I did copperhill sensor-clean method

Discussion in 'Digital SLR' started by Musty, May 4, 2005.

  1. Musty

    Musty Guest

    Hi All,

    Just wanted to update the group. Many months ago I was able to successfully
    use use a bulb blower to clean most of the dust of my sensor. Unfortunately,
    there were two very small dark specs left.

    I decided to order the copperhill equipment:

    I am not a clumsy person is an means, and I took my time. I did this for
    about 20 iterations and all that happened was that the sensor would be
    almost clean one round and then the next it would have 30 spots, then 3,
    then 20, then 5 etc. In the end I just stopped with about 3-4 spots and used
    my trusty blower. I seriously did 20+ iterations.

    My experience has shown me that the blower is the most effective, easiest
    and safe method. I hope that I have not damaged my sensor in any way
    (atleast I see no signs of damage).

    Strangely, I am now seeing a thread on dpreview forums, where people are
    talking about using Scoth 811 tape!! Anyone used this?

    Musty, May 4, 2005
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  2. I tried blowing first, and never accomplished anything but moving the
    dust around on the sensor. So I went to swabs and Eclipse, using
    basically the copperhill technique. I once had to clean twice, when I
    somehow created a big blotch, but that was my very first time. I've
    never had to clean twice since then.

    However, I'm not expecting *zero* spots, either. Just like I never
    got *zero* spots on film negatives.
    Not on the sensor, no. I used Scotch tape to clean the window on my
    finger print sensor, though. It was the only way they recommended.
    David Dyer-Bennet, May 5, 2005
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  3. Musty

    eawckyegcy Guest

    My experience is that "the blower" is completely ineffective.

    Your experience is that of someone who just plodded on in the face of
    ignorance. You should have wondered what you were doing wrong, or
    reconsidered your goal, after about 3 tries. Honest to Bob:
    clean-freakishness is generally a really bad thing re: optics.
    Fortunately for you, short of a chisel or similar, hurting the sensor
    isn't easy. Twenty times though...
    If I said I use a #3 blasting cap, would you believe me?

    How to clean and resurface the 200" mirror at Palomar:


    One needs an extremely clean surface for the aluminum to precipitate
    evenly and firmly. The original technique -- due to Strong (see
    Richard Preston's "First Light") -- was to smear the mirror with some
    kind of hair tonic (if I remember right) and proceed to barbeque. When
    the tonic evaporates, it takes the crud with it; aluminum is then
    vapourized and 'sticks'.

    Nowadays things are done by the book, established by committee and
    subject to majority vote.
    eawckyegcy, May 5, 2005
  4. Musty

    Musty Guest

    Yes I agree, although no damage is done by this foolishness. I think I was
    just getting pissed off that the darn thing would leave a spot or two on
    each iteration and I would not give up. Having said that, I think part of
    the problem is that the sensor is charged when the camera is on (attracting
    dust) and for each iteration I went outside and shot the sky (to check the
    results). I think its actually very difficult to do any damage to the sensor
    after having done it. After using the blower, there is only 1 spot left. I
    think the swab method is not that great since it moves dust from the edges
    to the center of the sensor, but I will try it again (I have become quite an
    expert in wrapping a pec-pad around the sensor-swipe).

    If canon come out with a self cleaning camera, the 20D will be Ebayed

    Musty, May 6, 2005
  5. Musty

    andrew29 Guest

    No: the sensor is only charged to a few volts, but dust-sttracting
    static voltages are in the kilovolt range.

    andrew29, May 6, 2005
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