Lense selection for FUJI S2 DIGITAL CAMERA

Discussion in 'Fuji' started by shrestha, Nov 2, 2003.

  1. shrestha

    shrestha Guest

    I just bought FUJI S2 digital camera with 28-100 f3.5-5.6 and 70-300
    f4-5.6 Nikkor lenses. It was package deal so i had to buy those
    lenses. I am in business of selling jewelries in internet. I take
    pictures of different size jewelry pieces. They are as large as 15" x
    6" necklaces or 3" x 3" bracelets down to as small as 1/2" rings or
    pins. What macro lenses are recommended to take pictures of these
    items to get sharpest pictures possible? Thanks for your comments.
    shrestha, Nov 2, 2003
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  2. shrestha

    Mr3 Guest

    Your 28-100 should do the trick.
    Lens choice is important, but for web images, composition, lighting, and
    gamut control should be high on your list of concerns.

    Standard jpeg web images are limited to 216/256 colors at 72 dpi with most
    images sized at 400x600 or less. Your camera/lens is capturing images with
    millions of colors and pixels; most of which will be 'lost' in the final web
    image. Lens quality is not going to be very apparent in the final image.

    Assuming dial-up bandwidth, your jpeg images shouldn't exceed 20-30KB. That
    means heavy compression and marginal clarity. Even at DSL/T1 bandwidth,
    200-300KB jpeg files can still be pretty blurry when magnified.
    Publishing high quality images on the web is always a tradeoff between
    reasonable access times and acceptable quality. Try your existing 28-100
    lens and consider PDF files for higher quality.
    TBL; your lens is not the issue.


    Mr3, Nov 2, 2003
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  3. shrestha

    Tony Guest

    Although many of the shorter focal length zooms have a 'Macro' setting and
    can offer a close focus setting, true macro is actually when an object can
    be photographed at 1:1 size (or at least better than 1:2; that means that
    if an ring is, for example, 20mm in diameter, the image on a 35mm film will
    also be 20mm diameter.

    There are a few ways to achieve this, most commonly would be to either use a
    true Macro lens, such at the Micro Nikkor range (or equivalent lenses from
    other manufacturers such as Sigma, Tokina, Tamron etc.) or to use a non-zoom
    lens of appropriate focal length with extension tubes or bellows, which
    allows the lens to be further away from the film-plane and thus closer

    The use of a true Macro lens, which are all fixed focal length, is
    preferable to the use of tubes or bellows as the lens will be designed for
    this purpose, and thus almost certainly give a better image, in addition all
    of the lenses electronic functions will still be operational.

    The choice of focal length is crucially important. If the lens is too
    short (usually less than 50mm) then you could encounter distortion of the
    image, similar to that encountered with wide-angle lenses, however if the
    lens is too long (greater than 135mm) then the depth of field becomes
    miniscule, so that even when focussing down on a very small object, such as
    a precious stone, could have one side of the object in pin-sharp focus and
    the other side of the stone completely blurred. This problem can be
    alleviated to a certain extent by the correct use of lighting and a slow
    exposure with a small aperture (between f32 and f16), however most lenses
    perform best about midway in the aperture region (for a f2.8 lens it's
    roughly around f8 and f11).

    The most common Macro lenses in the Nikkor range are the 50mm, 60mm, and
    105mm (I have had one of these excellent lenses).

    I would suggest that the 60mm might be a good focal length to start with, as
    it does not excessively distort and has a better depth of field than the
    105mm (which also happens to be about the best focal length for portraiture
    photography). It also means that you don't need to be too far away from
    your object being photographed, such as the necklaces, however the longer
    105mm may be a better lens for individual items such as gemstones, earrings
    and items up to rings.

    The other crucial items of equipment you will need will be a tripod, remote
    shutter release (I don't know what fittings your camera has) and good
    lighting so as to ensure even (possibly diffuse) lighting, as high contrast
    shadows will eliminate detail of the object being photographed.

    I've never found that auto-focus works successfully in Macro, and as your
    object won't be moving and the camera will be on a tripod, manual focussing
    is preferable.

    NB. All of the focal lengths above are based upon the use of 35mm film sized
    image, the size of the cameras image plane will affect the focal length of
    lens required as, for example, 50mm is a lens on a standard lens on 35mm,
    however it's a wide-angle on a medium format 120/220 film camera (6 x 6 cm
    image), and an 80mm lens on 35mm is a short telephoto, whereas it's a
    standard lens on medium format.

    I hope that this helps.


    Tony, Nov 2, 2003
  4. Although you should try using your existing lenses before you go out and
    buy a 105mm Micro Nikkor I suspect that you will find that your present
    lenses will not focus down closely enough to permit clear images that are
    acceptable in size. In any event the ideal lens for shooting jewelry with
    images up to life size is a 105mm Micro Nikkor. The 105 has a working
    distance of approximately one foot which is enough to allow you to back
    off far enough so that your lens won't block any light or throw shadows on
    the subject.

    If you need images that are larger than life size the most flexible
    solution is a Nikon Bellows (a PB5 or better) used in conjunction with the

    Jerry Gitomer, Nov 2, 2003
  5. shrestha

    shrestha Guest

    I suspect that you will find that your present
    You are absolutely right. When I focus with my 28-100mm lense at
    pendant or ring, 1" in size, I can can not clearly see those items
    through my view finder. I can not even tell where those items are
    focussed right. They appear in the middle of view finder with less
    than 1/2 (may be 1/3rd) size of the view finder. I want to see those
    small items as big as possible on my view finder. That is the only
    way I can be ascertain if the pictures of those items will come out
    ok. Which macro lense, 60mm or 105mm, will better suited in this

    All of the responses were so excellent that i printed them for future

    shrestha, Nov 3, 2003
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