Nikon AF N8008S with 28-85mm lens

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by Lenny, Dec 19, 2003.

  1. Lenny

    Lenny Guest

    My son picked up this outfit used from someone who told him that the
    camera was dropped. The lens shows signs of this and although the
    camera functions fine in manual mode it will not work in auto mode. We
    plan on taking the camera and lens to a camera shop locally who deals
    in Nikon to try another lens to determine if the auto problems are due
    to the lens or the camera. If we determine that either one is the
    cause of the problem does anyone know a reliable reasonable repair
    service for Nikon equipment?
    On another matter,I would like to locate some accessories for him such
    as a cable release, 62mm circular polarizer filter, 80A and or 80B
    filter, neutral density filter, carrying case, and perhaps some other
    lenses that are compatible with this camera. Can someone please tell
    me how I would know which lenses would be compatible with this camera?
    Also I'm told that the cable release is special as well. Where would I
    find the best deals on these items new or used? I tried to do an Ebay
    search but there are so many listings for Nikon I really don't know
    where to look. And i just really can't afford to be ripped off.
    Thanks, Lenny Stein.

    Any and all responses through this forum would be fine, however if you
    would prefer to email please use:
     
    Lenny, Dec 19, 2003
    #1
    1. Advertisements

  2. Lenny

    Matt Clara Guest

    Do you mean the lens simply won't autofocus, or do you mean the whole rig
    does nothing in any of the auto modes such as P, A, S? If it's just
    autofocus, I wouldn't spend money getting it repaired. It's not any good
    even when it's at its best. I know, I've used an 8008s since 94.


    http://tinyurl.com/372tn
    Basically just don't buy any pre-AI lenses.

    Never got one. Just used the self-timer which goes up to 30 seconds and if
    I needed more I'd switch to my old Nikon F.

    Whatever you're looking to buy for it, I'd look at www.bhphoto.com or
    www.adorama.com. For used goods, try www.keh.com

    http://tinyurl.com/2n77p

    I'll try, but my spoofed return address gives me troubles through my ISP.
     
    Matt Clara, Dec 19, 2003
    #2
    1. Advertisements

  3. Lenny

    bmoag Guest

    I have an 8008 that is still serviceable but I hardly ever use it. I would
    not invest in any repairs of the camera you describe. If the camera does not
    work properly I would not pay for the estimate that most repair shops
    charge.The simple truth is that a new N65 or N75 is a better camera with
    technology that has improved considerably since the 8008 was designed, for
    probably not much more than the cost of repairing the 8008. That being said,
    why bother looking for accessories for a broken 8008?
     
    bmoag, Dec 20, 2003
    #3
  4. Lenny

    Matt Clara Guest

    Those cameras are not on par with the 8008s. The _only_ thing inferior on
    the 8008s is the autofocus, and in 99% of the average photographer's work
    autofocus isn't necessary, and in fact is a hinderance.
     
    Matt Clara, Dec 20, 2003
    #4
  5. Lenny

    Matt Clara Guest

    --
    www.mattclara.com
    Allow me to slightly rephrase that--autofocus is not necessary for most
    work, and can be a hinderance to _some_ work. When I shoot weddings, for
    instance, I can't rely on the autofocus to hit the mark I intend. Too often
    my intended subject is slightly out of focus, but the arm (or whatever) of
    the person behind the subject is in perfect focus.
     
    Matt Clara, Dec 20, 2003
    #5
  6. Lenny

    bmoag Guest

    The person who posted the original thread does not appear to be a
    knowledgeable photographer. Rather than invest $200 dollars in repairing an
    8008 that person would be far better off with a newer N75 or N65 that
    actuallly works the way it is intended to work. The 8008 has greater heft
    than the newer cameras but that does not necessarily mean it is any better
    or more solidly built and it is based on a design and technology that is
    almost 20 years old. In all honesty my 8008 never worked properly with
    calculating flash exposures using corresponding Nikon speedlights so I do
    not have a great admiration for the quality of the camera anyway.
     
    bmoag, Dec 20, 2003
    #6
  7. Lenny

    Matt Clara Guest

    And my years shooting weddings with the 8008s and SB-28 disprove that. In
    fact, I like the way my 8008s worked with the SB-28 better than I like the
    way my F100 works with the SB-80. Moreover, my 8008s has taken lots of
    battering, including a couple short drops, and it works fine. The increased
    heft is because it's a solid piece of kit. The N75 has no manual ISO
    settings, the N75 has no spotmeter, and there's more.
     
