nikon d40

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by Geoff Newbould, May 16, 2008.

  1. Is there any discernable difference in using fine as opposed to normal image
    quality or even basic as one well known reviewer suggests.Up to 7x5 size
    prints.
    Another basic question, what advantage is there in using the shutter &
    aperture modes when these are both cotrollable in the program mode.

    Geoff.
     
    Geoff Newbould, May 16, 2008
    #1
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  2. Geoff Newbould

    me Guest

    I think it depends upon the subject content and your specific requirements.
    If you are going to edit at all I'd shoot fine. but then I mainly shoot raw
    with my D70/200/300 these days.
    As I really never used it on my D70 (or even CP-990/5700 for that matter)
    and the 200/300 don't have it I'm working from shakey memory. In program
    mode I believe the adjustment is made from the exposure chosen by the
    "program." If you go to aperture, shutter or manual mode those settings are
    absolute.
     
    me, May 16, 2008
    #2
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  3. You can change the program by twirling the dial. If you change one
    factor the other changes in the opposite direction. You can read the
    settings in the view finder. For that reason I never use Aperture or
    Shutter priority.
     
    Robert Peirce, May 16, 2008
    #3
  4. Geoff Newbould

    Frank Arthur Guest

    Use fine if you discover that this is a really great image and would
    like to enlarge it to a larger size.
    Shutter control is to stop action using a fast speed or very slow
    speed to create motion.
    Aperture control allows you to have a greater depth of field by using
    a small aperture or deliberately making distant images out of focus by
    using a large aperture and focusing closer.
    Small aperture is the higher number like f11,f16 or f22 if you have
    it.
     
    Frank Arthur, May 16, 2008
    #4
  5. Previously on rec.photo.digital.slr-systems, Geoff Newbould said:
    The "finer" the quality, the better the printed image will be. Prints
    have a finer resolution than monitors, so bear that in mind. "fine"
    quality will also stand up to editing better.

    Remember, you can always "dumb it down" later if you want or need to
    conserve space, but you can never add in fine detail that was never
    captured to begin with.
    Manual control, mainly. In "program mode", the camera makes all the
    decisions for you. This may be fine for snapshots, but if you're going
    for specific effects you will want to take at least some manual
    control. Control the aperture to control depth of field and let the
    camera handle the shutter speed. Or control the shutter speed to
    control motion blur (yours or the subjects) and let the camera handle
    the aperture.

    --
    Jeffrey Kaplan www.gordol.org
    The from userid is killfiled Send personal mail to gordol

    "Welcome to Babylon 5, the last, best hope for a quick buck." (Cmdr.
    Ivanova, B5 "There All The Honor Lies")
     
    Jeffrey Kaplan, May 16, 2008
    #5
  6. Geoff Newbould

    Paul Furman Guest

    It should be fine for 5x7 though it's possible you could see a bit of
    posterizing in softly graduated skies & such. Fine/basic refers to jpeg
    compression: it breaks the image into squares & averages the colors in
    each square to make smaller files. Try saving a copy of an image with
    graded sky (dark to light) at a very low jpeg quality setting in any
    program and you will see what this looks like. Even basic is pretty good
    though, you won't notice unless you edit it lightening dark areas will
    then show posterizing of those squares.
    Program starts with an automated guess, with A & S you make the first
    guess. So no real difference. I simply find P mode confusing because
    it's hard to be sure what the camera will do next. For example, I just
    tried P mode & set the aperture wide open to f/2.8 then moved around to
    different parts of the room and after a while, it changed the aperture
    back to f/5.6. If you rotate the dial one way or the other, it uses a
    'somewhat' faster or slower shutter speed but if the lighting changes,
    you can't really predict where it will land. While adjusting this way,
    an asterisk shows next to the 'P' on my D200, and you can set it back to
    the default guess by turning the dial back but after a while it's easy
    to forget which direction and there is no indication.

    Likewise, manual mode is useful where you want even more control, A or S
    keep changing (one of) the numbers against your will when lighting
    changes a bit and that can be frustrating but at least *both* numbers
    aren't slip sliding around in an unpredictable way.

    Rather than full manual, you can use exposure compensation, which is
    usually what I do, but sometimes that gets frustrating and it takes
    several failed shots before I break down & switch to manual. Ideally,
    I'd be paying enough attention to everything to simply use manual mode
    when appropriate but there is a lot to think about so my default is A
    mode. It relieves some pressure & lets me concentrate on the
    composition, focus, etc. If P mode frees you up to concentrate on
    improving the other parts of the picture taking process, that's useful.
    I'm just accustomed to starting with an aperture I have in mind so that
    little bit doesn't slow me down much.


    --
    Paul Furman
    www.edgehill.net
    www.baynatives.com

    all google groups messages filtered due to spam
     
    Paul Furman, May 17, 2008
    #6
  7. The "quality" setting refers to the degree of jpg compression, not to
    the resolutuion. To my eye, using a 19" monitor, there's not much
    visible difference between "normal" quality and "fine" quality.
    There's a big difference in file size, though.
    I've found that the program mode in my D40 is biased in favor of using
    larger lens openings and faster shutter speeds. If you use a fast
    manual-focus lens (such as the 45mm f/2.8P), this results in a very
    shallow depth of field, and makes focusing extremely critical. That's
    why I get better results using aperture-priority mode.
     
    Alexander Arnakis, May 17, 2008
    #7
  8. Many thanks for the replies to my queries. I am fully aware of photographic
    theory but wanted to canvass other people's opinions. It seems you pays
    your money & takes your choice!

    Cheers,
    Geoff.
     
    Geoff Newbould, May 17, 2008
    #8
  9. Previously on rec.photo.digital.slr-systems, Alexander Arnakis said:
    I know that. How do you think JPG compresses? It loses data. The
    more you compress it (and the more often you recompress it via editing)
    the more picture data you lose. Using a higher quality source image
    (ie, "Fine" for less compression) the less you lose, and the better the
    image will stand up to later manipulation.
    The camera produces a 300dpi image. Your monitor can only display
    72dpi. If you want to see the difference, print the two images.

    IMO, storage space is so cheap, the file size is a poor excuse to not
    go with the highest quality image you can make.

    I've got digicam pictures going back to 1998, taken with a 1.3MP Sony
    D770. At that time, I thought they were fantastic pictures in terms of
    the image quality. I have never edited them, and now they look bad
    even on my monitor, never mind printed out. At that time, I was
    concerned about storage space and used a higher compression setting,
    and now I'm paying for it.

    I see the same thing with pictures taken with later cameras of higher
    pixel count too.
    So's mine. I think the designers did that in order to minimize camera
    shake/subject movement from blurring the image.
    Same here. Aperture Priority is my personal "default". I switch to
    Shutter Priority if motion control is my main concern. btw, I have the
    D40x.

    --
    Jeffrey Kaplan www.gordol.org
    The from userid is killfiled Send personal mail to gordol

    Tips for the Innocent Bystander: 4. If you're riding on public
    transport and the Magnificent Seven board your train or bus, get out
    immediately and wait for the next one. Especially if they're in their
    street clothes.
     
    Jeffrey Kaplan, May 18, 2008
    #9
  10. No, it doesn't. The very notion of dots per inch is only meaningful on
    an output device (paper, monitor, ...) that has an actually physical
    dimension.
    At most you could say the camera sensor has a resolution of e.g. 4100
    pixel per inch, but that number is not very meaningful.
    That depends very much on the physical dimensions of the monitor and the
    chosen screen resolution. There are many monitors that have a much
    higher and much lower density.
    Agree!

    jue
     
    Jürgen Exner, May 18, 2008
    #10
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