Nikon D60 - firmware version changes?

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by David J Taylor, Oct 23, 2008.

  1. A recently purchased Nikon D60 shows:

    Firmware A: 1.00
    Firmware B: 1.01

    whereas one bought in August shows:

    Firmware A: 1.00
    Firmware B: 1.00

    I can't find any firmware updates for the D60 on the Nikon UK site, and I
    thought that the two firmwares were supposed to have the same version
    number. Could any other recent purchaser confirm their firmware version

    Menu => Setup Menu => Firmware version

    David J Taylor, Oct 23, 2008
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  2. Thanks for that, BobF. Comforting to know that someone has the same
    version, and most likely mine isn't the result of someone's failed
    upgrade! It had 30 shutter activations at new (from the JPEG EXIF

    I wonder what changed in firmware B?

    David J Taylor, Oct 24, 2008
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  3. David J Taylor

    FastFolkert Guest

    "David J Taylor"

    Firmware A: 1.00
    Firmware B: 1.01

    Bought in Holland, Oct. 15 (with 18-105 VR)

    YMMV, Folkert
    FastFolkert, Oct 24, 2008
  4. FastFolkert wrote:
    Thanks, Folkert. Good to know there are more mixed-firmware version
    cameras out there. Mine was also bought recently.

    David J Taylor, Oct 24, 2008
  5. David J Taylor

    FastFolkert Guest

    You're welcome ;-)
    Just curious; have you changed your Image Optimization settings? I found the
    default D60 JPG pics a little soft; compared to my Canon Powershot A610.
    I have just set sharpening to +1, and will try to shoot some outdoor pics
    this weekend to compare.

    YMMV, Folkert
    FastFolkert, Oct 24, 2008
  6. Folkert,

    I left the image parameters at the default value on my Nikon D40, but
    actually I find the images sometimes a little /too/ colourful, i.e. too
    saturated and has perhaps a little /too/ much contrast. I am thinking of
    making the "soft" setting the default for my D60, although that doesn't
    appear to increase the dynamic range, just make some of the darker levels
    in the JPEG a little lighter. Deep-shadow detail isn't increased (my
    rough tests agree with the DP Review findings).

    What I would /like/ to use is the Active D-Lighting:

    for the extended dynamic range, but I'm not sure I can tolerate the

    I think you will find you come to appreciate the shots from the D60
    without the extra sharpening. Sometimes I think that the images from
    compact cameras are set to "stun", to be immediately attractive, whereas
    those from DSLRs can be more subtle. I certainly found no need to
    increase the sharpening. You will find that you need to be much more
    careful with focus, though, as there is much less depth-of-field compared
    to the compact camera.

    By the way, my favourite gripe is the focus position selector. It's all
    too easy, when reviewing images, to press the selector left or right just
    /after/ an image has timed out, and then you will most likely alter the
    focus point from the central position to either the left or right
    position. Of course, this shows as the red indicator in the viewfinder
    when you half-press the shutter release, but do be aware just which focus
    region is selected.

    David J Taylor, Oct 25, 2008
  7. I got a D90 in my hands at a camera store a couple days ago and my first
    reaction to looking through the viewfinder was, "Focus points everywhere!"

    Far fewer than the full-framers (I suppose, if they all show) but compared
    to the D40/40X/60's three, it looked like quite an indicator party. :)
    Blinky the Shark, Oct 25, 2008
  8. Blinky the Shark wrote:
    Very nice, of course, but how do you choose between the points? Or do you
    simply let the camera choose?

    Whilst I've generally found the D40 focus very quick and satisfactory
    (apart from me accidentally moving the focus point), things like
    photographing racing cars from behind a wire mesh prove problematical, as
    the camera if left to itself chooses to focus on the nearer wire mesh
    rather than the more distant car. It would be equally incorrect for the
    camera to focus on the most distant object in this case as well. So far,
    preset focus is the best solution I have been able to find....

    David J Taylor, Oct 25, 2008
  9. Not a D60 comment, just a general DSLR sharpening comment. I find
    sharpening to be much too size-dependent and image dependent to use a
    standard setting. For example, I rarely want to sharpen well-focussed
    shot in good light with plenty of contrast, because even a little
    introduces perceptible haloes without adding perceptible
    detail. Whereas last week I shot a wide perspective shot of an
    intricate church interior which I had to reduce contrast a lot on to
    get in all the detail across the high dynamic range bewteen light and
    shadow. I then found to my surprise that the best sharpening, which
    most unusually brought up no visible sharpening artefacts at all, was
    close to the maximum my RAW translator (Sony's IDC) permits. That
    simply brought up more textural detail in the rough stonework.

