Oly c-725 superzoom constant blurring and other probs

Discussion in 'Digital Cameras' started by Paul Heslop, Jul 5, 2005.

  1. Paul Heslop

    Paul Heslop Guest

    For my sins I recently purchased this cam in a sale BEFORE I read some
    user's reports that it had a few flaws. It can take some beautiful
    pics but too many have things wrong. I wanted the convenience of a
    point and shoot but with some setting I could start to use myself,
    having previously owned and been happy with a smaller but fully auto
    c-220. I was also attracted by that 8X zoom!

    So, I heard about the awful chromatic aberration, but wasn't prepared
    for just how bad it can be sometimes. But it's those blurry shots. any
    movement at all is likely to cause blurring and as I have quite bad
    shakes the movement can often be me. Oh yeah, the flash is too damned
    powerful too, which can be a real pain.

    Anyway, what I have, basically, is a camera which doesn't like auto
    settings, often causing over-exposure aswell as the blurring, so I am
    trying hard to get the hang of using the manual settings. Sometimes i
    get it spot on, but often I just don't have the time to experiment
    and/or am just too tired and muddle headed.

    What I would really like, if anyone can be so kind, are some pointers
    of reasonable settings for certain conditions. I've tried books but
    the few I have tried seem to assume some knowledge, or they point to
    settings this camera just doesn't want to do. BTW, the focus is full
    auto! :O(
    Cam has 1/2.5" CCD

    Lens is 6.4mm to 51.22mm f2.8 to 3.4

    ISO 100 200 & 400 (2 and 4 hundred VERY noisy)

    Has esp or spot meter but the spot seems to be linked to the focus
    lock... There is an AE lock, plus exposure compensation +/-2.0 in 1/3

    aperture W f2.8 to f7.1
    T f3.4 to f7.1

    shutter speed 1/2 to 1/1000 sex
    M mode 8 to 1000 or when night flash is used 2 to 1/1000
    so, if someone could help with useful settings (I know they might not
    be precise, I would just like a guide) for

    Indoor family pics (kids playing etc)

    outdoor family pics (sunny and gloomy, I live in England!)

    outdoor lansdscape/buildings etc (has a lot of trouble focusing on
    clouds, specially in low light)

    and lastly low light or even night time photography. (Once again it
    really doesn't seem to like this, focusing is hard)

    Apart from the bad shakes I recently bought a monopod only to find
    that my body kind of jerks, or even judders. It might only be a small
    movement but obviously isn't good if I can see it happening on the
    monopod. I have a tripod but obviously that's not much good in
    situations like kids at play, though it will come in useful for set
    pieces or night shots.

    As you can see, I need a lot of help and if I could afford it I'd love
    to dump the thing in the bin and buy something more friendly, but I
    can't, so any small pointers people can give, I'd be most grateful...

    thanks so much.
    Paul Heslop, Jul 5, 2005
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  2. Paul Heslop

    ASAAR Guest

    Normally the cameras with image stabilization would be preferred
    when handholding is combined with long focal lengths. But they can
    only compensate so much and may not be able to cope with greater
    than usual shakes and jitters. As for the flash, your camera may be
    able to reduce its output (also helping to prolong battery life).
    If the C-725 is one that comes with only a Basic printed manual, you
    might have to thoroughly check the menu to see if this is an option,
    or check the CD that should have come with the camera for a PDF
    version of the full manual.

    It would help if you explained why you're having problems with
    this type of picture. Focusing problems? Shutter lag? The 'too
    powerful flash' should be helpful here as it would allow smaller
    apertures, increasing depth of field.

    Same. What problems do you have here?

    Does your manual not provide focusing guidelines or tips? I would
    expect clouds to be very difficult for many cameras to focus on.
    Some may do a better job than others, but here's part of what my
    Fuji manual has to say about focusing:
    Many cameras focus poorly in low light. Does your camera have a
    focusing assist lamp, and if so, has it been disabled? One camera
    (discussed in part of another thread) that probably does
    exceptionally well in very low light is Sony's F828. I'd guess that
    most DSLR would also do much better in low light than your C-725.
    You get what you pay for, and for the high cost of these cameras you
    get many advantages, such as fast, precise manual focusing. Many
    small, cheap P&S cameras don't have focusing problems because they
    are very limited. Some have fixed focus lenses and rely on their
    lens's very small aperture to keep everything in relatively sharp
    focus. But they won't be able to focus on close subjects, and as
    they're rarely used to make larger than snapshot sized prints, their
    limitations won't be too obvious. Some Olympus cameras can save
    custom settings and allow them to be quickly recalled, such as
    shutter speed, aperture, focus point, ISO, white balance, etc., and
    if yours can do this, you could create a custom setting that
    duplicates those of a cheap, easy to use camera. But the results
    will have the same drawbacks too, although the images might be a
    little better due to your camera's better lens.
    ASAAR, Jul 6, 2005
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  3. Paul Heslop

    Paul Heslop Guest

    It has +2 -2 ev. I do try it but often come out with images way too
    dark, though they look fine onboard the camera
    Blur and softness mainly. Any movement at all seems to catch the cam
    out on indoors shots. I have some great shots from almost static
    people, but even then it's 75/25 on getting a good shot, specially on
    Not really problems except blurring when there's movement. What I'm
    looking for is manual settings which will help me reduce the chance of
    things (my grandkids running around) from blurring. I've tried stuff
    like the sports setting and to be frank it is nowhere near as good as
    my older point and shoot, but I did recently discover that one has an
    ISO as low as 80, which I guess would help?
    yeah, point and shoot :O) It assumes knowledge, so it just says, use
    this to adjust that. This happens all the time

    I would
    Yeah, it looks like this one is just going to be out of this camera's
    capabilities. Again, my older 2mp has no problem with clouds, even
    though it is a full auto camera. I have slight trouble once in a while
    but mainly it does the job, where this one seems to only even try with
    very bright day clouds
    I don't think so, but I went out last night for a couple of minutes
    and, using tripod managed to get some pretty good shots, although
    there's still a fair bit of noise even on ISO 100. I used areas where
    light was falling as focus points, so it should be able to handle the
    conditions I wish to use it for.
    Thanks, that's a good idea... all except the ISO, which is not as low
    as the point and shoot. Actually in price the two would have been
    about the same when they came out. On introduction I think they were
    both mid to late £200. The 220 can now be bought almost for throwaway
    prices, somewhere around £50!
    Paul Heslop, Jul 6, 2005
  4. Paul Heslop

    Paul Heslop Guest

    This needs a strong contrast but even then it is arbitrary, you get a
    perfect shot, then one with aberration, and it can be huuuge. The
    worst, sadly already scrapped, was a shot of a crane which is a kind
    of salmon pink, against a bright sky. One shot, dark and moody, next
    bright, almost overexposed and with the big light pink band to one
    This is my problem. i know about the ISO so set that to 100, but the
    other things are almost guesswork.
    We live in quite a poky little house and it's quite gloomy in the
    living room... but the 200 used to give much better shots than this
    thing with no tweaking at all. That having been said when this one is
    on the ball it is REALLY impressive.
    I'm not sure I can do that. On my old cam you could do things like set
    different flash settings all the time, on this one you have to be in
    P/A/S/M or MY mode to adjust anything, or that's the way it seems. I
    think you can do redeye and fill-in flash on portrait mode though
    Paul Heslop, Jul 6, 2005
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