ILFORD FP4 125 Plus

Discussion in 'Photography' started by ATNG, Dec 6, 2003.

  1. ATNG

    ATNG Guest

    Hi Group,

    Regarding the ILFORD FP4 125 Plus, can anyone tell me what the ideal ISO is
    to shot this at?


    ATNG, Dec 6, 2003
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  2. ATNG

    Webkatz Guest

    Webkatz, Dec 6, 2003
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  3. ATNG

    gunner Guest

    It depends on your camera, lens, light meter and process. 'The Negative' by
    Ansel Adams is an excellent guide to calibrating all of the above for
    producing good, sturdy negatives. Alternatively, if you don't want to go to
    so much trouble, I would suggest 100 ASA for easy to print negs.
    gunner, Dec 7, 2003
  4. ATNG

    ATNG Guest

    Thank you - that's the type of info I'm seeking. Will get the book :)

    ATNG, Dec 9, 2003
  5. ATNG

    Mick Paul Guest

    Marty , If you want truly beautiful negs , try FP4 at 200asa and develop in
    Ilford Microphen , it truly is the best of both worlds as far as film speed
    ,grain and tonality.

    If not rate at 125 and take it from there, Ansel Adams Books are very
    complicated and you have to be dedicated to get even close to what he
    produced, it really depends on what kind of work you are doing and the
    results that you wish to achieve.

    Mick Paul, Dec 10, 2003
  6. ATNG

    ATNG Guest

    Thank you Mick and very nice work BTW. (Visited your web site).


    ATNG, Dec 11, 2003
  7. ATNG

    Mick Paul Guest

    Thanks Marty email me anytime if you want any help , BTW is
    a really good site and has lots of Info.

    Mick Paul, Dec 11, 2003
  8. ATNG

    Karl Winkler Guest

    Marty, I agree with the other comments about "try it for yourself" as
    the best way to determine the "ideal" ISO. I personally shoot FP4+ as
    my main BW film, and rate it at 100, and develop it in Rodinal diluted
    1:50 for 15 min at 68 deg. Lots of detail, nice tonality, and moderate
    grain. The extra 1/3 stop brings up a tad more detail in the shadows.

    I've also read "The Negative" by Adams and consider it a very
    important book. Although a lot of what he says is complicated, the
    basic conclusion I came to was "overexpose and underdevelop" to reduce
    contrast and make your negatives easier to scan or print.
    Oversimplified? Yes. But it works for me.

    Best of luck,

    Karl Winkler, Dec 20, 2003
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