removing the dusts for less than 3 euros/dollars

Discussion in 'Digital SLR' started by JD, May 25, 2005.

  1. JD

    JD Guest

    JD, May 25, 2005
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  2. JD

    Paul Mitchum Guest

    Paul Mitchum, May 25, 2005
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  3. JD

    eawckyegcy Guest

    eawckyegcy, May 25, 2005
  4. JD

    Alan Browne Guest

    Quite clever. I'll wait for a few dozen testers first!

    Alan Browne, May 25, 2005
  5. JD

    Paul Mitchum Guest

    I was thinking about that, and I remember there used to be ionizer
    'guns' for cleaning LP records. I wonder if any of those are still
    Paul Mitchum, May 25, 2005
  6. The most well-known of these was the DiscWasher ZeroStat, the one made
    with a red plastic pistol grip. I still have one.

    Static neutralizing guns have been in use for many years by darkroom
    workers, for cleaning negs and slides. The principle is sound, but it's
    not a panacea. Some dust particles adhere by mechanical or chemical
    effects, and reducing static charge does not help to release them.

    I would also be concerned about using a static gun very close to a
    CMOS/CCD sensor. If the device arced to the camera, or released a
    strong unbalanced current of ions, the delicate structures on the chip
    could be damaged.
    Julian Vrieslander, May 26, 2005
  7. JD

    RichA Guest

    Some of those brushes used polonium, a radioactive source to ionize
    the dust and make it lose it's static charge. They'd be safe, better
    than something with an electric field anyway.
    RichA, May 26, 2005
  8. JD

    Alan Browne Guest

    This is also my main concern with the technique. I'll let others try it
    for a few years first!

    Alan Browne, May 26, 2005
  9. JD

    JD Guest

    I don't think that there can be any arcing: remember, you have completely
    removed one of the wires.
    Further than that, you hold the device about 5 to 10 cm *in front* of the
    camera, not *in* the camera.

    Anyway, I tried and everything is fine. In fact, I used it before cleaning
    the sensor. I also used a pressure gun (with moderate pressure) to dislodge
    the would be last particles of dust (yes, I'm a bit of a kamikaze). And
    now, I have a spotless image on my camera.

    I think we have to be both reasonable and practical: my alternative was to
    send my camera to have it cleaned (lots of ??? and 2-3 weeks waiting time).
    Now I know how to do it and I can fix it anytime.

    And oh, I forgot: I also removed the frosted glass because there was some
    yuck lodged behind it. In fact, I did it before the sensor cleaning
    operation as a warm up exercise.


    JD, May 26, 2005
  10. JD

    Alan Browne Guest

    I realize that. I'm just concerned about the effects at the surface of
    the sensor. If the technique is sufficient to cancel/neutralize the
    static bond at the surface, then what else is it strong enough to do?
    I agree on reasonable and practical. As another poster stated, there
    is also the issue of dust stuck by humidity or other means, and the ion
    gun won't do it for that...

    I'll wait for a larger return of repeated uses of the electrostatic

    Alan Browne, May 26, 2005
  11. JD

    Bubbabob Guest

    The Polonium brushes used animal hair which will leave sleeks all over your
    sensor. You only want to use a synthetic brush on a sensor.
    Bubbabob, May 26, 2005
  12. JD

    JD Guest

    As another poster stated, there is also the issue of dust stuck by
    This is correct, and I had to cleaned the sensor with pecpad and fluid to
    get it perfect. I think the gun must/can be used before pecpads to make the
    opertion more "sterile".
    JD, May 26, 2005
  13. JD

    Bubbabob Guest

    The ions are hitting a niobium glass filter rather than the sensor. This
    should effectively insulate the sensor from the ion stream.
    Bubbabob, May 26, 2005
  14. JD

    Alan Browne Guest

    At that point, I doubt there's much improvement in doing a static pass
    before doing a wipe pass.

    Alan Browne, May 26, 2005
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