Scanning slides when an 81B filter was on the lens

Discussion in '35mm Cameras' started by Marco Cinnirella, Aug 14, 2003.

  1. Hi all,

    I like to use an 81b warm-up filter when shooting slide film. I then
    scan the slides using a Scan Dual 2 and manipulate the scanned images in
    Photoshop.

    Almost all of the books about scanning and Photoshop suggest that a
    Levels adjustment is pretty much essential after a scan, and this does
    indeed improve contrast and colour in the image. However, whenever I
    perform a 'textbook' levels adjustment, this seems ro reduce the
    slightly warm yellow-red cast that was deliberately introduced by my use
    of the 81B filter on the lens. I was wondering if anyone had any advice
    on how to scan and adjust slides when this kind of filter has been used,
    in such a way as to retain the effect of the filter? I'm sure there's a
    way to mimic the 81B in Photoshop, but at the moment I like to keep that
    filter on my lens to protect the front element, so I'd rather keep the
    'natural' effect of the filter, as opposed to trying to recreate it
    within Photoshop.

    Any advice welcome!

    Marco
     
    Marco Cinnirella, Aug 14, 2003
    #1
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  2. I seldom like the "standard" adjustments that software does, after all
    those are nothing more than someone else's choices, not mine. You should
    consider doing a little tweaking of the software to make it conform to your
    artistic goals. Sorry I don't know your software enough to tell you how.

    I would guess it is wrong, but it sounds like you are using the warming
    filter to protect your lens and primarily because of that, you want the
    warmer images. I assume that is not want you meant to say.

    BTW I often like my photos a little warmer than most people. It is a
    part of my personal style just as it appears to be part of yours.
     
    Joseph Meehan, Aug 14, 2003
    #2
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  3. I too like a slightly warm image, especially with landscapes and most
    kinds of travel photography, which is indeed why I use the 81B. My point
    about keeping a filter on the lens to protect the front element was a
    bit misleading - I could have chosen any filter to do that, but I chose
    the 81B because I like the warming effect and want to keep its effect in
    my scanned images.

    Marco
     
    Marco Cinnirella, Aug 14, 2003
    #3
  4. Marco Cinnirella

    Gordon Moat Guest

    If that is the Minolta scanner, using the manual settings to adjust colour
    and contrast in the scanner settings when doing the capture. Get the most
    information, and best settings, before the image is in PhotoShop.
    You could just do curves. Another way to approach it is to only adjust the
    levels of one, or two, channels, rather than the entire image. Sometimes
    that approach can work better in LaB mode, or CMYK, but it depends upon the
    image.
    Assuming that your monitor is somewhat adjusted to be colour accurate for
    your printed output, there are a few things you can do. Using the
    Hue/Saturation adjustment can retain, or enhance colour. You need to be
    careful that your adjustments do not exceed the printing gamut, or clipping
    will result. This is one adjustment that sometimes works better when only
    one colour range is adjusted, rather than doing the entire image.
    Recreating that in PhotoShop just never looks very realistic, since it
    takes more than one adjustment. While it could be done, it would likely
    take much more time to do effectively.
    PhotoShop takes lots of time and experience. There are rarely any settings
    that really work well for every image. The best results are often obtained
    with the least adjustments necessary, and while in the highest bit mode.
    Many adjustments are only available at the lower bit depth setting, which
    means some colour information is discarded prior to those adjustments.

    Understand how your printed output relates to your scans. Talk to your
    printer about total ink limits, and whether UCR, or GCR, is being used when
    colours go out of gamut. Start with the best scan possible given the time
    you will have to prepare each image for printing.

    Ciao!

    Gordon Moat
    Alliance Graphique Studio
    <http://www.allgstudio.com>
     
    Gordon Moat, Aug 14, 2003
    #4
  5. Marco Cinnirella

    Tony Spadaro Guest

    Tony Spadaro, Aug 14, 2003
    #5
  6. Marco Cinnirella

    NickC Guest

    I like my photo's to be slightly on the warm side too therefor I use
    the the 81B filter for those shots where the warm effect is what I
    want. If you don't change anything when making a scan, what you scan
    is what's on the slide/negative. I assume when you say "textbook"
    you're using the auto level adjustments and letting the program decide
    what's best for your photo. Don't use auto adjustments for color when
    using filters other than UV, Haze, or Polarizer's.

    Generally, you will be able to resolve many of your problems by just
    following (or using) this procedure. Do not deviate from the order it
    is presented.

    1- Levels

    2- Curves

    3- Color Balance

    4- Hue/Saturation

    Though it appears to be basic (and to some degree it is), by following
    this procedure you will do well and be able to retain the warmness
    that you want in your photo's.

    Nick
     
    NickC, Aug 14, 2003
    #6
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