Is the D70S the new improved model of the D70 or is it just a cheaper and newer one?

Discussion in 'Digital SLR' started by Bob, Jun 11, 2005.

  1. Bob

    Bob Guest

    Should I think of upgrading some day or is it just marketing?

    Thanks
     
    Bob, Jun 11, 2005
    #1
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  2. Bob

    Darrell Guest

    Same camera with a 2" LCD vs 1.8" and a wired cable release socket, plus new
    firmware and a price increase.
     
    Darrell, Jun 11, 2005
    #2
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  3. Bob

    Sheldon Guest

    And you can upload the new S firmware to your D70. Free download from
    Nikon.
     
    Sheldon, Jun 11, 2005
    #3
  4. Bob

    DoN. Nichols Guest

    And, apparently, a modified eyepiece.
    Well ... I suspect that it is not the D70s firmware, but just
    the firmware for the D70 which does everything that the D70s does
    entirely in firmware (new autofocus algorithms, slightly different menu
    format, plus a few extra menu entries. I'm reasonably sure that there
    are also firmware differences for both the remote connector (unless it
    is just plain wired in parallel with the normal shutter release button),
    and probably also different parameters for the larger display -- unless
    the pixel count in both is identical, (with just larger pixels in the new
    larger display.)

    I do have the updated firmware (V2.0) installed in my D70, and I
    can at least testify that it did not appear to break anything, and that
    the menu looks somewhat different. :)

    Enjoy,
    DoN.
     
    DoN. Nichols, Jun 11, 2005
    #4
  5. Bob

    Bob Guest

    OK thanks guys!

    I downloaded the new software, have yet to install it...

    The viewer on the back has no interest for me, I only glance at it to make sure
    I got some kind of picture... the reason I bought the SLR is so I don't have to
    squint at displays! Without my reading glasses I can't see it anyway!
     
    Bob, Jun 11, 2005
    #5
  6. Bob

    DoN. Nichols Guest

    [ ... ]

    [ ... ]
    O.K. Remember that you do have to do it with a real CF card,
    not a micro-drive, just in case you happen to have the latter. But an
    ancient 8MB one is quite sufficient for the task.
    Hmm ... does the eyepiece focus adjustment cover a sufficient
    range to allow you to use that without the glasses? I find that the
    best way to adjust it is to turn on the grid lines and the AF area
    indicator, and aim the camera at something totally plain. That way, you
    are adjusting so your eye focuses right on the screen, and it is not
    being pulled by some image on the screen, which may or may not be
    properly in focus.

    Enjoy,
    DoN.
     
    DoN. Nichols, Jun 11, 2005
    #6
  7. Bob

    Bob Guest


    For some reason, I can't see through the viewfinder with my glasses on, I have
    to take them off, and then I see quite well... what I did was set the camera to
    auto focus and aimed at a good contrasty object, and adjusted the eyepiece till
    it looked good. I also check to see if the little green dot comes on as well
    when I am focusing.

    I just can't see anything in the LCD though, that's why I scrapped my Minolta
    ZLR, well one of the reasons!!

    But I wish the D70 had a split focus screen like my old Mamiya! Or even my old
    Minolta X9. Or was that F9... hey I still have film in the fridge!! wow!!
     
    Bob, Jun 12, 2005
    #7
  8. Bob

    Ken Tough Guest

    Anyone notice any improvement in the autofocus? It's not great
    sometimes, especially in low light..
     
    Ken Tough, Jun 12, 2005
    #8
  9. Bob

    Pete D Guest

    Don't worry it is not the only camera to suffer from that, just use manual
    focus in low light.
     
    Pete D, Jun 13, 2005
    #9
  10. Bob

    Ken Tough Guest

    Yeah, the only problem there is that the focussing screen is not
    very good for manual focus. It could use a split ring or similar;
    just the ground glass alone is a bit hit & miss.
     
    Ken Tough, Jun 13, 2005
    #10
  11. Bob

    Deedee Tee Guest

    [...]
    I agree, the D70/D70s/D50's ground glass is not so good for precision
    focusing by hand. I find it slightly easier by turning the grid lines
    on (on D70s, don't know about other models) because this gives me
    something sharp to compare the sharpness of the image with. It may or
    may not work for you. A split ring or microprisms probably could be
    advantageous with medium-length lenses (but then would turn completely
    black with very dim tele lenses and high magnification macro).
     
    Deedee Tee, Jun 13, 2005
    #11
  12. Bob

    DoN. Nichols Guest

    It is a bit more than just a ground glass. Defocus enough and
    you can tell that it is a microprism focusing screen.

    I'm not sure, but I suspect that a split-image center focusing
    screen would disrupt either the autofocus or the auto-exposure systems --
    especially the spot metering part.

    The autofocus seems to work quite well in low light with the
    50mm f1.4, but then you would expect that. :)

    Enjoy,
    DoN.
     
    DoN. Nichols, Jun 13, 2005
    #12
  13. Bob

    Ken Tough Guest

    Interesting. Can you compare it to the 50mm f1.8? I'm not overly
    impressed with the f1.8 action.
     
