Ilford Pan F plus ISO 50 pushing to ISO 200.

Discussion in 'Darkroom Developing and Printing' started by Grynfilda, Aug 30, 2007.

  1. Grynfilda

    Grynfilda Guest

    He!

    I've got a simple question. I've tried find the answer in internet but
    it wasn't easy.
    Did somebody pushing Ilford Pan F plus ISO 50 to ISO 100 or 200 using
    the developer Ilford Microphen,(that's what I've got in this moment)?
    If it's will be necessary I'll bay different kind of developer.
    I expect concrete answer on this subject.

    Thanks a lot.

    Grynfilda
     
    Grynfilda, Aug 30, 2007
    #1
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  2. Grynfilda

    UC Guest


    No, you cannot oush film, and certainly not a slow film such as Pan-F.
    It will be underexposed no matter what you do to it.
     
    UC, Aug 30, 2007
    #2
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  3. Microphen is probably the best developer to use for this. I used
    a 15% developer time increase per stop when I used to push.

    I would not push for 1 stop. The increase in grain and contrast isn't
    worth it. The negatives are a bit thin but using a 1 grade increase in
    paper contrast takes care of that.

    With a 2 stop push [underexposure] the shadows are going to be flat black...

    If you haven't taken the pictures yet then I would buy a roll of ASA
    100 or 400 film instead of a different developer.
     
    Nicholas O. Lindan, Aug 30, 2007
    #3
  4. Microphen is a very good pushing developer as are the
    Kodak T-Max developers and Xtol. Any of these falls in the
    first choice catagory for pushing.
    2 stops is about the limit on pushing any film. As a
    rule of thumb a one stop push required increasing developing
    time about 1.5 times and 2 stops about 3 times, however, it
    may be somewhat more or less for some films. For instance,
    Tabular grain films change contrast more rapidly with
    development time than conventional films. Pan-F is a
    conventional film.
    Note that by pushing you are really just increasing
    contrast. The low light exposures will be on the "toe" of
    the film characteristic where contrast is lower than on the
    middle or straight line part of the film curve. In order to
    get printable contrast in the toe the development is
    increased to increase the contrast there. However overall
    contrast is also increased so parts of the image which have
    received greater exposure may become very contrasty and
    dense. Films intended for pushing like Kodak T-Max P3200
    have special curve shapes to minimise this problem but
    otherwise it usually takes some burning or dodging in
    printing to control.
    You will be ahead of the game by using a faster film to
    begin with and may wind up with finer grain. My suggestion
    is to try a good 400 speed film and shoot at that speed with
    normal processing. You will get better shadow detail and
    much easier to print negatives.
    Note that the ISO speed of a film is determined at a
    fixed contrast or gamma. The speed will appear to vary when
    development is changed because the contrast is changed but
    there is no real change in the ability of the film to record
    minimal exposures. At some point the exposure will just fall
    below the point where it will make the halide grains
    developable so there will be no image regardless of the type
    of developer or how much development time is extended.
     
    Richard Knoppow, Aug 30, 2007
    #4
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