Need ISO 100 B&W film with a little character

I have an old medium format camera that shoots 6x9 negatives on 120
roll film. I did a test run using Acros 100 film, and while
everything looked very smooth and sharp, I found the results to be
a bit blah. I believe that film is a T-grain film.

I know about Tri-X, but that's ISO 400. And the problem is that my
camera's fastest shutter speed is 1/400 sec. So I'm afraid with
400 speed film it just isn't going to work well in daylight - too
much light. I have no ND filters for the camera.

Is there an ISO 100 B&W film that isn't T-grain and gives a more
Tri-X-like result, or am I just doomed to smoothness at that speed?

 

One of the characteristics of Tri-X is/was that it had almost no toe. The
H&D curve was pretty much a straight line. And, of course, the sort of
gritty look (with a bit of enlargement).

If you can't find what you are looking for - and if you do your own
processing - try playing around with some of the more energetic, non-fine
grain developers such as DK-50, DK-60a, maybe even pyro ABC. I have no idea
if those are still available but one can always compound one's own; a copy
of Photolab Index would be useful for that.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

 

I wonder if film developer formulae are still contained in the newer
editions of the Chemical Rubber Handbook

 

Peabody wrote,on my timestamp of 14/01/2013 6:30 AM:

Ilford Delta 100.
Use DDX or LC29, it'll be quite nice.
Failing that, it's still possible to get some Acros and that can do the trick.
Note that exactly like Tri-X at 100 is a bit difficult, you may have to try a
few things.
The other thin I suggest is to go to www.apug.org and ask there: there are heaps
of very experienced and very recent users of film there, more than willing to
part with info.

 

I hate to resurrect an old thread, but I'm new here and just spotted
this one so thought it'd be as good a place as any to give in.

Delta 100 is another 'modern' grain film. I'd recommend taking a look
at Ilford FP4+ - traditional grain film at ISO125; I adore the stuff,
it's lovely to shoot with. Got a gorgeous contrasty look to it.

That said, I think you're going to struggle to make it overtly grainy
in medium format.


You could try shooting HP5+ with a meter setting at ISO100; the
datasheet suggests that HP5+ shot at ISO100 can be processed in
Perceptol for 9 mins (@20C) to get usable results.

 

DIVE in, even.

Sigh. Good start...

 

Clank says...

I was the OP, and it's never too late to chime in. Thanks
for doing so.

That sounds like what I'm looking for. I just wonder if my
local lab will be able to develop it properly. Eventually
I'll develop it myself, but not at first.

Actually, it looks like what I really need is PlusX. Right.
Where is the key to my wayback machine? Sherman?

I just don't want it to be as flat as the modern T-grain
films, or at least the Acros 100 I tried (but I'm told TMax
is the same). The pictures are all very fine grained,
sharp, accurate, and, well, just lifeless. Of course it
could be operator error, but I don't remember Tri-X being
that way. But for now I need ISO 100, or close to it.

Yes, but I think if I'm going to do that I could just use
Tri-X.

Well, I'll see if I can find some FP4+. Thanks for the
suggestion.

 

There's a lot of information "out there somewhere" about using different
combinations of emulsion, chemistry, and processing methods, to get
different effects. Try a local photography club, or public library.

The final image also depends on the enlarging method, choice of paper, and
chemistry and processing methods again.

Unless you can trust the laboratory doing the work to have a very
consistent approach to every stage of the work, it's unlikely you'll get
consistent satisfactory results.

Perfectionists using large format may expose and process each "plate"
differently; roll-film users might sacrifice a whole roll (and any photos
already on it) to get exactly the "right" combination of exposure and
processing for a particular frame. Interchangeable "backs" (eg Hasselblad)
make life easier and cheaper for people who make a habit of that sort of
thing.

Determine (by experiment) your own personal ISO rating for each emulsion
and processing combination you use - and for each batch of film.

 

pssst: it's called www.apug.org
and no: I don't own it.

 

They should be able to - it develops well with all the 'standard'
developers, doesn't require any particularly special treatment; if the
lab can do traditional B&W, they can do FP4+. I develop all mine with
Kodak HC110 (mainly because the keeping properties and concentration
make it so damn convenient…)

Yup, I'm not a huge fan of the modern grain films for exactly that
reason. I think FP4+ will hit the mark perfectly - and it's good to
support Ilford, they're a great company (I've had the pleasure of
touring their factory and meeting a few of them) and probably
traditional photography's biggest supporter.

The traditional grain films also have loads more latitude, which I
could claim allows me more creativity when it comes to printing them.
Or could more accurately admit helps cover up for my incompetence as a
photographer…

Fair point . Having given up trying to keep track of Kodak's
product discontinuations I forget that Tri-X is still available; I'm
never letting myself fall in love with a Kodak film again since they
killed E100VS :-(.

 

Clank says...

With any luck it won't be possible to develop it with C-41.
Because if they can use that, they will.

Is there a particularly good (low cost) place to buy FP4+?
For the US, I mean.

 

Try B&H. $11.95 for a 3x36 exp pack.
<
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/884667-REG/Ilford_1987719_FP4_PLUS_135_36_3_Pack.html

 

Savageduck says...

Should have said - I need 120. Well actually 620, 6x9. But
it looks like B&H is the best price on 120 too.

 

Freestyle http://www.freestylephoto.biz/ lists a couple of different ISO 100 films and FP-4+ (ISO 125)in 120. 620 film is more difficult, if you have 620 spools you can reload your 620 spools with 120 film--darkroom or changing bag--Google is your friend). The Foma and Arista emulsions are reputed to be very "old school."