photography at the time of overcast/cloud

Discussion in 'Photography' started by bnrj.rudra, May 24, 2013.

  1. bnrj.rudra

    bnrj.rudra Guest

    Hi Friends,
    I have a Nikon P510 camera.
    I will visit London very soon. Given the weather condition of London, how should I set my camera? There is a manual mode, where I can set app, flash etc.
    So kindly help/
    bnrj.rudra, May 24, 2013
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  2. bnrj.rudra

    philo  Guest

    Clouds can diffuse light and actually be good for photography.

    Automatic setting may very well suffice.
    philo , May 25, 2013
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  3. bnrj.rudra

    Chemiker Guest

    The easiest way to do this, IMO, is to take your camera out locally on
    such a day and take a few shots. For the P510, you might want to use
    ISO 200 or less to avoid noise. I personally would first try setting
    Auto with spot metering, and then taking your metering measurement on
    a darker cloud or object that you want to be about 17% reflective, or
    Zone 3 or 4, as you prefer. Tree trunks are a good thing to use as a
    target, even better is a set of B/W color standard cards in your
    pocket. Half press and then lock, if that camera allows AF when
    metering is locked. When you find a pic you like, check the exif data
    for shutter speed and f stop. Write these down and set manually as
    needed or set up U1 or U1 with the custom settings. If you don't find
    something you like, set your metering to Center Weighted and do over.

    Recall that if you're shooting a great distances, you might want to
    have U1 or U2 setup with Vivid on color and extra Sharpening to offset
    the inevitable haze. That's a versatile camera so you should be able
    to set up a profile that meets your needs. If you have a grey scale or
    test chart, the setup is even easier. The Zone system is helpful to
    understand proper metering. See Wikipedia Zone System Photography for
    a good workup on the subject.
    Chemiker, May 25, 2013
  4. Since you need to ask this question, your best bet is to
    leave the camera on automatic and solely concentrate on good
    composition and good timing. Being on a visit where you want
    to return with some good photos is emphatically NOT the time
    to try settings you are not used to already. Modern cameras
    do almost always get it right or nearly right for the average
    case --- which you'll be shooting.

    Manual mode will just cause your images to be broken in many
    ways (blurry, overexposed, underexposed, grainy), as you have no
    experience with it --- and there simply isn't a single manual
    setting that works everywhere, not even when you're outside,
    during the day and it's evenly cloudy.

    Do chimp (i.e. look at the photo you just took) --- retake it
    with different settings (exposure compensation!) if it's not
    good enough. That way you find out your shot of the Tower is
    broken before you return home ...

    However, you can take a few hours here and there and go
    out wherever you live and play with the settings of your
    camera and see what happens. You won't get any good photos,
    but you'll start understanding your camera and the general
    connections between LV (how bright it is), ISO, exposure time,
    aperture; exposure time and camera shake & image stabilisation;
    exposure time and camera shake and focal length ('zoomed in'
    or 'zoomed out'), manual white balance and the real colour of
    the light (the eye is tricked into seeing everything as white,
    but that does not work when the camera is recording an image),
    perspecive (zooming in versus stepping closer), deliberate
    'over-exposing' for back-lit situations and so on and so on.

    Wolfgang Weisselberg, May 25, 2013

  5. I don't understand white balance. I know only the very basics
    (aperture, focal length, shutter speed....).

    What does adjusting white balance do?

    Apologies, as I guess you get irritating questions from beginners, but
    pointing me to a website with a simple, layman's explanation would be
    most welcome. Google isn't always the novice's friend, and it's blocked
    more often than not. Even with a proxy it's a battle.
    PAUL {HAMILTON} ROONEY, May 26, 2013
  6. bnrj.rudra

    Savageduck Guest

    White Balance (WB) adjusts the temperature of your image under
    different light conditions. You will have a different WB when shooting
    in bright daylight, shade, cloud cover/overcast, various indoor
    lighting situations, and flash. Correct WB is essential when it comes
    to getting good color balance.

    When I talk of temperature there are measurable ranges of light
    temperature, but at this stage it is probably easier to think of warm
    as imposing a "red" coloration, and cool a "blue". There are other hue
    and color effects which are related to WB, but for your current
    purposes I would not over concern yourself with them.