    Matt Clara, Dec 20, 2003
    #7
  8. Lenny

    AT Guest

    your 8008 might have been misfiring from the beginning.
    mine works perfectly, flash and all.

    my .02
     
    AT, Dec 20, 2003
    #8
  9. Lenny

    Lenny Guest

    I have since taken the camera to a store where we tried a new lens and
    found that it focused ok. Armed with the knowledge that the body was
    working we disassembled the camera side of the lens and reseated the
    contact strip. after reassembling the lens it now seems to work fine.
    It seems that the contacts were simply out of alignment with the body.
    So now I'm interested in persuing two other items for this camera. The
    first is a "cable release". I have learned that the MC-12 is the unit
    for this job however what special features does the MC-12 have? I
    would like to be able to simply hold the shutter open for time
    exposures as I do mechanically on my F2 but do I need whatever bells
    and whistles this MC-12 has to do this? Can someone please explain how
    it works, what it does and if perhaps just placing a short across the
    two pins on the camera will hold the shutter open until the short (as
    provided by say a small toggle switch) is removed? I'm also told that
    depressing the MC-12 button just slightly activates the display just
    as the camera button does. I don't know how important or desirable for
    time exposures this would be but does anyone know how they're doing
    this(electrically)?
    The second item thats missing from this outfit is a flash. The book
    says that only a Nikon Speedflash will work with this cameara. Is this
    true? Now I realise that to do autoflash you would need the camera to
    commmunicate with the flash via the extra two pins on the shoe so for
    that application that flash or a compatible one apparently would have
    to be employed but would it be possible to just use a plain vanilla
    flash if one wanted to having a standard two conductor shoe by placing
    the camera in manual mode? If so what shutter time setting would sync
    with the flash? Thanks very much once again for your responses. Lenny
    Stein.
     
    Lenny, Dec 22, 2003
    #9
  10. Lenny

    Matt Clara Guest

    That's great. Like I said, mine has taken similar drops and works just
    fine.
    Also as I indicated earlier, I don't own one, so I can't comment on its
    functionality. When I bought the camera the salesman told me all I needed
    to do was bridge the two pins to close the shutter. When I broke the
    circuit the shutter would return. Never tried it.
    The 8008s will sync up to 1/250th of a second. 1/60th is a good starting
    point. You really can't beat the Nikon flash system, though. If you could
    find a used SB-24, you'd be in good shape. Same goes for a used SB-26,
    though they often sell for as much as a new SB-80. Alternatively you could
    buy a Metz with a Nikon dedicated module. There are also Sunpaks and
    Vivitars that are dedicated to Nikon (or canon, etc., depending on your
    needs). You could also buy the PC sync connector that rides in the hotshoe
    and use any flash that takes a PC cord.
    Here's the connector at Adorama: http://tinyurl.com/343mw
     
    Matt Clara, Dec 22, 2003
    #10
  11. Lenny

    Matt Clara Guest

    You could also buy the PC sync connector that rides in the hotshoe

    Of course, then you'll need a bracket to hold the flash.
     
    Matt Clara, Dec 22, 2003
    #11
  12. Lenny,

    I have an 8008s that has served me well for years. Takes great pictures. However, if the lens and body were dropped I would not waste the time in servicing it. Take it in to a local photo shop and put the lens on a Nikon body that is comparable, like another 8008s, 6006, N70, N90. If it works, you know the body is bad. If camera works, but lens does not, I would just buy a used Nikon AF or Nikon AF D lens. Don't get a G lens or newer nikon AF lens unless you plan to buy a Nikon DSLR down the road.

    I have seen prices for used 8008s in mint to EX condition go from $50 - $150. At that price it would cost you $50 for someone to tell you what's is wrong with it. Not worth fixing when you can get a used replacement for almost the same price. (Do not buy the 8008. I think it had issues in it's design that 8008s fixed.)
    I am giving my 8008s to a friend for present and bought a used lens in "like new" condition from www.keh.com. They have been in business for years and my father used to deal a lot with them and had no hassles with them. For a camera that old, the newer lenses would not be worth the money. As it's technology isn't compatiable.
    If you find you want another film camera body consider a used nikon F4s. Back in the day it was their Cadillac camera. However a lot of pros shot those, so be carefull. I have seen those go for $300-$400. It's also a good backwards compatable camera too. The N90 is has been highly rated too. I think there was an F5 and F6 people have liked, and I here good things about F100 too.

    The 8008/8008s used the mc3 remote release. The only camera back then that used a conventional cable realease was the 6006. The 6006 had a pop-up flash, but used lithium battereis. I always thought this was a limitation to the 8008s' AA batts, as lithiums cost more and were harder to find. Also lacked some features. The N4004 was a dog and pice of crap if you ask me.

