It works! GPS powered by D200

It's still sort of kludgy, but I spliced a Garmin GPS18 LVC to a DB9,
plugged it into an MC-35, and powered it by splicing the 5v power line
from a sliced MC-23 into the power line of the GPS18. I plug the half
MC-23 into the 10-pin port of the MC-35 port, and it powers the device.

I then screwed the GPS18 into a BS-1 plastic shoe insert with an M3
screw, and it's ready to go.

Next step is to remove the MC-35 completely, and just wire the half
MC-23 directly to the GPS puck. When I do it now it gets power but no
GPS signal. There seems to be one wire I'm getting wrong. I took my
first GPS-marked photos with it tonight.

I'm going to write up the whole thing and post it on my blog when I get
a chance, but it can be done. I even taught myself how to tin wires!

 

What's the current draw in milliamps of the Garmin? Two problems with
having accessories powered by the D200 is the already dismal battery life
and the fragile DC regulator board, which requires factory replacement if
you pop it. Always power the accessories from their own supply.

Smart move isolating the PS.

Just make sure you're not using acid core solder. A good 50/50 rosin core
is the best, but that new fangled lead free stuff works great. I love the
smell of the rosin.






Rita

 

It specs out at 60 mA @ 5.0v. (Rated for 4.0 to 5.5v.)

Er...what type comes with the Radio Shack economy soldering gun?

I am a software guy! Only got one red-hot finger burn during the project.

 

60mA really isn't bad. What is rated for, I'm assuming you are saying, 4A?
If that Garmin has any functions that would have a 4A peak I wouldn't let it
near my D200 if I couldn't use a separate power source.

Probably lead free. You got the right stuff.

Not bad! Welcome to the club. Oh, if you worry about not using the
soldering iron again you can use it to burn moles off of your neck. It
works better than liquid nitrogen.







Rita

 

And someone will appreciate your documenting what you've learned.

Tinning wires before soldering is strong magic. Especially when you are
attaching them to small connectors.

Pick up a can of Oatey's lead free soldering paste in the plumbing
section of the hardware store. That is a rosin based flux and it
contains no acid or other corrosives. If you touch wires to that before
tinning or use a toothpick to put some on a connector soldering the heat
causes the rosin to flux and the solder flow and adheres much better.
One small can of that, like a shoe polish can, is a lifetime supply.
Never use acid core solder or acid based fluxes on electronic work,
things will corrode.

Sound like you might want to use some in line connectors for some of
your project. If you order a catalog from mouser.com you can spend many
happy hours looking for better ways with bits and pieces you never knew
existed.

We've had folks here mount antennas to their hats and backpacks for
hiking and mountain climbing.

Jack

 

Yes I bet you do.

 

Yes that does wonders for the complexion I can just imagine.
So I guess you'll move into the warts next :^)

 

[ ... ]

Actually 62/48 or 63/47 rosin core solder is better. It is
closer to the eutectic mix, and tends to set up suddenly, instead of
passing through a mushy state on the way to hard. 60/40 is pretty good,
but 63/47 is better.

Enjoy,
DoN.

 

Umm...isn't 63/47 equal to 110%?

How about 63/37?

 

You're right.

Thanks,
DoN.

 

LOL.

I, too, love the smell of rosin -- especially in the morning.

However, having to deal with these RoHS lead-free issues is a real pain in
the ass! I've eaten tons of lead and I feel fine -- except in the morning.

Bob

 

I feel your pain. %*&@# beurocrats.

-Mike

 

Thanks. I meant to say 60/40, which is the most common type for
electronics. What's with a 63/47? It doesn't ass up.






Rita

 

Did you ever figure out how Kester got five cores of it in their solder?
I'm still scratching my butt on that one.







Rita

 

It's the same technique that the Certs company uses to get two mints in one.

Bob

 

Ahahahahaha....gotta love typos.

 

I hate political correctness and go out of my way to be non-PC.

And my dad is the same. I laugh every time he mentions things like
lead-free paint because he didn't go around licking the walls when he
was a kid, so why would anyone else?

And I have a camera that is lead-free...I think. But either way I don't
usually lick it.

:-D

 

I don't know for sure -- but here are a couple of possible
scenarios:

======================================================================

1) Extrude the solder, much larger in size, with the five holes in
place.

2) Inject the rosin flux though the holes until it comes out the
other end.

3) Draw the solder in many passes, each draw reduces its diameter
and increases its length.

4) When it is finally small enough in diameter, wind it on a spool
and sell it.

======================================================================

1) Extrude the solder as before, but with five grooves in the
sides.

2) Inject the rosin flux into the grooves, and smooth over the
solder to close the open sides of the grooves.

3) Spool and sell as before.

I would love to know whether either of these is correct, or
whether it is actually something else.

Of course -- this does lead back to the question of how they got
the rosin into single-core solder before that -- and I would think that
the first version would be the most likely -- though they *could* have
rolled the solder out as a ribbon, then formed it to a groove, filled,
and rolled closed.

I distrust my second scenario in part because I've never seen
signs of it when manipulating solder. I would expect it to open up some
of the grooves when it is being bent sharply.

Enjoy,
DoN.

 

Actually -- not a typo -- a "thinko". I start from the 60/40,
increment the 60 to 63, and wrongly adjust the 40 *up* instead of down
to the matching '7'.

I don't know how many times I've made that same mistake over the
years. However, since I am not actually compounding the solder, just
using that produced by others, I guess that it does not matter.

50/50 solder has one advantage to the *maker* -- it is cheaper to
make. Tin costs more than lead.

And perhaps that plastic state between molten and fully set is
advantageous to those who use it (or used to use it) for automotive
bodywork. It is certainly bad news in electronics and electrical work.

Enjoy,
DoN.

 

I was referring to Ritas "ass" up.

Ooo...that doesn't sound right either.