    Ken Tough, Jun 14, 2005
    #13
  14. Bob

    Roger Guest

    It's easy to do.
    I copied the update to the root directory of the CF card in the card
    reader, stuck it in the camera, selected the firmware version in the
    menu, update, yes, and that was it. It only took a few seconds.
    I rarely ever turn the LCD on. It, like all LCD viewers I've seen is
    far too small to show if the image is sharp or now, although you can
    check composition.
    I found the diopter adjustment to work very well. I let the camera
    focus on something with contrast and then set the diopter, but I much
    prefer the diopter adjustment of the F4S. It's far easier to adjust.

    Near as I can tell the D7 and D7s use the same firm ware, but I could
    have missed something.

    The added wired remote is enough for me to purchase the body to use in
    conjunction with the one I have now. OTOH I sure with they'd given it
    the ability to shoot with the mirror locked up. On a 1200 or 2500 mm
    lens (Meade 10" telescope) even that little mirror creates noticeable
    shake that takes up to 10 seconds to dampen out.

    Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
    (N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
    www.rogerhalstead.com
     
    Roger, Jun 14, 2005
    #14
  15. Bob

    DoN. Nichols Guest

    No, I'm afraid that I can't. I don't have the f1.8. But so
    far, on the f1.4 I haven't had to go to manual focus, unlike the
    28-105mm f3.5-4.5 D which is my other autofocus lens. In certain
    conditions, especially on something with little contrast, It will sweep
    back and forth between closest focus and infinity and not hit the proper
    focus. I usually either re-compose to bring a more contrasty part
    into the focus zone (I often forget about relocating the zone), lock the
    focus and re-compose. Other times, I will simply switch off AF, and
    manually focus it. This is particularly a problem when I'm in the Macro
    mode, using the SB-800 with the diffuser for illumination, working on a
    laptop table in a relatively dark room. I can eliminate that problem by
    using auxiliary lighting (one of the little Halogen desktop lights), but
    then I have the competing color balance problem. :)

    Note that this photography is usually to document a project
    (where I am making parts for something, and want to put up a web page to
    show others how to do it), not for art photography.

    Enjoy,
    DoN.
     
    DoN. Nichols, Jun 14, 2005
    #15
  16. Bob

    DoN. Nichols Guest

    [ ... ]

    [ ... ]

    [ ... ]
    Except remember that you have to do it twice -- once for the 'A'
    part and once for the 'B' part.

    I even did it without a Windows or a Mac involved (the only two
    for which they post instructions). :)
    Hit the "ENTER/Qual" button and you get an enlarged center
    section. Hit the ISO button while the enlarged center is displaying and
    you can use the thumbwheel to enlarge or shrink the zone displayed, and
    the "tiling poker chip" to walk the zone viewed around on the screen.
    That is enough to show whether you are seriously out of focus, at least.

    And remember -- you can also judge exposure (including having
    blown highlights flagged by blinking black/white alternation), and you
    can use the poker chip to walk over to a display of the histogram, if
    you want another way to judge the exposure.
    I've no experience with the F4S, so I can't compare them. But I
    prefer to adjust the exposure against a fully out-of-focus plain
    background, but with the grid and the autofocus region indicators on, so
    I'm sure that my eye focus isn't being pulled by something almost in
    focus but not quite (which could make it a more tiring thing to use).
    D70 and D70s you mean? I suspect that there are detail parts of
    the two which differ. Ones related to the display size (number of
    pixels), and those (perhaps) related to the wired remote, if it is not
    the same wires as are going to the camera-top shutter release.
    Hmm ... can you add a gentle solenoid shutter between the camera
    body and the telescope? That would allow you to wait for the vibrations
    to damp out before opening this secondary shutter for the actual
    exposure? Perhaps even a Pockles (sp?) cell or other electro-optical
    shutter so there would be *no* vibration.

    Enjoy,
    DoN.
     
    DoN. Nichols, Jun 14, 2005
    #16
  17. Bob

    Ken Tough Guest

    I find the same, and also sometimes with the 70-210 f4-5.6 (razor
    wire was a surprisingly hard thing to AF on). Okay then, would you
    say the new firmware has made any difference to the performance of
    your 28-105?
     
    Ken Tough, Jun 15, 2005
    #17
  18. Bob

    DoN. Nichols Guest

    Not that I have noticed -- but I usually switch to the 50mm f1.4
    for low light conditions, so it *may* have made a difference that I have
    not noticed.

    Sorry for the lack of details. I suspect that to notice the
    difference I might have to set up a patched camera and an unpatched one
    side by side and swap the lens between them.

    And the improvement from the firmware might be in other areas
    than the low-light autofocus. (I don't remember reading any details as
    to what part of autofocus was supposed to be improved.) It might be an
    improvement in the algorithm which selects which zone to use (closest
    subject) or something like that.

    If you have the camera, and it is not yet patched, run tests,
    and then patch it and run them again. To me, whatever the change is, it
    would appear to be either rather subtle, or in a part of the autofocus
    which I don't use.

    Enjoy,
    DoN.
     
    DoN. Nichols, Jun 15, 2005
    #18
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