    It's also usually the case that shots taken at the widest and longest
    extremes of my zooms are too soft to take any sharpening, and I
    usually downsize them by a third, and sometimes a half if I also used
    widest aperture, before applying whatever sharpening is appropriate.
    In fact I find whether sharpening makes an obvious change to the image
    when detail is viewed at 200% (pixel peeping) to be a good test of
    whether the image has good detail resolution, and so a test of focus
    accuracy, lens quality, etc..
    Chris Malcolm, Oct 25, 2008
  10. Chris Malcolm wrote:
    Ideally, Chris, I would like to see a flat MTF all the way from lens,
    camera and processing, only adding sharpening to correct the MTF of the
    display device. The camera should produce a dark-grey to light-grey
    transition in the minimum number of pixels and with no overshoots
    (ringing, halos). I.e. I would ideally want /no/ sharpening.

    Of course, I know this can never happen as there are anti-alias filters
    there, and some inverse MTF for that would be needed, etc. etc. That your
    sensor samples at a better resolution than your lenses wide open is, to
    me, the right way round. It's when the lens is pushing the sensor
    resolution (i.e. when the anti-alias filter is really needed because there
    are the higher spatial frequency components to remove) that the "visibly"
    sharpest results will be obtained, but with the greatest risk of aliasing

    Oh, and there's the artistic element you mentioned as well.... Not
    simple, is it?

    David J Taylor, Oct 25, 2008
  11. First of all, I like the idea of having more points for stuff like flying
    birds or sports when you're doing AF in the mode where it tries to track
    the object and lock on even if it's not centered. I mention this to show
    that I'm not *just* an oooh-shiny-toys kind of guy. :) That said, I
    won't know how to manipulate the points for non-continuous servo AF,
    asssuming they can somehow be selected like with my D40's three points,
    until I get my hands on the manual next week. I wondered that myself;
    with the entry-level Nikons it's easy with only three points.
    Were you the poster who mentioned changing the point with his nose?
    As long as your subject cooperates and doesn't come out of that turn
    higher than you expected. ;)

    Ever tried trap focus?
    Blinky the Shark, Oct 25, 2008
  12. David J Taylor

    ASAAR Guest

    The D300 (and presumably the D3 and D700) allow you to selectively
    lock the 4-way multi-selector (quickly, via a switch, rather than as
    a menu option) so it won't allow you to change the selected focus
    point while still allowing the multi-selector to operate normally
    for other functions. Unfortunately this feature isn't available in
    the Dx0 DSLRs, even the new D90.
    ASAAR, Oct 26, 2008
  13. Thanks, ASAAR. Oh, well, I will have to wait until I have saved a few
    more pennies, and have built up more carrying strength!

    David J Taylor, Oct 26, 2008
  14. I'll be interested to hear how you get on. Would I be right in thinking
    that for "track and lock" the subject must be a very obvious one, or that
    "nearest focus" is used? Perhaps someone who has used such a system can
    No, but being left eye dominant I can see hwo that might happen!
    Never heard of it.

    David J Taylor, Oct 26, 2008
    Blinky the Shark, Oct 26, 2008
  16. Thanks, Blinky. We have the same settings on the D60 so it should be
    possible there as well.

    David J Taylor, Oct 26, 2008
  17. In fact, that's where I tried it. I couldn't get it to work.
    Blinky the Shark, Oct 27, 2008
  18. Something lost in translation, perhaps?

    David J Taylor, Oct 27, 2008
  19. David J Taylor

    ASAAR Guest

    Were you able to successfully assign your D90's AE-L/AF-L button
    so that this button (and not the shutter button) initiates focusing?
    The instructions on the website are for the D80 and have to be
    adjusted for different bodies. For the D50, this is *not* in
    "pencil menu - 15". The assignment is made in pencil menu - 14.
    For the D90, pencil menu - f4 (Assign AE-L/AF-L button) needs to
    have AF-ON selected and then trap focusing should work unless some
    other setting is causing a conflict.
    ASAAR, Oct 27, 2008
  20. David J Taylor

    Paul Furman Guest

    That is a nice way to go, I made that change on my D700. The other thing
    needed to make this work was the default setting of "don't take a pic
    unless it's in focus" which is infuriating for much of my shooting.

    Paul Furman

    all google groups messages filtered due to spam
    Paul Furman, Oct 27, 2008
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