Olympus C-750 Ultra Zoom blurry shots

Discussion in 'Olympus' started by Martin Taylor, Jul 7, 2005.

  1. I'm a novice at this sort of thing, hence my post. I have the Olympus
    C-750 digital camera and am having problems with it taking action shots
    and them being blurred.

    On the mode selector there is one option for action shots. Icon
    resembles an athelete running. Despite setting that, anything moving is

    The only way, it seems, that I can take shots of any moving objects is
    if I have the flash turned on. They seem to work OK, then. But even so,
    the camera is rather slow at taking the shots, thereby negating any
    benefits in trying to take an action shot.

    I've tried "burst" mode where you can take up to 8 frames at once, but
    they're also blurred. And I've experimented with all modes.

    I'm hoping that there are some here who've used this camera and can give
    me some tips.

    Martin Taylor, Jul 7, 2005
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  2. Martin Taylor

    Ryadia Guest

    Lovely camera, terrible shutter lag makes it almost impossible to take
    action shots. As you compose the image and press the shutter, the image
    in the viewfinder freezes while the camera decides the exposure to use.

    By the time it actually makes the exposure, you or the subject have
    altered the scene. I can only imagine your courage to even attempt
    action shots with this camera.

    Ryadia, Jul 7, 2005
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  3. Martin Taylor

    dvdude Guest


    What are you shooting? Motorsport? V8s perhaps? ;)
    Try pre-focussing on the area you want to snap the photo, and then once
    it's got a focus lock, pan back to where the cars are coming from. If
    it's spontaneous shots, you're probably going to be out of luck though
    I used to use a C-700 for motorsport and did fine as long as I
    dvdude, Jul 7, 2005
  4. Martin Taylor

    Chris Baird Guest

    Try pre-focussing on the area you want to snap the photo

    Which is done by either half-pressing the shutter button beforehand to
    prepare the camera's auto-adjustments (and pushing it in all the way
    when ready to shoot), or holding the OK button in for a few seconds to
    put it into manual focus mode. There's also an auto-exposure lock
    feature on the camera, and a full range of manual settings on
    aperture/exposure (I own a C740).

    Since I also edit pictures in an image editor afterwards, I can get
    away with bumping the exposure compensation (-2.0 <-> 2.0) to make
    quick&dirty adjustments to the shutter speed.

    Basic photography: the shutter speed is the issue.
    Chris Baird, Jul 7, 2005
  5. I have/had a similar problem with my Finepix F601Z. I'm a motorcycle
    racing fan. I learnt to pan the camera with the action, resulting in
    reasonably sharp images of the bikes with nicely blurred backgrounds.
    With some practice you can get quite good at it. By following the action
    the camera's auto-focus mechanism should lock on the target - I've not
    had serious problems with focus. You do have to learn to press the
    shutter some time (about a second in my case) before you want the shot
    taken. It's a pain.... If panning isn't going to work for you, then as
    other posters have said, a fast shutter speed is required to freeze
    action, and this depends mostly on available light.

    hope this helps
    Stephen Hearn, Jul 8, 2005
  6. dvdude said....
    Close. Motorbikes, Superbikes and MotoGP mainly.

    I used to try that. I'd aim the camera at a point, say the apex of Turn
    1 at Phillip Island. I'd then press the shutter button halfway, let it
    do its stuff, then wait for the bike. As soon as it was in frame, I'd
    click it all the way. However, the result was an empty track, no bike.

    I had to try and time it to press the shutter all the way about a second
    before the bike came into frame. Unfortunately, even that was a hit and
    miss affair.

    On that particular day, I took about 43 shots, of which about 5 or 6
    were any good.

    The other night at work, I actually started to read the manual (shock,
    horror), to learn more about the different functions.

    I got a mate to wave his hands around as I took shots of him. His arms
    were blurred. I had it on the action setting. It looks like an athelete
    running on the mode selector. Didn't make any difference.

    The only way that I could get a shot where he wasn't blurred was to use
    it with the flash.

    I have an el cheapo Sony, 2.8 mp, no optical zoom, and it takes better
    action shots than this you beaut flashy Olympus. You know, given that
    Olympus makes good film cameras, you'd reckon that it could make a
    camera that outperforms a camera made by a company whose history is that
    of electronic consumer goods, not cameras.

    I bought the Olympus because at the time it was the only camera with a
    10x optical zoom, a necessity for taking shots at race tracks where you
    can't get all that close to the action.

    If anyone can recommend a camera that will perform better than this
    C-750 for fast moving object shooting, I'll flog it off on Ebay and get
    that one.
    Martin Taylor, Jul 9, 2005
  7. Martin Taylor

    Jim Vatunz Guest

    Interesting. I bought a Minolta Z1 18 months ago when i was looking
    for zoom, zoom and more zoom, and i've been pretty damned happy with
    it. I did a count the other day and i've taken >7,000 photos with it
    so far. You can't buy them anymore but i sure do respect the Minolta
    brand and would prolly consider upgrading to a Z3 or 5 for the 12x and
    image stabilisation, though we have enough light usually here in
    Australia to allow good hand held shots without it.
    If i do the half button trick on this camera, when i hit the button
    fully i get the shot i want. Straight away, no more waiting.
    Jim Vatunz, Jul 9, 2005
  8. Martin Taylor

    dvdude Guest

    Sorry Martin, but you're doing it all wrong.

    Pre-focus on the spot you want to take the pic. For example, the apex
    of T1. Hold the shutter at that halfway point, and then aim the camera
    back up the track so you can find where the bike is. Pan *with* the
    bike, keeping it in frame, and as you pass the spot where you want to
    take the photo, press the shutter fully.

    The method you're using it going to result in 95% of partial bike,
    front wheel, back wheel, empty track etc.

    Here's an example of a shot with the old C-700 (slower focus and
    shutter time than yours). Turn 1 - Eastern Creek - V8Supercar at 200kmh


    What was the lighting like when you were taking pics of your mate? It
    sounds as though the camera was using a slower shutter due to less
    light. Once you activated the flash, it could use a faster shutter, and
    thus stops the blurring. For your bike pics, you want some blurred
    background though, so I would suggest not using the Sports mode, and
    switching to Shutter Priority Mode (I can't remember what the setting
    is as I've lent my Olympus out). Set the shutter speed to 1/250 and let
    the camera do the rest. Use the technique I mentioned above and you'll
    start getting some good results.
    dvdude, Jul 9, 2005
  9. Martin Taylor

    Phred Guest

    G'day mate,

    Well I looked at that image, and the three following images before I
    got bored. Nice shots of cars, mate, but bugger all of interest apart
    from that. Even the "blurred background", if that's what it was,
    could just as easily have been a static backdrop.

    There was no sense of "place" or action, just a series of car
    "portraits" so to speak. Maybe I should have looked further? But, as
    I said, I got bored. Perhaps I get bored too easily?

    But thanks anyway, for the tips about using those useless digicams to
    at least capture an image in such circumstances! :)
    Cheers, Phred.
    Phred, Jul 9, 2005
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