Olym;pus FL-50 Battery Door

Discussion in 'Photography' started by Flavius, Mar 27, 2005.

  1. Flavius

    Flavius Guest

    Does anyone here know the proper procedure to remove, without breaking,
    the battery door on an Olympus FL-50 flash? Any help is greatly
    appreciated, thanks!


    JDR
     
    Flavius, Mar 27, 2005
    #1
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  2. Larry CdeBaca, Mar 27, 2005
    #2
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  3. Flavius

    Flavius Guest

    Sorry you did not understand the question. Please allow me to clarify it.
    The object is NOT to *OPEN* the battery door, it is to *** REMOVE *** the
    battery door. Without breaking it!
    The owners manual says nothing about how to remove the door. A service or
    repair manual does not appear to be available on the manufacturers website.
    REMOVAL is necessary for the installation of a Quantum MKZ3 battery
    replacement module and cord. This will take the place of the piss-ant AAs
    and allow me to run the flash on my 4.5 amp hour Jacobs Pack. (1500+ flashes
    per charge, with MANY recharge cycles available) (Sealed Lead Acid battery).



    JDR
     
    Flavius, Mar 28, 2005
    #3
  4. This is as good as I can do for you.
    http://www.qtm.com/home/manuals/P592.pdf
    Looks like Canon and Nikon users are in luck (you aren't -- should have
    ponied up bux for a real Oluympus flash) --
    5. ***Some flashes*** (such as SB800) allow removal of the battery cover --
    refer to its instruction manual.
    6. For other flashes the battery door can be held closed using the hook and
    loop strips provided. <<<<<<<<
    Place one adhesive backed strip on each side of the battery door. Secure the
    door using one 4" (10cm) long strip.

    You're welcome.
     
    Larry CdeBaca, Mar 28, 2005
    #4
  5. Flavius

    Flavius Guest

    Thanks for the reply!

    <<<< snip
    In fact, it IS a REAL Olympus flash. In fact, their top-of-line, and
    "ponied" to the tune of $347.00. It works GREAT! Except for it's hideous
    hunger for batteries! Olympus makes a great little battery grip for their
    cameras. Why is it their flash battery "solution" (SHV-1) has to be so
    expensive? My Jacobs battery pack just ROCKS on my Vivitar 283 and at only
    $99.00 is real bargain. Alas, the 283 is a "dumb" flash and actually makes
    me use my brain. (Not that using my brain is a problem, it's just that
    automation is faster.)


    C U L8r
    JDR
     
    Flavius, Mar 28, 2005
    #5

  6. Of course, I haven't seen your particular Quantum MKZ3 battery setup, but
    have you considered not removing the door at all? In the past, I've cut a
    small hole in the edge of the door of a flash unit, just large enough to run
    the cord through, and simply closed the door over the battery insert with
    the battery pack cord running through that hole. In fact, at one time,
    Quantum even recommended that solution with some flash units.

    I've even went so far as to build my own external battery pack, consisting
    of four wooden dowels cut to the length of a battery, a cord, two screws, a
    "D" size battery holder from Radio Shack, and a case for a small camera. The
    wooden dowels are glued together in the shape of the flash battery
    compartment. Afterwards, the two screws are placed on the dowels touching
    the two battery contacts inside the flash and the cord attached to the two
    screws. Then I cut the small hole in the flash unit door to run the cord
    through. The other end of the cord is attached to the battery holder from
    Radio Shack, which is then inserted into the small camera case for a "pro"
    look, with "D" batteries added. A set of four "D" size batteries will allow
    hundreds of fast recycle, full power, flashes before fully discharged. At
    that point, they are tossed and replaced (easier then recharging and a real
    bargain compared to endless "AA" batteries).

    Stewart
     
    Dwight Stewart, Mar 28, 2005
    #6
  7. Flavius

    Flavius Guest

    Thanks for the feedback.
    The reason I went with the Quantum cable (despite the cost) is the fact it
    will "stay in" the battery compartment without the door on. I considered
    cutting the door, this is the solution I used on my Vivitar 283, but because
    of the Oly. FL-50 design the cut would interfere with using regular crv3s
    (or even, God forbid, AAs) if the need arose (broken cable, failure of the
    battery pack, etc. etc.). Having a spare door with no cut was easy with the
    Viv 283 as they are so common. If I can figure out how to remove and replace
    the FL-50 door then I could keep a spare uncut door handy, cut the other
    one, then interchange them as needed.
    BTW, valve regulated sealed lead acid batteries present less internal
    resistance than event the several D cells of other designs, thus faster
    flash recycle times. My Viv 283 can do a full charge between shots in about
    2.2 seconds.


    JDR

    <<<<< snippage
     
    Flavius, Mar 29, 2005
    #7
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