Recommendations for Nikon Point and Shoot?

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by Andrew McCall, Jun 29, 2004.

  1. Hi Folks,

    Its been a while since I last posted here, so I hope you are all keeping

    I have got to the stage in photography were I am finding I want to keep
    a camera on me at all times. My darkroom is nearly complete, and with
    the limited time I have on my hands I don't often get the opportunity to
    lug my tripod, FM2 and assortment of lenses out very often, so working
    on the same negatives all the time is beginning to be a bit of a pain.

    After reading something on, I thought it would be a good idea
    to get a cheap-ish point and shoot camera that I can keep with me all
    the time, this way I can shoot a film a day and maybe get one or two
    shots that have potential then I can work with them in my darkroom or go
    back and get a proper shot with my Nikon (I realise sometimes this won't
    be possible).

    Try to think of this camera more of a sketch-pad for ideas, rather than
    a replacement for my main set up.

    So, on to my question! Can anyone here recommend a Nikon point and
    shoot 35mm camera? When researching to get my first camera, the Nikon
    FM2 or the Cannon Rebel seemed to be the generic answer, is there.

    It would be great if the camera had things like aperture priority, or a
    manual mode, but with this camera size and cost is the most important
    factor - I want to carry it around everywhere, and I don't want to be
    too annoyed if I break or loose it.

    Any suggestions?


    Andrew McCall
    Andrew McCall, Jun 29, 2004
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  2. Andrew McCall

    ink Guest

    Hi Andrew,

    I don't know if this is for you, but I was in a similar situation. What
    I did was not buying a new camera, but I put the 45mm 2.8P
    lens on the FM2 (FM2n in my case), which keeps it nice and small.

    Just my 2c.

    ink, Jun 29, 2004
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  3. I had thought about doing something like this, but its not really going
    to work. I need to keep my FM2 (FM2n in my case also!) for any "real"
    photography work, and college courses I go on, so its not the sort of
    thing I want to carry around with me in the pub, or sat on in the cinema.

    In any case, even with a ~50mm lense, its still too big and heavy!


    Andrew McCall
    Andrew McCall, Jun 29, 2004
  4. Andrew McCall wrote:


    I have done a bit more research on this topic, and it may not be a Nikon
    that I want - would a Yashica T4 or a Ricoh GR1 be suited to this
    (although the Ricoh seems way out of my price range!)? What do people
    think of these cameras? Is there an equivilent Nikon?


    Andrew McCall
    Andrew McCall, Jun 29, 2004
  5. Andrew McCall

    Jeremy Guest

    It sounds like a wide range of P&S cameras would meet your needs.

    I have a Nikon Lite-Touch 140, with a zoom range of 38-140mm, which I
    purchased when it first appeared, at a price of US$229. I bought it because
    of two features: the clamshell design, which I find quite functional, and
    the low ED glass element in the zoom lens.

    I detect more sharpness and contrast in my other P&S--an Olympus Infinity
    Stylus (the original stylus, with the f/3.5 fixed lens). But that camera
    does not have a zoom lens, and thus has some limitations in terms of focal

    I found your statement about not always being able to carry your SLR gear
    around to be right on-target. I feel the same way. The more "stuff" we
    accumulate, the more complicated it becomes deciding what to
    take--especially when we are going out for some purpose other than taking

    The other limiting factor, for me, is that I don't often shoot a whole roll
    in a single session. So I have found myself using my digital camera more
    than my film P&S cameras. And I find that I can achieve better overall
    results than I get with film, because I can edit the shot myself rather than
    have Kodak do a machine print from a negative. The post-shot editing can be
    a pain when there are a large number of images involved, but for my typical
    5 or 6 images per session, it takes about 45 minutes to edit and tweak
    them--less time than it would take me to fill out the processing envelope
    and drive to the processor.

    For me, digital has been an empowering factor. Small, lightweight camera,
    no need to take extra shots just to fill up a roll of film, no need to drop
    off and pick up film. Great when you just want to take a camera along
    without knowing in advance if you will take any photos.

    Biggest negative for all P&S, film and digital, is that they don't offer you
    the control that a nice manual SLR does, especially in terms of depth of
    field. As with everything photographic, it is a trade off between
    convenience and quality.
    Jeremy, Jun 29, 2004
  6. Andrew McCall

    Sabineellen Guest

    I have got to the stage in photography were I am finding I want to keep

    Hi Andrew... This topic is close to my heart, i've been collecting quite a few
    lately and I can tell you about them...

    See some of the items in my collection (I have more)

    I'll summarize your points..