    Many folks will use a WB card or other tools for a reference shot and
    then correct WB in post processing. I use a WhiBal card, there are some
    good videos on their site which explain and demonstrate how WB effects
    < >

    Modern digital cameras do a pretty good job of handling WB with "Auto
    WB", and I suggest for now, that you use "Auto WB" for most of your

    Here are a few things/places for you to check out:
    < >
    < >

    ....and Scott Kelby's "Digital Photography" available at decent prices
    from Amazon.
    < >
    Savageduck, May 26, 2013
  7. bnrj.rudra

    Joel Guest

    If the Nikon P510 is a DSLR then most of the time it often depend on the
    combination of the LENS, WB, and the color temperature setting. And
    sometime some MODEL of the camera may do weird thing.

    If the Nikon P510 is a P&S camera then normally P&S camera does pretty
    good job with Full Autimatic or Semi-Automatic, and they don't do very well
    with manual comparing to DSLR. I would say something like P mode usually
    work well for most P&S photographers.
    Joel, May 27, 2013
  8. bnrj.rudra

    Chemiker Guest

    The P510 is a P&S, a descendent of the P90. Not bad, extreme zoom
    range,, but noisy starting at ISO 800. There are choices for WB in the
    menu, but I don't know if the P510 offer bright sun/shade/cloudy as
    options. My P90 did offer "custom" for use with a WB card.

    And, turn bracketing ON. Memory is cheap. You can separate the sheep
    from the goats later. When I travel, I always take a laptop and every
    evening I empty the camera memory chip onto both the laptop and a
    thumb drive. Just good insurance.
    Chemiker, May 27, 2013
  9. bnrj.rudra

    Chemiker Guest

    Checked on a review of the P510.... it does offer WB settings for
    daylight and cloudy, but not shade. Custom WB is still available.

    Of course the OP might want to try the sunny-16 rule, seen here:

    In overcast, exposure setting would be 1/ISO @ f/8. Print it out, use
    it and bracket.
    Chemiker, May 28, 2013
  10. The digital equivalent to
    Daylight film or tungsten film?
    Warming filter or cooling filter, and how strong?
    Make images look right, even if shot in candle light (very
    reddish, low black body temperature[1]) or in open shade with
    lots of deep blue sky (very blueish, high black body
    temperature). Otherwise the candle shot will be way too red
    and the open shade shot will be tinted blue --- which looks
    strange on faces and wedding dresses.

    Leave it on auto unless and until:
    - you shoot RAW or RAW + JPEG (then you can adjust the RAW's
    white balance in postprocessing losslessly after the fact)
    - you have become proficient in knowing how to set it and
    don't forget to change it when needed
    - the light does not change and you absolutely *need* a
    series of images to have the same colour (this actually
    made me use RAW, even though that means post processing)
    The Great Firewall of China?

    There are other search engines ...


    Wolfgang Weisselberg, May 28, 2013
  11. bnrj.rudra

    Joel Guest

    If it's P&S then you may wanna stick with the semi-automatic like P mode
    or similar (Nikon may have different option) cuz most P&S camera don't have
    true Manual mode like DLSR camera, and they handle the Auto mode quite nice.

    It's sure nice to have long zoom, but there is a price you have to pay for
    using the option. Or you will have to sacrify the quality for the long zoom

    When you use the semi-automatic (like P for example) the camera gives you
    the option to set the ISO and it does the rest. Another semi-automatic lets
    you control the Aperture or Shutter Speed then the camera calculates the
    other. Example

    - if you control the Aperture then the camera calculate the Shutter

    - If you control the Shutter Speed then the camera calculate the Aperture

    And those 2 options are real handy for outdoor (I do most of my photograph
    indoor). BTW, those 2 options above allows you to control the ISO too. So

    - P Mode - You control the ISO and the camera calculates the Aperture and
    Shutter Speed

    - The other 2 modes - you control the ISO and either Aperture/Shutter then
    the camera calculates the other (Aperture or Shutter)
    That was what I did when memory card was small, I carried TWO portable
    storage devices to transfer the photo to the storages. Now the meory card
    is getting larger and cheaper, I use 32G and 64G memory cards.
    Joel, May 31, 2013
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