g., bleach), so I need to find out why as I plan on
    adding an oxidizing agent to my home-made camera cleansing solution.
     
    Danny D., Jan 11, 2013
    #38
  19. Danny D.

    Danny D. Guest

    That suggestion is paying off big time as it helped me find this recent
    patent application:

    http://tinyurl.com/5b78ua
    Urushiol induced contact dermatitis solution

    The secret ingredient is apparently the ethoxylate (i.e., spermicide).

    Here is their summary (verbatim) of the action:

    The composition comprises at least one ethoxylate in combination with a
    supporting agent. It is believed that this combination binds to the
    available urushiol receptors rendering it inactive. The affinity of the
    receptors for the ethoxylates also appears to cause a release of the
    urushiol from its epidermal bonds for bonding to the composition. An
    inert scrubbing agent, such as polyethylene beads, can also be included
    to assist in the release of the urushiol.

    So, we have the first patent saying the secret ingredient is the
    chloramine oxidizer, while this one says it's the non-ionic surfactant.

    Point is, combined, that might just make the winning mixture!
     
    Danny D., Jan 11, 2013
    #39
  20. Danny D.

    Eric Stevens Guest

    Ever heard of hypergolic rocket fuel?
     
    Eric Stevens, Jan 11, 2013
    #40
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