Looking for panorama capable tripod

Discussion in 'Digital Cameras' started by NormanHeyen, Nov 17, 2005.

  1. NormanHeyen

    NormanHeyen Guest

    Are there some decent, reasonably priced tripods that can be used for
    shooting panorama's? One that has the pivot under the 'film' plane?

    On a similar note, on my Canon S2-IS, there is a 'stitch mode, but it
    seems to not lock in the exposure settings. So as I pan across the
    scene, the exposure changes. Is there a way to do that? The framing
    hints for the next shot is nice, but seems to have a slight gap.

    Thanks!
    Norman
     
    NormanHeyen, Nov 17, 2005
    #1
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  2. NormanHeyen

    [BnH] Guest

    <-- what's your reasonable ? some ppl say $50 is too much for a tripod , but
    some said $500 is just nice.
    You can try Manfrotto 190 D + 141 RC combo for start.
    Try using Manual setting.
     
    [BnH], Nov 17, 2005
    #2
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  3. NormanHeyen

    Ron Hunter Guest

    Any tripod can have a pano head attached. What you want to do is get a
    good solid tripod, then look for a pano head with the best features.
     
    Ron Hunter, Nov 17, 2005
    #3
  4. That's not where you want the pivot. Ideally you want it under the lens's
    first nodal point, which you'd have to find by experiment. But this is only
    important when the subject matter is fairly close, anyway. For the distance
    shots that most people do panoramas of, exact placement of the pivoting
    point is just not critical. In fact with just a little practice you can get
    good panoramas without using a tripod at all. I've taken indoor panoramas by
    rotating the camera on a counter top between kitchen and dining room, just
    guessing at where the nodal point would probably be, and they turned out
    fine. I'm using the Panorama Maker 3 that comes with some Nikons, have never
    used any other software for this.

    That seems very strange, but I guess there are differences from one make and
    model to another. Nikons all lock the exposure automatically in panorama
    mode, and as far as I know that can't be defeated, no way no how.

    Neil
     
    Neil Harrington, Nov 17, 2005
    #4
  5. NormanHeyen

    NormanHeyen Guest

    Thanks to all for the advice and suggestions, I appreciate it. I'll
    look at some of the heads mentioned and see if these are reasonably
    priced. :) Or I might be able to just use a circular bubble level on
    something that I have already and be happy with that.

    It is entirely probably that I'm not doing something right in 'stitch
    mode. I'll do some more testing if the sun ever comes out again around
    here. It is overcast, so everything will have the same lighting, or
    lack there of.

    My background is a Nikkormat FT2 that I bought new, the Canon was my
    first half serious digital, so I'm a bit overwhelmed with the new
    electronic features. I still try and look for the little needle and
    backwards 'C' to set the exposure... :) But I'm getting better at it!

    Thanks again for the advice and recommendations.

    Norman
     
    NormanHeyen, Nov 18, 2005
    #5
  6. NormanHeyen

    Charlie Ih Guest

    As many have mentioned that most digital P&S cameras have a stitch
    assist mode, with some practice, you can get very good pano with free
    hand. I can now get about 70% of pano pictures coming out pretty good
    (for far away scenery, nearby buildings are more difficult).
    Few people can point out the faults. For some of the panos I cannot find
    the seams even I look very hard for them. I have found out that Canon
    is much better in this respect, both the in-camera setup and the software.
    In this mode, the LCD screen provides a small portion of the previous
    frame with which you align up the next frame with about 20 - 30% overlap.
    It is important to set the horizons level. The software automatically
    merges the frames and corrects perspective distorsions and other small
    misalignments. In this mode the exposures, focus, and speed are also
    locked. I did many tests side-by-side with Nikon and Olympus for the
    same scene and Canon seems always better. The cameras I used are
    Canon S400, S110, S100; Nikon CP-4500, CP-990 and an Olympus (model ?).
    Good luck with your project.
     
    Charlie Ih, Nov 18, 2005
    #6
  7. NormanHeyen

    Ron Hunter Guest

    Consistent lighting is essential. Ever notice most good panos are taken
    with clear skies? A passing cloud can wreck havoc with exposures.
     
    Ron Hunter, Nov 19, 2005
    #7
  8. Two issues, repetitive moving objects, and fluctuation in exposure
    level

    I usually manage very well in avoiding the appearance of repetitive
    objects by shooting the sequence in the opposite direction of any
    major movement. That works fine with traffic movement, people walking
    by, clouds in the sky, etc.

    Having a good panohead on the tripod helps because it allows to shoot
    the sequence in rapid intervals, which can help to avoid lighting
    levels fluctuating during the sequence (which would otherwise show
    when exposure parameters are fixed, as they should). It is often also
    possible to wait for more stable/favorable lighting conditions (while
    a cloud is covering direct sunlight). The ability to rapidly shoot the
    sequence is improved by a good panohead.

    Bart
     
    Bart van der Wolf, Nov 19, 2005
    #8
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