    Look around on e-bay and used sections of camera stores online. You might find one (MC3 release) It may require an adapter cord, so make sure you know what your're buying. Actually though, how I got around this limitation was I used camera's shutter, which you can set the time for up to 30 seconds. For exposures longer than 30 seconds, use the camera's multiple exposure feature. YOu can do up to 4 multiple exposures on one frame I think. With a sturdy tripod I had good luck with this. Then before taking the picture set the camera's remote timer to 3 seconds. When the shutter goes you won't be touching camera at all. As long as your tripod is beefy and steady, you should be fine.

    Lenses you want later made AF lenses made before the D series, or any D type AF lens. the older used Nikon Af lens are very reasonable. If it has an aperature ring, you should be safe. D lenses will also work well on most of their DSLR's. I work in still and video proffesionally, and there is one universal thing I can tell you, a great lens can make a mediocre camera take great pictures, but a bad lens will make the best camera look bad. So depending on what level of quality you desire, a lens will always be better.

    Older Manual focus AIS lenses will work on the 8008s, but you cannot meter with them as well. The F4 I think will meter the the manual AIS lenses in Center weighted mode, but I would double check that online if you're serious.

    All their newer digital cameras have the smaller than 35mm FX sensor so the older lenses won't work the same or have the same technology in them. Lenses for these cameras. As far as off brand goes, the Tokona AT-X Pro lenses are great. Not sure they still make them. I paid $550 for my 28-70 F2.6-2.8 lens many years ago, but have seen it go used in the $300's-350's online. Be wary of the consumer grade Tokina. I hear they are crap. I've had good luck with Tamron lenses. Sigma's another common brand but the quality has been ok. Pictures have always looked kind of flat and drab. Stay awya from Promaster and other off brands many camera shops sell. In my view and from what I have read, They are cheaply made and allow for shops to make a higher profit margin from them. If it says Nikkor though you can't usually go wrong, even on low end lenses. LEnses are graded on the quality of the glass and their coatings, and how fast the are... or how the widest aperature is. A lens that says 35-70 F3.5-4.5 means that at 35mm your aperature is f3.5. Just by zooming to 70mm you lose a stop of light... it goes to 4.5, even though the apearture ring may still say 3.5. Many cheaper lenses will say 3.5 to 5.6. That would mean losing almost two full stops of light. If you're outdoors or taking flash pictures indoors, it's probably going to work fine and you won't miss it. But if you need to take existing low light pictures, or pictures in the school's gym during a basketball game, it's not going to work.

    As far additiional lenses go, my system has always been a wide angle zoom like a 28-70 or 35-80 and a telephoto zoom 80-200. Maybe fot a fixed super wide 20mm or 24mm into the mix, but with a good flash you'd be set. I f you can find or afford 2.8 constant lenses even better. They make wide angle to ultra telephoto lenses, but I have laays been wary of them. I prefer 2 touch zoom lenses over one touch. One touch lenses you push nd pull for zooming and rotate for focus. Two touch have separate rings for focus and zoom. The two touch lenses offer by far more control.

    Besides a pro will always move before zooming. It's trick I used to help me learn how to take pictures. Set the lenses to it's widest or farthest. then move left/right or closer/further to adjust the shot. It makes you see differently and will make you better.

    As far as accessories go, try Adorama or bhphotovideo.com. For filters, also look into the Cokin system. Uses a holder that puts square filters in front of your lens. You buy adapting rings to fit the holder onto your lens. So as you change lenses, you just buy the adapter for that lens. As far a rotating polariser goes, a good screw on type for your primary lens is advisable. I'm partial to Tiffen.

    Camera cases... look at Domke. Had mine for 15 plus years and the strap is just starting to wear out, even though the bag still works fine. Tamrac, Lowepro, and Kata are also great to name a few. Hard cases... Pelican cases will ward off any Gorilla (seriously). If you want to be low key and want to protect gear from hot environment, take an old igloo cooler, and make foam inserts to put inside it. Will protect camera and film from a hot car and most thieves will think you just have some beverages inside of it. Bags are a personal item. Everyone has their own system. As long as it makes gear easy to carry and is well padded.

    IF you have any questions here is my e-mail: .

    YOU WROTE:

     
    chuckwagon524, Dec 8, 2008
    #12
  13. Like I said in another post, use 8008s self timer and multiple exposure feature along with timed release to get around the remote cord limitation. The remote cord for this more or less just switch with a custom molded plug at one end.

    I think I have used Vivitar flash on this, but won't get TTL out of it. I would go with a SB24 through SB26 flashes. You should see something on e-bay.
     
    chuckwagon524, Dec 8, 2008
    #13
    1. Advertisements

Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.