    1 - cost and size are the most important factors
    2 - would be great to have aperture priority or manual mode
    3 - won't be too annoyed if you break or lose it

    As for cost or size but *no* manual override (though you can control autofocus
    and exposure with spot-focus and spot-metering), and you won't be too annoyed
    if you break or lose it.... I recommend the olympus stylus epic (mju-ii) and
    the fuji (silvi) datezoom f2.8... both are in current production and are
    reasonably priced so breaking or losing them won't be a concern, and their
    optics are above the rest... the fuji datezoom has the advantage of a zoom
    24-50mm and 2.8 at 24mm. The olympus stylus epic has the (?dis)advantage of a
    fixed 35mm lens - some prefer fixed lenses, others welcome zoom.

    If you want aperture priority or manual mode, i can't think of any in current
    production that are inexpensive and that I personally won't be heartbroken if i
    break or lose one of them (if it's a good specimen), but if all you want to use
    it for is as a sketch pad then I'd recommend either one of two that you'll more
    commonly find... An olympus XA or a Minox 35... the olympus XA has less sharp
    lens but takes wonderful low light images (there's something about the exposure
    and the contrast of that zuiko lens), The Minox has a very sharp lens and the
    wonderful advantage in recent models (don't know about old ones) of having a
    guide scale on the aperture and focus dial that enables you to know what depth
    of field will be covered by a certain aperture setting. With the minox though
    you'd have to scale focus which won't be a problem in daylight (could even be
    an advantage) but could be tricky if you photograph people at short distance in
    low light and want to use wide aperture, whereas the olymps xa you have
    rangefinder focusing. The olympus XA's aperture runs from 2.8 to 22 in full
    steps, whereas the minox is 2.8 to 16 *continuous*. If i find a good specimen
    and break or lose it i'd be a little upset, but both can be find easily though
    on ebay so replacement shouldn't be a problem for years to come. The Minox
    GT-S/E will cost twice as much as the Olympus XA, older minoxes will be roughly
    equivalent (to the XA, though reported less durable). With the Minox GT-E or
    the Olympus XA you can vary the ASA to override aperture-priority exposure.

    With some of those cameras above (the Minox for sure) you'll take wonderful
    images that you may not even need to try again on your SLR.

    Other cameras that could be mentioned are the ricoh ff-1 (i have one, a little
    bigger than either, essentially a minox imitation), can be had for very cheap,
    not easily found though, i have one and don't plan on keeping it.

    One that can be had for cheap too but is wonderful, though bigger than either
    is an Olympus RC. It's a rangefinder though with reportedly wonderful optics.
    It allows full manual override as it's fully mechanical, and unless you find
    suitable battery replacement it will only be mechanical. It's not really as
    pocketable though so you may have to consider how you want to carry it. Again
    it'll be comparable to your Nikon if you find one (i have seen usenet test
    reports saying that a Minox or olympus RC performed as well as a nikon SLR
    especially around f8).

    The rollei 35 faimly and the rollei afm35, the contax t1-3, the ricoh GR
    family, the leica minilux are all expensive.
    Sabineellen, Jun 29, 2004

  7. This month, Popular Photography has an article about great cameras
    under $100. Turns out, I own two of the three they recommend. A Nikon
    One Touch 90s lives in my glovebox, and an Olympus Infinity Stylus Epic
    stays in the little pouch under my bicycle seat.

    Of the two, I kind of like the Olympus better, as it's small,
    splashproof, and is optically excellent. it's also faster to operate.

    The Nikon DOES have a short zoom lens, though...
    Scott Schuckert, Jun 30, 2004
  8. Andrew McCall

    Gordon Moat Guest

    The Nikon 35Ti was a fairly nice point and shoot camera. Unfortunately,
    these are only available used, and often at somewhat high prices. You might
    want to search EBAY, and just check on these.
    Okay, slightly newer P&S film cameras can allow some user controls, like
    aperture priority. Generally, the fixed focal length lens cameras are
    slightly better optically. Look into the Contax T3, Rollei AFM35, and older
    Yashica T4 Super. Others to consider are various Olympus XA or Stylus
    models, or the new Yashica T4 Zoom.

    Of all these, the Contax T3 is the highest price, though very good quality.
    It is unfortunate that for only a little more money, you could get into a
    used Contax G1 or G2, which are nice compact autofocus cameras, with
    changeable lenses.

    Tough to find lens data on P&S cameras, though I found this for the Rollei

    <> Scroll down for MTF chart.

    You could also look into much older 1970s era rangefinders. Many will be
    nearly the size of your FM2, though the lenses are generally good under low
    light conditions, especially many that are f1.8 or f1.7 aperture. Most did
    not have a flash built in, which would be a benefit or more modern P&S

    <> Coming Soon!
    Gordon Moat, Jul 1, 2004
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