Remove filter when shooting flash indoors?

Discussion in 'Digital Cameras' started by johnpower, Jul 17, 2003.

  1. johnpower

    johnpower Guest

    I took some indoor flash photos with my 10D tonight. The camera set
    the exposure at 1/60 F 4.0 as it always does and I was shooting with a
    24-70 L2.8. I was not too happy with a number of the shots in that
    many had very dark backgrounds as if my 420 EX did not illuminate
    scene properly. The lens had a skylight filter on it. Could that
    have caused an exposure problem in this situation?

    Here is an example photo:

    http://www.pbase.com/image/19189565/large

    I guess asked another way, should filters be removed for indoor flash
    shooting?
     
    johnpower, Jul 17, 2003
    #1
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  2. johnpower

    johnpower Guest

    Thanks for the comment. I did have the flash angled up to bounce off
    the white ceiling.

    Interestingly enough, some came out much better illuminated. Here is
    an example:
    http://www.pbase.com/image/19190465

    and that is what confused me. When I get an exposure like this and
    then one like the other from the same settings on the same camera I am
    puzzled
     
    johnpower, Jul 17, 2003
    #2
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  3. johnpower

    Todd Walker Guest

    That doesn't look bad at all. A quick and dirty edit gave me this:

    http://twalker.d2g.com/forweb/johnpower_redo.jpg

    Spending a little more time with the edits, I could have avoided blowing
    out the highlights in the cake, but you get the idea. I have found with
    my E20 that the TTL flash (FL40) sometimes causes inconsistent exposures
    like you are describing. Are you using the 420/550EX on your 10D? If so,
    that may be the cause. The camera meters based on a reading of 18% grey
    and will quench the flash differently depending on the makeup of the
    scene. A non-TTL unit will give more consistent exposures given the same
    scene (taking one photo after another of the same scene for instance,)
    but isn't as dependable overall because you have to remember to set the
    flash to match your camera settings.

    --
    ________________________________
    Todd Walker
    http://twalker.d2g.com
    Olympus E20
    Canon G2
    My Digital Photography Weblog:
    http://twalker.d2g.com/dpblog.htm
    _________________________________
     
    Todd Walker, Jul 17, 2003
    #3
  4. johnpower

    Lionel Guest

    The lighting looks quite good for a flash shot, especially if it's the
    inbuilt flash. The image does seem kind of soft for that lens though. I
    would've used a 50mm 1.8 at about 2.8 or so for that shot, myself.
    Skylight filters? - I always leave them on, myself.
     
    Lionel, Jul 17, 2003
    #4
  5. johnpower

    johnpower Guest

    Thanks for your efforts and comments Todd. I just felt that there was
    quite a difference between the one you fixed and this one

    http://www.pbase.com/image/19190465

    and so I thought maybe the flash wasn't working quite right. I will
    say that for some of the photos I was backed rather deeply into a
    small hallway. I do not know if this would have affected the camera's
    ability to gather light even with the flash...
     
    johnpower, Jul 17, 2003
    #5
  6. johnpower

    johnpower Guest

    10D images are known for their softness. However, being rather new at
    this I have no frame of reference as to what looks "right" or "not
    right" as to issues like this so I just have to assume that all of my
    stuff is working as it is supposed to...I would like to find another
    10D owner in my town to get together with and compare identical shots.
     
    johnpower, Jul 17, 2003
    #6
  7. johnpower

    Paul Worden Guest

    If you want to see what difference the surroundings make to a flash shot,
    take a photograph of someone outdoors (at night) with direct flash and then
    the same shot indoors. Harsh versus incidental reflected fill.

    Even moving a few feet in a room can present completely different reflecting
    surfaces. Outside there is no fill from surfaces and the shots need more
    exposure and are very harsh. At least two stops extra for outdoor shots and
    you can't bounce it off the sky....

    The colour of the walls/ceilings also has a noticeable effect on the light.
    When you add in the various colour temperatures of indoor lighting, you can
    see how complicated the whole subject is.

    You got the shot and that's what counts. The second example is excellent -
    but it's at a different angle, so the flash will have reflected from
    different surfaces and that explains the difference.

    One of the 'tricks of the trade' is to replace the light globe with one of
    low wattage when it's going to be 'in shot' and too bright. The beauty of
    digital is that you can see the results immediately and work around it.
    I don't know about you though...I don't usually carry a pocket full of
    globes for a birthday party....

    Paul W
     
    Paul Worden, Jul 17, 2003
    #7
  8. johnpower

    Browntimdc Guest

    wrote in
    The back wall is much closer to the subject in the second shot. That's
    why it's brighter.

    Tim
     
    Browntimdc, Jul 17, 2003
    #8
  9. johnpower

    Lionel Guest

    Well, I have one myself, & it'll do a much sharper shot than that.
     
    Lionel, Jul 18, 2003
    #9
  10. johnpower

    johnpower Guest

    Why don't you post one right out of the camera taken with a zoom lens
    as opposed to a prime. I don't know anyone in this town with a 10D so
    I have nothing to compare mine with. All I know is that the initial
    softness of a 10D image is referenced over and over in many forums as
    the norm. I have found that a little USM can take care of this.
     
    johnpower, Jul 18, 2003
    #10
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