kodak 125px underexposed (3 stops) while long-time-exposure

Discussion in 'Kodak' started by Hans Koana, Dec 8, 2008.

  1. Hans Koana

    Hans Koana Guest

    hello

    yesterday, in a dark church, where i photographed some dark choir
    stalls, i underexposed a kodak 125px (3 stops). normally i push it to
    get good grey values, which is not so bad because i shooted a roll of
    120-film (6x6). but when i made the photographs i exposed very long time
    so contrast will be enhanced a lot because of the effect of reciprocity.
    i exposed 45 sec instead of 200 sec.

    normally i develop in kodak hc 110 - b, n+0: 6,5 min. n+1: 9 min, n+2
    12,5 min. what do you mean? should i take n+2, loose 2 stops, so that
    zone v falls down at iii, whith a contrast of 3 zones, enforced by this
    long-time-exposure?

    regards h.k.
     
    Hans Koana, Dec 8, 2008
    #1
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  2. Hans Koana

    Hans Koana Guest

    Thank you very much, i will try it soon. But I think I have got to
    revisit this little church in Romont / Switzerland again to take
    photographs of the choir. Thank you again.

    Regards H.K.
     
    Hans Koana, Dec 8, 2008
    #2
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  3. That would be "I shot a roll" in English.
    Seems to me that's all you *can* do; otherwise, you're going to
    completely lose whatever shadow detail you have, or get a low-contrast,
    difficult-to-print negative.
     
    David Nebenzahl, Dec 8, 2008
    #3
  4. Hans Koana

    Hans Koana Guest


    I do not know wether this development (N+2) would be wrong because the
    scene is very dark, with wooden figures that come out of the dark
    background. I Will try it again. Thank you. Regards H.K.
     
    Hans Koana, Dec 8, 2008
    #4
  5. If you are in fact able to try it again, I strongly suggest that you
    bracket. If your base exposure is 200 sec (over 3 minutes!), try in
    addition to 200 sec exposures of 400 sec and 800 sec.
     
    Lawrence Akutagawa, Dec 8, 2008
    #5
  6. Hans Koana

    Hans Koana Guest

    Hello,

    I have got to take the train from Bern to Romont (50km). The calculated
    exposure time as indicated on my Gossen Lunasix F is t=30sec (c.e.),
    f=11, ASA 125, with incident light metering. Following the instructions
    by Kodak, I need t=200sec (a.e.) as the adjusted exposure time. And I
    have got to adjust the development -30%, what means N-1, to avoid
    lighter zones that are too contrasty.

    But you're right: it is better to bracket than loosing an exposure. For
    this reason I will bracket and try an additional exposure time of
    t=60sec (c.e.) / t=550sec (a.e.) (one stop). This is nearly in the
    middle of your two suggestions. The contrast of the scene is not so wide
    (about 4 zones max.), and this is why 1/3 stop of under- or overexposure
    is not so difficult to manage.

    Regards H.K.
     
    Hans Koana, Dec 9, 2008
    #6
  7. For what it is worth, here's another idea -

    I surmise you are shooting 120 6x6. Bracket the first four exposures
    however you want. Place the lens cap back on the camera and shoot the next
    four frames. Take the lens cap off and bracket the last four exposures
    exactly as you did the first. In the darkroom, carefully remove the paper
    backing of the film and cut the film in half so you have four exposures in
    each half. Placing the second half in a light tight place, load the first
    half in the developing tank and develop as you see fit. Examine the
    developed and fixed first half. If you are satisfied, fine. If you are
    not, you then have a benchmark against which you can now develop the second
    half.
     
    Lawrence Akutagawa, Dec 9, 2008
    #7
  8. Don't use Plus-X! The reciprocity behavior of modern Kodak films is
    much, much better, which also means that less development adjustment
    will be required.
     
    Thor Lancelot Simon, Dec 9, 2008
    #8
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