Nikon Speedlight SB600

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by Bruce, Sep 16, 2007.

  1. Bruce

    Bruce Guest

    Hi

    I've started using the SB600 and I'm not clear about the flash sync settings
    that Nikon mention in the D80 & Sb600 instructions. What is the standard
    shutter sync speed on the D80 1/60th ? Then they go on about slow sync & FP
    sync. Guessing I use slow sync below 1/30th and have FP set on the camera
    which I assume will cover speeds over 1/125.

    Is this correct.

    Thanks Bruce
     
    Bruce, Sep 16, 2007
    #1
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  2. Bruce

    Paul Furman Guest

    Above 1/200 FP high speed synch mode takes you to 1/4000
    Right, the numbers are better though.
     
    Paul Furman, Sep 16, 2007
    #2
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  3. Bruce

    Bruce Guest

    Thanks Paul

    When do you need to use slow sync?


    Bruce
     
    Bruce, Sep 16, 2007
    #3
  4. When you want to use slow shutter speeds, as for using available light with the
    flash - especially in low light levels. In this situation, you can als make good use
    of the rear curtain synch, and also the ability to apportion the relative amount of
    flash and available light exposures in the photo.
    [BTW, please bottom or "interleave" your posts so that a logical posting order
    can be maintained without having to edit the thread entries, as I did here...]
     
    David Ruether, Sep 16, 2007
    #4
  5. Bruce

    Bruce Guest

    One photo I want to take is of a large country church interior.Last time I
    tried the shadow area to left & right of the aisle was a bit underexposed
    but the stained glass windows were overexposed. So on my next visit I
    propose to (using a tripod) take a couple of shots exposed for the
    windows,then the main aisle using my one SB600 fired to left then right
    (exposure was around 30 seconds). Then in Elements 4 superimpose the
    windows. Is this practicle?

    Bruce
     
    Bruce, Sep 16, 2007
    #5
  6. I don't know what the out-of-coverage-angle illumination
    roll-off of the SB-600 is like (it was very gradual with the
    SB-24, making "shading" of the flash light easy with it - but
    early Vivitars had such abrupt illumination roll-off that
    attempts at shading with the flash by tilting/turning the
    head a bit were generally disastrous. If the SB-600 has
    a nice edge shading-off of the light, it may be possible,
    with experimentation, to have the flash somewhat stronger
    on the sides without problems in the center, and also to
    properly match the flash with the ambient light. If you still
    wind up with overexposed windows, you should be able
    to bring in the properly exposed ones from another image
    using a good photo editor (guess how photographers of
    large groups get all the people in one photo with their
    eyes open and with good expressions these days...;-).
     
    David Ruether, Sep 16, 2007
    #6
  7. Well, if you use a tripod anyway, you can use HDR
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_dynamic_range_imaging
    basically using shots of the window, properly exposed, and
    shots of the rest, properly exposed[1], blended into one image,
    yet retaining details in both.

    Alternatively, you can dress in dark clothes and move the
    flash closer to the dark parts of the image, firing it there
    (pointed away from the camera, and _not_ making yourself
    visible as an outline). As long as you don't stay long at
    any place or are backlit by flash, you will not be seen in
    the resulting image. (This also works with powerful enough
    torch lights.)

    -Wolfgang

    [1] i.e. exposed to the right, but absolutely _not_ clipped,
    since you are going to work on them anyway.
     
    Wolfgang Weisselberg, Sep 17, 2007
    #7
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