Need advice: Panasonic FZ35 vs Canon SX20

Discussion in 'Canon' started by Paul Ciszek, Nov 30, 2009.

  1. Paul Ciszek

    Ray Fischer Guest

    Go away, asshole troll.
    Ray Fischer, Dec 3, 2009
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  2. Paul Ciszek

    Ray Fischer Guest

    Go away, asshole troll.
    Ray Fischer, Dec 3, 2009
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  3. Paul Ciszek

    Wally Guest

    Your comment is off topic. Please stick to the topic.
    Wally, Dec 3, 2009
  4. Paul Ciszek

    Paul Ciszek Guest

    It worked fine for closeups of flowers and lichen; it sucked at
    Paul Ciszek, Dec 3, 2009
  5. Paul Ciszek

    Bob Larter Guest

    Except that they don't of course.
    Bob Larter, Dec 5, 2009
  6. Paul Ciszek

    Bob Larter Guest

    Not at night, they haven't.
    Ever heard of Tri-X?
    Bob Larter, Dec 5, 2009
  7. Paul Ciszek

    Bob Larter Guest

    He didn't mention stopping down the lens, you cretin.
    Bob Larter, Dec 5, 2009
  8. Paul Ciszek

    Bob Larter Guest

    Got some samples to show us of your (no doubt) excellent work?
    Bob Larter, Dec 5, 2009
  9. Paul Ciszek

    Bob Larter Guest

    Bob Larter, Dec 5, 2009
  10. Oh, sure, and that's why the pros are all using P&S cameras ...
    so they can get ISO 64 or ISO 50. Who buys and uses the high
    end 35mm cameras, the medium format backends and so on? How do
    you attach a studio flash system to a P&S camera.

    Of course, when shooting sports, it's just the trick to anticipate
    the action a few minutes ahead of time and then guess right how
    long your P&S will take THIS time to focus properly. Once you
    have that skill, you can bet confidentally on the outcome of any
    game and have more than enough money to hire pro photographers
    who understand what they are doing: they use DSLRs with really
    high ISO settings and expensive, fast glass.
    Tripod. Doesn't work with grandchildren, creeping moss or any
    kind of movable object, though.
    No, the slime hasn't, it would destroy it's worn out stupid, wrong
    and boneheaded "argument". You must forgive it, it has never
    ever even touched a camera, all it knows comes from LSD trips.

    Wolfgang Weisselberg, Dec 7, 2009
  11. Macro is *not* about "close". Macro is about life size on
    the sensor (or more).

    Case in point: an old film movie camera my father used to have
    could literally(!) focus an ant crawling on the front lens.
    You cannot get "closer" than that. However, the ant wouldn't
    be near it's life size on the film. (And it would be mostly a
    black shadow.)

    With a macro lens like the 100mm macro from Canon I can shoot
    the ant from quite a distance, 149mm from the front of the lens,
    and have it appear at it's full size on the sensor. Because the
    working distance is large, it's much easier to get light on
    the ant --- it's not a shadow any more, even without flash.
    Moss and lichen won't flee, but many insects will if you come
    too close ... again, more distance is a plus at times.

    There's a 1x-5x speciality lens for Canon.

    Then there are the old methods of using good lenses and extension
    tubes (or bellows) and reverse mounted wide angle lenses.
    Tripods are practically mandatory then.
    In which case you probably are happier with a compact camera
    for now, so you'll find out what you really want.

    Wolfgang Weisselberg, Dec 7, 2009
  12. Paul Ciszek

    Bart Bailey Guest

    Use a slave trigger.
    Bart Bailey, Dec 7, 2009
  13. Paul Ciszek

    Ray Fischer Guest

    Now how do you attach a studio flash to a P&S without having the
    camera's flash screw up the lighting?
    Ray Fischer, Dec 7, 2009
  14. Paul Ciszek

    Wally Guest

    How the hell can that be? The image size of the subject will be the
    same whether it is cropped or not.

    Wally, Dec 7, 2009
  15. Paul Ciszek

    Bart Bailey Guest

    Not sure what type of lighting effect you're seeking,
    but if you keep modifying the question,
    maybe eventually it will be sufficiently precise
    that your answer will emerge.
    Bart Bailey, Dec 7, 2009
  16. Paul Ciszek

    J. Clarke Guest

    I've got an FZ-20 and a Coolpix 990 and agree--the old Coolpix is a
    remarkably good camera for macro photography despite the by today's
    standards tiny pixel count. There's even a ringlight for it that still
    occasionally is offered for sale.

    I've not used a Canon SX series so can't say for sure how they compare, but
    its ability to focus to 0 cm (and supposedly it really _can_ shoot a
    fingerprint on the lens) would make it superior to the Panasonic however on
    older models that capability was at the wide end of the range only and I
    presume this carries through to the SX-20--this is limiting in that you
    don't get a lot of working distance. While the Panasonic can't fill the
    frame with an object as small as the Canon, the ability to get as close as 2
    meters at the long end of the zoom range gives a useful capability with a
    working distance that in some cases is more convenient.

    Another big downside on the Panasonic is that it's in the lower of the two
    FZ bridge camera lines--that means no hot shoe and you need an extra piece
    to mount filters--there's no threaded ring on the lens barrel itself and the
    filter has to mount to an extender that screws into a ring on the body and
    moves it out far enough for the lens to move behind it. The lack of a hot
    shoe means that external flash has to be triggered with an optical
    slave--not a huge deal but can be annoying--if the onboard flash is putting
    light where you don't want it you have to block it while still allowing
    enough light leakage to trigger your external flash. Unfortunately the
    higher end of their bridge camera range seems to have been discontinued in
    favor of their micro 4/3 cameras.

    However for macro work, if one is serious about it, the camera is just the
    iceberg tip. One also needs decent and somewhat specialized lighting and
    proper camera supports. For studio use where you can set something up and
    leave it you can put together quite decent setups with pieces from Harbor
    Freight and Home Depot, but for a portable rig things can get expensive
    J. Clarke, Dec 7, 2009
  17. Reduce the power enough. If the camera controls can't do that enough,
    stick a bit of white paper over it. If you know enough about light and
    exposure to be using a studio flash in the first place then it should
    be trivially easy to solve this problem experimentally with the kind
    of stuff lying around in the your studio or kitchen.
    Chris Malcolm, Dec 7, 2009
  18. Nice preflashes does that P&S have.

    And the full frontal flash from the P&S does wonders for bad shots.
    Sure, you can put something over it --- but at some point it
    won't fire the studio flashes, and still disturb the image.

    That's assuming the P&S in question can even be turned to manual
    mode --- many (most?) cannot.

    Wolfgang Weisselberg, Dec 7, 2009
  19. Assuming makes an ass out of "u" and "ing". :)
    Of course the real quality is, if you crop the 3mm ant to fill
    the cropped frame, will the *final image* be any different?

    And here the question comes down to resolution and contrast and
    pixel sizes and lens quality.
    Cropping is a very old technique, it is even used in the analog
    dark room.

    Of course another definition could be "at a working distance of
    15cm, how many pixels is a 3mm ant long on the sensor, and what
    is the image quality from a) the lens and b) the sensor?".
    Obviously that will exclude some good macro lenses with working
    distances of more than 15cm ... but working distance is important,
    is it not?

    Wolfgang Weisselberg, Dec 7, 2009
  20. Paul Ciszek

    Ray Fischer Guest

    If that's even an option.
    Seems like it'd be a lot easier to use a better camera.
    Ray Fischer, Dec 8, 2009
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